For many visitors to Albania, a trip to the dramatic landscape of the Albanian Alps is a must-do. The mountain village of Theth is one of the area’s most popular spots. Most travellers choose to spend a night or two here before moving on to explore the rest of the region.
It would not be an exaggeration to say that the Theth area hosts some of Albania’s most spectacular sights. It is well worth planning ahead to make the most of your visit – here are our recommendations for 8 fantastic things to do on a 2-day visit to Theth.
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1: Hike from Theth to the Blue Eye
Best for: One of the Albanian Alp’s most stunning water features.
Theth is a hiker’s paradise, and there are few better destinations than the Blue Eye. This natural pool of water dazzles a striking shade of blue – hence the name – and is fed by a picture-perfect waterfall that rushes down from the mountains above.
The hike to the Blue Eye from Theth tracks alongside the sparkling waters of the Thethit river. Estimates of the route’s length vary, but you can expect to hike between 15km and 20km. Of course, this depends on how often you meander off-piste to admire the views and grab a few snapshots.
You should budget a full day for the round trip. At a decent pace, it should take you 3 to 4 hours to reach the Blue Eye from Theth. The path is mostly flat, with some steeper sections at the beginning and end. However, the trail is rocky and can be slippy at times – make sure you pack your hiking shoes.
2: Watch the sun set over Theth church
Best for: An unforgettable end to your day in Theth.
Perform a Google search for ‘Theth’, and most image results will feature Theth church.
This diminutive structure punches above its weight. It stands proud in the middle of the village, drawing the eye and dominating many of Theth’s classic views.
The church is particularly striking at sunset. As the sun drops through the sky, the last light hits the mountain peaks, and the windows of the village houses begin to twinkle in the twilight.
Grab a picnic or a spot on the balcony of your guest house, and enjoy the show.
3: Hike from Theth to the Valbona Pass
Best for: Some of the best mountain views in Europe.
The hike from Theth to the village of Valbona is perhaps the most famous trail in the area. The route climbs over a thousand metres from Theth, reaching the spectacular Valbona pass before dropping into the neighbouring valley.
Many visitors to Theth will be completing the classic multi-day journey which takes them from Theth to Valbona, returning via the Komani lake ferry.
However, you can enjoy the ‘best bits’ of the hike on a day trip from Theth. Prepare yourself for a full day out, as you tackle the steep, winding path up to the pass. Your efforts will be rewarded with the most stunning views of Theth National Park.
The duration of the hike, as ever, depends on your fitness and the number of photo stops. We reached the pass within three and a half hours of leaving Theth. Our descent took just under three hours.
If you would like to know more, read our guide to the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass.
4: Visit the Lock-in Tower
Best for: A fascinating insight into the area’s history.
The documented history of Theth village dates back to 1485, when records show a small hamlet of seven houses existed in the valley. Part of the community’s rich history is the intriguingly named Lock-in Tower. This grey stone structure stands, unassumingly, at the south end of the village.
Throughout its history, the tower has acted as a defensive structure, guarding the villagers from aggressive foes. In addition to its defensive duties, the tower was also used to imprison those who had broken the ancient laws that governed the area. It acted as a focal point for those families affected by the crimes to meet and discuss their issues.
Today, Theth’s Lock-in Tower stands as a memorial to those traditions, with a small exhibit keeping those memories alive.
There is a sign outside the tower suggesting an entry fee. However, when we visited, the door was open and nobody was around to take our payment. Inside the tower, there is a small display of items from the tower’s history. On the walls, a few interesting photographs of local figures keep watch over the dark room.
5: Hike to Theth Waterfall
Best for: A short walk from Theth.
For those wanting to explore the trails alongside the river but who do not have time to hike to the Blue Eye, a wander to Theth Waterfall is perfect.
The waterfall can be reached in well under an hour from the edge of Theth village. The trail leads you over small rocky paths perched above the fast-flowing waters of the river. It snakes through thick undergrowth before eventually revealing a spectacularly high waterfall which plummets into a small pool.
Theth waterfall is certainly worth a short diversion from the trail to the Blue Eye. Indeed, it makes for a pleasant destination in its own right. We walked here one evening before dinner, enjoying the changing light and the solitude of the valley.
On the way back, we passed a quiet mountain cafe. They were beginning to wind up for the evening, but they happily let us buy a couple of cans of Cola and sit in their charming garden. Surrounded by the singing of birds and the sound of the nearby river, it was a wonderful way to end a day in Theth.
Read next: The best way to travel around Albania by bus
6: Explore Theth’s many village trails
Best for: Local life in the village.
You do not have to leave the village boundaries to have a great adventure on foot. Theth is crisscrossed by dozens of subtle trails, which have been trodden for generations by the village’s inhabitants.
This network of meandering footpaths is perfect for an early morning or post-dinner ramble. They wind their way through fields, past crumbling barns and long-forgotten walls. Each path offers a chance to discover corners of the village that most visitors will never see.
We used the footpaths as a way to enjoy an informal walking tour of Theth. Along the way, we spotted brightly-coloured lizards and majestic horses,. We were also playfully accosted by many yappy, excitable puppies – much to Lucy’s delight.
7: Enjoy a hearty dinner at a traditional Albanian guest house
Best for: Tasting the delicious local food.
The question of ‘where to eat in Theth’ was playing on our minds as we planned our trip. However, it quickly became apparent that most visitors to Theth will stay in a family guest house and enjoy a splendid dinner with their hosts.
