The small city of Peja is one of the heavyweights of Kosovo’s burgeoning tourism scene. Home to everything from UNESCO World Heritage Sites to historic hammams and busy bazaars, the city has plenty to offer visitors.
The backdrop, too, is spectacular, with the dramatic summits of the Accursed Mountains rising up above the city. Many hikers pass through Peja when completing the Peaks of the Balkans hiking trail, whilst others make a beeline for the climbing routes and via ferratas of the rugged Rugova Canyon, just a short drive from the edge of town.
Whatever your reason for visiting, we think it’s worth spending a couple of days to get to know Peja itself. We visited in October 2023 as part of a journey through Kosovo by train and bus and loved exploring everything the city has to offer. Here are our ten favourite things to do during two days in Peja.
This post may contain affiliate links. Whenever you buy something or make a booking using one of our links, we will receive a small commission – this helps us keep the site going and will come at no cost to you. We will only add links for products or places we think you’ll love. Thank you!
1) Marvel at the Patriarchate of Peć monastery complex
Best for: A world-class heritage site surrounded by nature.
The UNESCO-listed Patriarchate of Peć is a beautiful monastery complex and one of the most holy sites of the Serbian Orthodox Church. Its story stretches back to the 13th century, and it is the historic home of the Patriarch – the head of the Serbian Orthodox church. Today, it is inhabited by a small group of nuns who maintain the grounds and care for the ancient buildings.
The monastery complex sits at the entrance to the Rugova Valley, about a 20-minute walk from Peja’s busy city centre. Surrounded by mountains and greenery, visiting this breathtaking place is a must-do when visiting Peja. A visit here also acts as a poignant reminder of the complicated tensions in the region. A tall perimeter wall surrounds the monastery. Aggressive spikes stand atop the wall to warn off any would-be intruders.
Local police keep watch at the entrance to the monastery. You need to show them your passport before being allowed to enter. When we visited, there was one friendly policeman on duty. He took our passports into his booth for two minutes before returning them with a smile and waving us in.
Inside the monastery
On a sunny day, the Patriarchate of Peć felt like an oasis of calm. Surrounded by forested hills, the community of nuns were out in force, carrying out a variety of tasks – from sweeping the paving slabs to cleaning the church.
The highlight of the Patriarchate complex is the show-stopping church. The facade is painted a striking red colour. Inside, ornate frescos adorn every inch of the walls, illuminated by gentle lighting and the flicker of candles.
Don’t miss: The frescos inside the church are truly remarkable. Make sure to allow yourself enough time to really appreciate them.
We loved: The atmosphere as soon as you walked through the gates. The M9 road is dusty and noisy, with a regular flow of fast-moving traffic. Somehow, the noise of the engines and the screeching of tyres disappeared the moment we passed through the gates. A stream trickled alongside us. Cows grazed quietly in a nearby field. It was bliss.
How to do it: The Patriarchate of Peć is open from 9am to 5pm. Entry is free, but there is a donation box inside the church if you wish to contribute. Don’t forget to bring your passport – the police will check this before allowing you to enter.
Read next: A detailed report of our experience of visiting the Patriarchate of Peć.
2) Enjoy a coffee around Peja square
Best for: People watching.
The bustling city square is the beating heart of Peja’s social scene. At one end, the Hotel Dukagjini is a popular haunt for visiting dignitaries and offers an upmarket spot for dinner.
Further up the square, both sides of the pedestrianised street are flanked by cafes and bars. Families, couples and groups of friends meet here to enjoy a coffee and a catch-up.
Whenever you need a break, we highly recommend making a beeline for a popular cafe, ordering a drink and soaking up the atmosphere. The square is busy at all times of the day, although our favourite moments were spent at sunset.
We loved: The desserts from Dolcetto Family Agusholli were an excellent sweet treat at the end of a long day exploring.
3) Stroll the streets of Peja’s historic bazaar
Best for: A wide variety of shops.
Peja’s old bazaar is the city’s most historic shopping district. Historically, the Ottomon-era maze of alleyways and cobbled streets was home to hundreds of craftspeople. From shoes to jewellery, everything was made, bought and sold in the bazaar.
Today, the bazaar has a somewhat more modern feel. There is still an abundance of jewellers, but many of the more niche crafts and skills have disappeared. In their place, an abundance of clothes shops selling cut-price branded goods seem to be doing a roaring trade.
Regardless of the wares on offer, a stroll around the bazaar is one of the highlights of a trip to Peja. Much of the area was badly damaged during the 1999 war, and the bazaar has been rebuilt in a style that reflects its past.
