Berat Castle is part of the UNESCO-listed Historic Centre of Berat. For many visitors to this magical city, a trip to the Berat Castle is a real highlight.
The castle boasts a prime location above Berat, offering splendid views of the city and the spectacular mountains and valleys beyond. The fortress’s rich history comes to life from the moment you step foot inside its walls, making it an unmissable sight for visitors to this region of Albania.
We visited Berat for one night in May 2022, and spent half of our trip wandering the streets of this fascinating fortress. From entrance fees to the best things to do, here is our guide to exploring the beautiful buildings and walls of Berat Castle.
The History of Berat Castle
How old is Berat Castle?
There is evidence of a fortress on the site of Berat Castle as early as the 4th century B.C. The strategically significant location of the area made it the perfect place to build a citadel.
The castle has changed hands several times during its long history. The first recorded conflict occurred when an invading Roman army destroyed the early wooden fortress in 200 B.C. The army burnt the walls to the ground before completely reconstructing the castle.
Several Byzantine Emperors chose to strengthen the fortress, expanding its footprint and fortifying the walls against further attacks.
The castle stood throughout the next few centuries as a symbol of strength, visible for miles around. Eventually, in the 13th century, the castle’s major expansion and reconstruction was ordered.
Who built the castle we see today?
Michael Komnenos Doukas, the Despot of Epirus, is responsible for creating Berat Castle as it stands today.
In the 13th century, Komnenus ordered the reconstruction and expansion of the castle’s defences, and the fortress began to take shape. Despite a turbulent history, much of the castle has survived throughout the centuries, and many villagers still live among the ancient walls. It remains an impressive, grand sight, dominating the view from all corners of Berat.
How to get to Berat Castle
If you are reasonably fit and mobile, the best way to get to Berat Castle is to walk up the road from town. However, you can also drive to the main entrance.
Walk from central Berat
The walk to Berat Castle is a straightforward but steep climb from the centre of Berat.
Make your way to Rruga Antipatrea, one of the main roads through Berat. From here, turn on to Rruga Mihal Komnena. It is just under 1km from here to the main entrance to Berat Castle. You can find the walking route here. The walk will take you between 15 and 25 minutes, depending on your pace.
Halfway up the route, you have the option to take an unofficial shortcut to the castle. The shortcut zig-zags up a broken, overgrown path and takes you to a small side door in the city walls. We took this shortcut on our first visit. In all honesty, I doubt it saves you much time.
Drive from central Berat
You can drive up to the main gate to avoid the steep walk. There is a small, free car park here. Please be aware that the car park at Berat Castle can fill up – especially if coach tours are visiting.
The driving route to Berat Castle from the town centre is the same as the walking route. It should take you less than five minutes to drive.
Read next: How to travel around Albania by bus – a one week itinerary
Berat Castle Entrance Fee
We visited Berat Castle twice. On both occasions, we were able to enter for free. However, we took the zig-zag shortcut on our first visit. On our second trip, we walked through the main entrance just after sunrise.
Expect to pay an entrance fee of 300 lek if you enter via the main entrance to Berat Castle between 9 and 6pm.
Top things to do in Berat Castle
So you’ve made it up to the fortress – now what? Here is our list of the best things to do in Berat Castle:
1: Take in the view from the many viewpoints
Berat Castle is located in a perfect position high above the city. As you walk around the perimeter walls, you will discover countless fantastic viewpoints.
Admire the towering mountains, or marvel at the hundreds of red rooftops clustered directly below you in Berat’s old town.
2: Cool down with a drink at one of the cafes
Berat’s peak tourist season is the hot summer months when temperatures regularly linger in the mid-thirties Celsius.
If you have endured the long, hot walk up to the castle, we suggest making a beeline for a cafe. Grab an ice-cold drink, find a shaded table, and watch the world go by.
3: Explore the perimeter walls of Berat Castle
Berat Castle’s impressive perimeter walls are worth exploring in their own right. We suggest following them as they guide you around the outskirts of the fortress.
Take the time to peek into the many intriguing ruins, paths, and shops you will find along the way.
4: Discover the mysterious Water Cistern
The Byzantine-era water cistern is one of the most strangely magical places at Berat Castle. It is not much to look at from the outside. In fact, only when you approach the entrance to the cistern do you realise that thousands of bats live among the dark recesses.
