Valbona Pass stands at 1,795 metres above sea level and offers stunning views over the jagged peaks of Thethi National Park. For many travellers, the pass marks the halfway point in the famous Theth to Valbona hike. However, for those who do not want to travel onwards to Valbona, you can hike to the pass and return straight to Theth. We did this in May 2022, and we would recommend it. Here’s our guide to the day hike from Theth to Valbona Pass.
How far is the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass?
The official trail from Theth to Valbona Pass is between 5km and 6km, depending on where in Theth you start. Based on how much exploring you do along the way – particularly in the alpine meadow and woodland sections – you may end up hiking slightly further.
The hike’s total distance, including the return to Theth, is roughly 12km.
How long will the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass take?
The ascent to Valbona Pass from Theth should take between 2.5 and 3.5 hours, depending on your pace. The descent from Valbona Pass to Theth should be slightly quicker – perhaps 2 to 3 hours.
In total, we would recommend budgeting 6 to 8 hours for the whole hike. This gives enough time for breaks, including a lunch stop whilst admiring the views from the top of the pass.
How difficult is the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass?
The difficulty of the hike depends mainly on your fitness levels. If you are reasonably fit and have experience of hiking in mountainous terrain, this is not a particularly challenging hike and should be considered one of the best things to do in Theth.
However, with a thousand metres of ascent and descent, it is not to be underestimated. You will find it a much more challenging prospect if you are unfit or not used to hiking up and down hills.
In good summer conditions, there are no technically difficult sections of the hike. The path is – for the most part – well maintained and more than suitable for most hiking shoes. There is minimal exposure except for a few steep drops at or near the top of the pass, which you can easily avoid.
Furthermore, the trail is well signposted, and during peak season there will be a steady stream of fellow hikers who can point you in the right direction. If you stick to the signposted trails, wear appropriate clothing and footwear, and are reasonably fit, the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass will be a great adventure.
What to wear for the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass
So, you’ve packed your bag and are ready to go. Before you throw that rucksack on and head out the door, you should consider whether you are wearing suitable kit to tackle the hike. You don’t want to emulate the couple we saw who had just tried crossing a steep snow patch in jeans and sandals on their way up from Valbona.
If like most people, you’re hiking to Valbona Pass during the main summer season, we would suggest setting off wearing the following:
- Lightweight hiking trousers or shorts. Unless you’ve got unlucky with the weather, there is no need to wear heavy waterproof trousers. Keep it light and cool.
- A lightweight, breathable base layer. As with the trousers or shorts, you will want to be wearing a top that can help keep you cool as you work up a sweat on the trail.
- A hat or cap. Something that will keep your head in the shade is a great idea. The sun can be bright and deceptively powerful, particularly the higher you go.
- Sunglasses. As with the hat or cap, sunglasses will be handy on a bright summer’s day.
- Hiking socks. Good-quality hiking socks will be invaluable when avoiding those dreaded blisters.
- Sturdy hiking shoes or boots. Whether you prefer shoes or full-on boots, make sure that your footwear is sturdy enough to handle the steep, rocky trails. If you own both hiking shoes and boots, we would suggest shoes – again, keep things as lightweight as possible.
What to pack for the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass
The hike from Theth to Valbona Pass is not to be underestimated. The rewards are immense, with sublime views across the peaks of the Albanian Alps, but you must be prepared to put in the effort to get there.
The hike to Valbona Pass requires a good level of fitness and an appropriate level of planning. Preparing the right gear and supplies for the day is essential to this planning.
We did the hike in May 2022, setting off on a warm, sunny morning. In our day-packs, we included the following essentials:
- Two litres of water each. This should be a minimum, particularly if a hot day is forecast.
- A spare warm layer. With a thousand metres of ascent, you can expect the temperatures at the pass to be noticeably cooler than in the valley.
- A lightweight waterproof jacket. It may be sunny when you set off, but the weather can change quickly in the mountains. We took our lightweight Mac in a Sac jackets along – and we needed them!
- A packed lunch and snacks. Because there’s nothing worse than realising you’re starving halfway up a mountain.
- A small first aid kit. We packed a few blister plasters, antiseptic wipes, and small bandages. You never know when you might need them. You should include a small bottle of sun cream in your kit.
Along with the essentials, there are a few more items that would be useful for the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass:
- Hiking Poles. Do not underestimate the impact of using poles – they can save your knees!
- Camera Gear. To capture all those immense views of the Albanian Alps.
- Portable phone charger. The Anker Power Bank is perhaps the most useful piece of kit we’ve bought for our travels. Invaluable.
When is the best time of year to do the Theth to Valbona Pass hike?
The main summer season is, without a doubt, the best time of year for the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass. Indeed, the trail is usually only open during the summer months to ensure safe conditions for visitors.
It is worth noting that hiking at the height of summer can be miserable – and dangerous – in sweltering temperatures. If the forecast is for a hot day, you should consider leaving as early as possible in the morning to avoid the worst of the heat.
It will be a very different prospect if you are looking to tackle the hike in winter conditions. We would not recommend attempting this, as Valbona Pass will be covered in thick snow and ice, making the trail practically impassable. The pass will be officially closed during winter.
Theth to Valbona Pass should be considered a summer hike only.
What wildlife can I see on the trails around Theth?
Theth National Park is blessed with an abundance of wildlife.
Birdwatchers can enjoy dozens of different species of nesting and migratory birds, including magnificent eagles and the ever-charming woodpecker.
Reptiles can be found in abundance through the national park. Indeed, during our two days in Theth, we encountered several European Green Lizards hiding in plain sight in the fields around the village.
