Pristina, with its ever-growing roster of bus and flight connections, is the starting point for most adventures in Kosovo. One of the most popular onward journeys from Kosovo’s burgeoning capital city is Peja, the gateway to the spectacular Rugova Canyon and the Accursed Mountains.
Whilst there are plenty of bus connections between Pristina and Peja, it is also possible to travel between the two cities by train.
We chose to take the railway route between Peja and Pristina in October 2023. Whilst much of this post is based on our experiences of that journey, we will try to update the key facts (timetables, ticket cost etc.) when new information is available. From buying tickets to getting to the stations, here’s our guide to travelling between Pristina and Peja by train.
The railway route between Pristina and Peja
Pristina and Peja are just 45 miles apart as the crow flies. The railway route is a little longer, meandering through the Kosovan countryside, making frequent stops at little-known towns and villages along the way.
On a sunny day, the journey is a marvellous way to admire the distant mountains, tree-covered hills and vast plains that roll past the window.
How long does the journey take?
The journey between Peja and Pristina takes two hours by train. The duration of the trip is largely thanks to the slow speed of the train and the frequency of stops. The train calls at 18 stations between the two cities.
The all-important timetable
When we travelled, in October 2023, there were two daily trains in both directions between Peja and Pristina.
From Peja to Pristina
- The 05:32 from Peja, which arrives in Pristina at 07:32.
- The 12:10 from Peja, which arrives in Pristina at 14:10.
From Pristina to Peja
- The 07:50 from Pristina, which arrives in Peja at 09:53.
- The 16:30 from Pristina, which arrives in Peja at 18:29.
How to find the train timetable
Despite our best efforts, we couldn’t find an accurate online timetable. Therefore, the best way to check the train times is by going to the station building at Peja or Pristina.
In both cities, the timetable is stuck haphazardly to the wall – keep an eye out for a faded poster with the train times written in red blocks.
If you’re starting your journey in Peja, you can find the timetable on the outside of the station building, in a shaded alcove opposite the tracks.
In Pristina, the timetable is on the wall outside as well as inside the ticket office, sellotaped next to the dusty windows of a closed information booth.
Peja Train Station: key things to know
From travelling to the station to stocking up on water and snacks for the journey, here are the important things to know about Peja train station.
How to get to Peja train station
The easiest way to get to Peja train station is on foot. Peja is a relatively small city, and the station is an easy walk from the centre. Click here for our recommended walking route from the clock in the main square.
If you will struggle to walk, or have too much luggage, there are plenty of taxis in Peja. Your hotel or hostel should be able to arrange one for you at a fair price.
Food and drink around Peja train station
The train station in Peja is on the edge of the city centre. The station building itself is, as of October 2023, in a sorry state. There is nowhere at the station to get food or stock up on water.
However, there are a handful of eateries and shops a short distance away. These include:
- Buquyu grill house for kebabs and classic barbequed meat.
- Hello Market for drinks and snacks.
- Ëmbëltore Titanic for cakes and sweet pastries.
Pristina Train Station: key things to know
Here’s our low-down on what you need to know about Pristina train station.
How to get to Pristina train station
Just like Peja train station, Pristina train station is a short walk from the centre of town. From the famous Newborn monument, you can reach the train station on foot in ten minutes. Click here for our recommended walking route.
However, if you are travelling from further away, you can reach the city centre by bus and then finish your journey on foot.
Alternatively, there are plenty of taxi companies in Pristina. We used Blue Taxis – their cars are modern and clean, and they arrived on time for our journey to the airport. Again, your hostel or hotel should be able to arrange a good price.
Read next: 18 of the best things to do during one day in Pristina.
Food and drink around Pristina train station
There is no shop in the train station at Pristina. However, the Ramiz Sadiku shopping centre is just across the road. Here, you can find major fast food brands such as Burger King and KFC, as well as the Viva Fresh supermarket – perfect for nibbles and drinks.
If you fancy something a bit more substantial, nearby BRUNI serves good Neapolitan pizza.
Buying tickets for the train between Peja and Pristina
As well as struggling to find an online timetable, we also weren’t sure how to buy tickets for the train. Thankfully, this turned out to be nice and easy – read on to find out why.