Take care when approaching the entrance, as there’s a steep drop at the edge of the steps into the stagnant water far below. The safest place to view the water cistern and hear the bats is from the windows left of the entrance.
5: Admire Berat Castle’s ancient churches
In its heyday, Berat Castle’s population was so large that it could sustain over thirty churches within its fortified walls.
Today, less than ten churches survive. Some, such as the Church of St George, are ruins and closed to the public. However, there are a handful which you can visit.
Two of the most famous churches in Berat Castle are the Cathedral Assumption of Saint Mary and Holy Trinity Church. Both are open to visitors, although the latter’s opening times are not consistent. It was closed when we visited.
6: Learn about the ruins of Berat Castle’s only mosque
Christianity was, by some measure, the dominant religion among the inhabitants of Berat Castle. However, the ruins of the Red Mosque stand as proof that a small population of Muslims lived here at some point in the castle’s history.
Nobody is quite sure when the Red Mosque was built. The best guess is that the mosque dates back to the 15th century, built by the Ottomans shortly after they invaded in 1417.
Today, the well-preserved minaret still stands tall above the castle’s walls.
7: Buy a souvenir from a local artisan
Besides museums, cafes and restaurants, Berat Castle is also home to a range of independent artisans and souvenir sellers. You will find plenty of souvenirs for sale near the main entrance, ranging from postcards to hand-knitted scarves and socks.
Wander the streets, and you will undoubtedly find more artisans running small shops from their houses. We bought a couple of hand-carved wooden plaques from a carpenter who ran a small studio from his front door.
8: Visit one of the castle’s museums
There are a handful of museums in Berat Castle. The most established of these is the museum of iconography, located in the grounds of the Cathedral. The museum boasts an impressive collection of icons, artwork, and wood carvings.
Hidden among the quieter streets is the Mbrica Family Museum, which offers visitors an interesting insight into the life of a local family of goldsmiths. The Mbrica family also run a small cafe and restaurant onsite.
The best viewpoints in Berat Castle
It is no coincidence that the castle is located here – the enviable clifftop position offers sweeping views in all directions. In the past, these views would have been invaluable. The castle’s guard could spot attackers approaching from miles away and prepare to defend the fortress.
These days, the magnificent viewpoints serve to delight visitors.
The best viewpoint in Berat Castle for admiring the Ottoman old town is at the southern end. In the shadow of an enormous Albania flag, a robust viewing platform offers an unobstructed view down to the rooftops and windows of the Gorica district. It is a popular spot for couples, particularly at sunset.
A short walk along the castle walls is the Guest House Iljesa cafe, perched on the ramparts a stone’s throw from the ‘secret’ entrance to the castle. This cafe offers terrific views across the Tomorr mountain range and the sprawling city below.
On the western side of Berat castle is the Church of the Holy Trinity. There is an excellent viewpoint here, which gives you a stunning view down the vast valley. The views stretch all the way to the horizon along the impossibly flat floodplains.
Where to eat and drink in Berat Castle
Berat Castle is the size of a large village. It offers visitors a healthy variety of cafes and restaurants to choose from. Whether you are looking to kick-start your day with a caffeine hit, cool down with an ice-cold beer, or eat a hearty evening meal, there are a number of suitable options:
- Temi Albanian Restaurant is one of the best restaurants in Berat Castle. Temi serves traditional Albanian food and is run by a mother and daughter team. A real family establishment and consistently highly rated by travellers.
- Shqiponja Traditional Restaurant is another reliable option for authentic Albanian food in Berat Castle. The husband and wife team serve up traditional favourites such as moussaka and burek just a stone’s throw from the main entrance to the castle. The family have their own farm, which is used for many of the ingredients.
- Bar Akropoli is a well-located outdoor cafe serving various hot and cold drinks. Prices reflect the cafe’s premium location, with views across the inner castle grounds.
- Te Zalua is a popular bar and restaurant which attracts a stylish young crowd. Located towards the southern end of the fortress, Te Zalua enjoys spectacular views across the city.
- Guest House Iljesa has a small cafe perched on the outer east wall. They serve a small range of hot and cold drinks, and the views make it the perfect place for a refreshing break whilst exploring Berat Castle.
This enormous fortress certainly has enough to keep visitors entertained and enthralled. From stunning viewpoints to delicious homecooked food, we hope this guide helps you make the most of your time exploring Berat Castle.