We also had a close encounter with the Nose-Horned Viper, purported to be Europe’s most dangerous snake. Caution should be taken when stepping off the path and into long grass or shrubbery.
A wide range of interesting mammals live in the national park. The most exciting of these include elusive wolves and lynx.
There is a small population of European Brown Bears in Theth National Park. It is unlikely that visitors to Theth will encounter a bear, particularly on the hike to Valbona Pass. Nonetheless, the usual precautions should be taken – particularly among those who choose to camp.
Step by Step Route Guide – Theth to Valbona Pass Hike
Finding the start of the trail to Valbona Pass
If you ask a local where the trail from Theth to Valbona Pass starts, they will point you north out of the main village.
Depending on where you are staying, the first landmark to look for is the Thethi National Park information centre. This small single-storey building stands next to the main bridge over the river. You should hike past the bridge, keeping the river to your left.
Following the road, you will shortly reach Bar Restaurant Jezerca and the small village shop. Continue past the shop. At the time of writing, this area was being redeveloped by a small army of diggers and workers. However, the route should be reasonably obvious, as you keep a bank of trees and shrubs to your right whilst following the gravel track.
Before long, you will cross a river and head into a small area of woodland. The next landmark you aim for is a small cafe, marked on Google Maps as Bar Kafe Kodra.
Along the way, there is a fork in the track. The official trail follows the small trail leading off to the right. It is marked by a stone painted in red and white stripes. This symbol is used on all waymarkers along the route.
Once you reach the cafe, you will see a signpost pointing you to Valbona. I would consider this the ‘official’ start of the trail from Theth to Valbona.
The ascent from Theth begins
Follow the directions of the signpost at the cafe. You will turn right and start the first section of ascent as you track alongside a mountain stream, eventually crossing via a small wooden bridge.
This is the beginning of a short stretch of zig-zags. The path winds its way up through the woods, passing a small collection of isolated houses and offering enticing glimpses of the scenery at each turn.
The end of the zig-zags means you have reached perhaps the steepest section of the hike – a short, straight slog directly uphill. It shouldn’t take long to complete, but you will likely need a minute to catch your breath once the path begins to level out again.
Tracking through the woods to the Alpine Meadow
With the steep section out of the way, the path begins to climb through thick woodland. In the summer heat, the leafy canopy’s protection will come as a welcome reprieve from the sun’s rays.
Eventually, after enjoying the shade of the forest, the path reaches a splendid alpine meadow. You could be forgiven for thinking you were in Switzerland as you wander alongside vibrant wildflowers, listening to the busy buzzing of bees and the humming of insects.
The alpine meadow is the perfect place to take a short break. The views down to Theth and across the valley are spectacular. Indeed, anyone struggling with the hike at this point would be justified simply stopping here and enjoying the immense scenery.
Following the trail back into the forest
For those who continue on the trail to Valbona Pass, the path from the alpine meadow leads back into the forest. A section of magical woodland awaits. The gentle breeze sweeps through the leaves, surrounding you with dappled sunlight that dances gently as you ascend further.
The path begins to cross a series of small streams and gulleys carved out over the millennia by the flow of runoff from the peaks above. Before long, you will reach a small mountain cafe which provides an excellent spot for a more extended break – perhaps a cup of strong coffee or an ice-cold soft drink. The cafe only operates during peak season.
The home-straight: leaving the treeline and reaching Valbona Pass
As the path continues to climb through the forest, the glimpses of scenery beyond the trees become increasingly spectacular. Before long, the treeline becomes noticeably thinner, and the views reveal themselves further.
Eventually, the trail breaks free from the treeline. At this point, you are enticingly close to reaching Valbona Pass. Continue to follow the rocky path, admiring the drama of the jagged peaks surrounding you.
The path navigates a small rocky outcrop, and a minute or so later, you will see the signpost that marks your arrival at Valbona Pass. Once you’ve reached the pass, you can explore the area and find the best spot for photographs to capture the incredible scenery stretched out beneath you.
Enjoying the views from Valbona Pass
If you left early in the morning, you should reach Valbona Pass in time for an early lunch. This is the perfect opportunity to enjoy the views.
The razor-sharp summits of the Albanian Alps stand tall on all sides. There are many spots where you can drop your bags and rest your legs, ready for the return trip to Theth.
Those looking for some added adventure can scramble up to a rocky outcrop that clings to the side of the slopes above Valbona. If scrambling isn’t your thing, there is no shortage of small paths and hidden corners along the ridge where you can take a seat and admire the fantastic vista.
Descending back down to Theth
The standard route from Valbona Pass to Theth follows the same path back down. Most hikers will complete the return leg much quicker than the ascent.
The several cafes along the way make for a great rest-stop, but most people will head straight back to Theth. The most popular place to enjoy a post-hike beer or soft drink is Bar Restaurant Jezerca on the edge of the village. Please note that the food here has very mixed reviews. We enjoyed a quick drink here, but would recommend finding a hot meal from one of the many excellent guesthouses in Theth.
A map of the full hike from Theth to Valbona Pass
The following link provides a full Google Map of the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass. This map uses the small village shop, just beyond the bridge, as the starting point.
The hike from Theth to Valbona Pass is one of the most spectacular routes in Europe. We hope this guide helps you make the most of your time in the Albanian Alps.
Great post! I’ve never heard of Theth. It looks beautiful. I do love a good hike. I can’t believe that you encountered some people who were walking up there in sandals! That is so silly. I’ve not worn my hiking boots in months. I need to head out and do a good walk 🙂