How to buy tickets
The best way to buy tickets for the train between Peja and Pristina is on the train.
There is no working ticket office at either station. This means you cannot buy your tickets before you board. This is no problem – do not worry about hopping on board without a ticket.
When the train departs, a conductor walks down the carriages. You can buy your ticket directly from the conductor. When we caught the train, our conductor spoke good English.
Price of a train ticket from Pristina to Peja
As of October 2023, a one-way ticket for the train between Peja and Pristina costs €3. This offers excellent, almost unbelievable value for an intercity journey of over two hours.
You must pay for the ticket in cash. The conductor does have change, but they appreciate it if you can give the exact amount.
Read next: Visiting the Patriarchate of Peć on the outskirts of Peja.
The onboard experience: what it’s like to travel by train in Kosovo
Our train comprised four carriages and one hefty engine. We immediately recognised the passenger carriages as old Deutsche Bahn rolling stock.
A staple of the German and Austrian railways for decades, the carriages now ferry passengers between Peja and Pristina. The carriage doors were open when we arrived at the station. After confirming that we needed to buy our tickets onboard, we climbed up the steep metal steps to choose our seats.
Luggage storage
There was ample room for luggage. Firstly, the train was not busy – most passengers simply placed their bags on the seat next to them.
Alternatively, each carriage had overhead luggage rails. These were easily big enough to fit a large rucksack – I put mine up there with no issues. A small or medium-sized suitcase would also be fine.
Read next: Heading up the tower of the Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa in Pristina.
Seating on the train
Our carriage was split between a first and class section. Truth be told, we’re not sure whether the first class section is used – if you know, please do tell us in the comments.
Our second class section was arranged in a 2 x 2 formation, with seats facing each other – ideal for groups of four. In other carriages, seats were in pairs all facing the same way.
The seats were comfortable, and nobody came and sat with us – the train was relatively quiet the entire journey. Aside from the seats, a few other things caught our eye on the train:
- Most of the windows were smashed, with many nursing multiple impact wounds. A little research told us that the culprits were local youths.
- The temperature was controlled by the intermittent opening and closing of the windows. We visited on a warm October day. It was 25 degrees Celsius outside, but the train felt comfortable.
- We didn’t use the bathrooms, but a fellow traveller informed us that at least one of the onboard toilets was not working. She had to walk further down the train, and eventually found a toilet that was operational.
“My favourite thing about catching the train from Peja to Pristina was that it gave us a different perspective on travelling in the region. It was a great alternative to the bus.”
Lucy gives her thoughts on the train
The train trundled along at a gentle pace throughout the journey. Carriages squeaked and groaned as we meandered around long, sweeping bends in the track. Passengers came and went, with small throngs of relatives and friends gathered at the various stations along the way, waiting expectantly for loved ones to arrive. We sank back in our seats and watched it all unfold.
Read next: A short guide to Peja, Prizren and Gjakova bus stations.
Three things to watch out for from the train
With an impressive array of sights to spot along the way, here are three things we suggest you should watch out for during your journey.
1) The mountains near Peja. Peja stands under the shadow of the mighty Accursed Mountains, which stretch across the borders of Kosovo, Albania and Montenegro.
For the best view, grab a seat facing north. This will be on the left of the train if travelling from Peja to Pristina. If going from Pristina to Peja, this will be on the right of the train.
2) Fields and farms. As mountains turn to rolling hills, the landscape becomes dotted with fields. Keep an eye out for workers gathering crops and ploughing the earth.
3) Old train stations. On the route between Peja and Pristina, you will pass dozens of old, dilapidated train stations. These small, stone buildings stand in various states of disrepair. Some are completely falling apart, with missing roofs and trees growing through the windows. Others are still in use, with faded signs, sagging sofas and clusters of passengers waiting to board.
Catching the train between Peja and Pristina was one of our favourite journeys during our latest trip to Kosovo. It offers excellent value, plentiful seating and is a compelling alternative to the bus. If you get the chance to try it out, we highly recommend taking the plunge.