Our experience was no exception. We stayed at the excellent Bujtina Dreni, enjoying breakfasts fit for royalty and dinners that were the perfect way to refuel after a long day. The friendly family that ran the guesthouse plied us with more food than we could possibly have coped with. Everything was cooked to perfection.
The guesthouse gave us a range of options to choose from. Chicken, fish, beef and pork were all on the menu. We did not enquire about vegetarian or vegan options, but no doubt our hosts would have been happy to accommodate.
If you do find yourselves dining at Dreni, we would wholeheartedly recommend the pork chops. They were lip-smackingly delicious.
8: Watch a dramatic thunderstorm over the Albanian Alps
Best for: Making the most of bad weather.
Theth’s location at the heart of a cauldron of mountain peaks makes it a perfect place for thunderstorms.
Summer storms can be awe-inspiring. As oppressive afternoon clouds replace the crisp morning air, thunder begins to roll down from the mountaintops. Eventually, the storm arrives overhead in a crashing cacophony of furious claps and blinding lightning forks.
There can be few better places to watch the spectacle than from the porch or balcony of your guest house. We enjoyed a couple of brilliant thunderstorms during our stay in Theth. The memory of the thunder echoing around the valley will stay with us forever.
If you are lucky enough to experience a thunderstorm during your stay in Theth, be sure to make it an experience. Grab a blanket, pour a cool beer or a warming mug of tea, and reflect on your time in this magnificent place.
How to get to Theth from Shkoder
The easiest way to reach Theth from Shkoder is by minibus or ‘furgon’. These operate like shared taxis and can be arranged by any good accommodation provider in Shkoder – from hotels to hostels. To book a place, just ask your host and they will arrange everything for you. The furgon tends to leave at 7am each day.
We paid 10 euros each for two places on our furgon when we visited Theth in May 2022. A taxi driver met us outside our hotel and drove us a short distance to the meeting point for the bus. Cramming our bags in the back, we squeezed into the last two available seats.
The journey took a little over three hours. It was a fantastic opportunity to get acquainted with the towering peaks of the Albanian Alps. The views become spectacular as the road starts to climb and wind its way into the mountains.
Having been a tough, bumpy dirt track for many years – suitable only for 4x4s – the entire road from Shkoder to Theth is now tarmacked. This means that driving to Theth is also possible for most competent drivers with access to a vehicle. There are several care hire places in Shkoder, and plenty to choose from in Tirana.
If you prefer to head to Theth under your own steam, we passed plenty of cyclists tackling the steep journey. Slow going, sure, but a splendid location for slower travel.
People with a real penchant for slow travel could, in theory, walk. Google suggests the route is somewhere in the region of 70km, which would mean roughly 15 hours of non-stop walking. For those tackling the Peaks of the Balkans trail, this may have some appeal as an appetiser to the main hike…
Our favourite things to do in Theth: final thoughts
Theth was one of the highlights of our trip to Albania. We feel very lucky to have visited just as the village was preparing for an inevitable tourism boom. It still felt quiet and relatively undiscovered as we strolled along the peaceful paths and watched the sun setting over the mountains
If you are into hiking and the outdoors, there is scenery in Theth to rival anywhere in Europe. The route to Valbona Pass is particularly special – we can rarely, if ever, remember enjoying such a spectacular view.
It is no surprise, therefore, that Theth’s secret appears to be out. The Albanian Alps appeared on National Geographic’s 2024 ‘Cool List’, marking it as one of the world’s top emerging destinations. If you’re considering a visit – the time is now.
Last updated: January 2024
I’ve always been a bit reluctant to travel to Eastern Europe. You never know quite where you stand as a Black man. It looks and sounds like a great place to visit, but I’d have to find out what their attitudes are to minorities
I was fortunate enough to have visited Albania, but I missed on Teth and the beautiful Alps. When reading your post I realize I should go back and bring my hiking shoes. The way you describe the lovely walks, sights and most importantly the hospitality, have me almost packing my bags. Especially since it is all accompanied with your amazing pictures. I would go just to experience the food they gave you in the guesthouse. Thanks for this amazing review.
Thanks Benny, really pleased you enjoyed it. Great to hear you have visited Albania before – it’s a wonderful country. If you’re ever back in the area, I would definitely recommend a trip to Theth! Thanks for reading.
Wow this place looks so awesome. I would love to visit one day. Thanks so much for sharing
Thanks for reading!
Wow, what stunning views. I’d love to visit one day and watch the sun set over Theth church. It looks like a wonderful experience filled with gorgeous landscapes and rich history.
It’s certainly one of the best sunset spots we’ve found over the last few years. Thanks so much for reading.
This looks so pretty! Some wonderful views. It looks like there is lot to experience. Thank you for sharing.
Lauren
Thanks Lauren, it’s a fantastic place to visit.
Albania has never been on my horizon of places to visit but your photos and commentary have me revisiting this! Absolutely gorgeous and a bit reminiscent of the Rocky Mountains here in Canada. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Jodie. Albania is certainly an underrated destination, but all the more rewarding for it. Would love to visit the Rocky Mountains one day – it’s definitely on the list! Thanks for reading
Albania looks gorgeous! I don’t know that I have actually seen pictures of it before, but your photos make me want to visit. Eating at a guest house sounds really unique and fun. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks, Heidi. It’s a brilliant destination with some lovely guest houses. Thanks for reading!
These are some really great sites to see! Albania looks like a beautiful country, the pictures look sooo good. A trip there looks like a trip to remember. Thanks for sharing!
I haven’t thought about visiting Albania before, but Theth looks like absolutely beautiful! It looks there are a lot of great hikes to do and places to visit, and the mountain views are stunning.