At the centre of the bazaar’s sprawling streets is a small square. There isn’t much to see on the square itself besides the historic Bajrakli mosque, which was also damaged during the war and eventually restored.
How to do it: You can walk around Peja’s bazaar whenever you like. However, it is at its best during the day, when all the shops are open and groups of locals stroll around. Most shops do not stay open late, and many are closed on Sundays.
4) Walk to the riverside Te Sharra restaurant for lunch
Best for: A bite to eat in an idyllic setting.
Serving everything from grilled fish to classic kebap, the Te Sharra restaurant boasts an enviable location on the picturesque route into the Rugova Canyon.
The restaurant is a popular lunch spot on a sunny day, with the tables on its waterside terrace quickly filling up. It is a bit of a walk out of town – a further 20 minutes from the Patriarchate of Peć. If you can handle the heat and the hike, the reward is worth it.
Our experience: We sat for 90 minutes enjoying the river trickle past, sharing a plate of kebap and washing it down with a Peja beer and a cola. We found the service a little slow, but it hardly mattered when you have a setting like this.
How to get to Te Sharra from Peja city centre
The best time to visit Te Sharra is at lunch, particularly if you are walking to and from Peja.
You can walk straight along the M9 road, past the Patriarchate of Peć. We did this on our way to the restaurant. It’s not the nicest walk, and there isn’t always pavement, but the road is wide enough that we rarely felt unsafe.
To avoid the road walk, we recommend taking the very pleasant riverside trail that begins opposite the Rugova Valley Tourist Information Center. Simply cross the bridge and follow the brand-new concrete ramp up into the woods before turning right and taking the trail. Eventually, you will reach another bridge that crosses back over the river just a few dozen metres from the restaurant. This is by far the best walking route from Peja to Te Sharra.
Note: If you are going to Te Sharra after visiting the Patriarchate of Peć, you cannot follow the “Rruga e Kishes” route that is marked on online maps. Although this road appears to go straight from the monastery to Te Sharra, we found a big, closed fence a hundred metres further down from the entrance to the Patriarchate. We ended up doubling back on ourselves and walking down the M9 road instead.
Best for: Providing some contrast to Peja’s prettier buildings.
Despite its picturesque surroundings and historic sites, Peja can also spring a few architectural surprises. The city’s tallest buildings are, invariably, its concrete tower blocks. They can dominate the skyline, particularly from afar, but we think they have a certain charm.
As you stroll around the city, it’s worth keeping an eye out for them looming above you. Here are a couple of our favourite spots:
- The Bank of Kosovo building that rises above the central square. When framed by the autumn foliage beneath, it almost looks picturesque. Almost.
- The smatterings of concrete apartment blocks stand tall near Peja’s bus station. One development in particular was particularly striking, with two towers built in an unusual style, resembling a half-finished game of Tetris.
6) Call in at the tourist information centre
Best for: Finding out more about the area.
For a relatively small city, Peja is home to a surprisingly well-resourced tourist information centre. Indeed, we got the impression that Peja is gearing up to become a compelling destination for travellers – particularly when it comes to outdoor adventure. Little wonder, with the Rugova Canyon and Accursed Mountains on its doorstep.
When we visited, we were greeted by a very nice lady who was more than happy to chat about Peja and the surrounding areas. Be sure to let the staff know where you are from – they like to keep a record.
We loved: The variety of materials that you could take away to read later.
Top tip: Grab a map of the ‘cultural walking tour’ of Peja. The map provides excellent inspiration for things to see and do in the city.
How to do it: Peja’s tourist information centre is open from 8am to 4pm, Monday to Friday. Entrance is free, and there will be a staff member on hand to answer any questions.
7) Find the Haxhi Beu hammam
Best for: A close-up glimpse at a historic hammam.
One of Peja’s most charming sights is the small Haxhi Beu hammam. The hammam, with its tiny domes, stands at the corner of a quiet road on the edge of the old bazaar.
Thanks to its humble height, a walk here gives you a good opportunity to admire the myriad holes built into the domes, which would have provided light to the people inside the hammam. The building dates back to the 15th century, but is no longer used today.
Please note: The Haxhi Beu hammam currently stands empty and locked. However, there is an information board on the wall which can help bring the history of the site to life. It’s worth a short detour if you’re in the area, but you are unlikely to spend more than 10 to 15 minutes here.
8) Have dinner at Hotel e Kulla e Zenel Beut
Best for: Traditional food in a lovely setting.
In the courtyard of a traditional Kulla – a historic tower house built in typical Albanian style – sits the restaurant of Hotel Kulla E Zenel Beut. This popular eatery is open for breakfast and lunch, but it is at its best in the evenings, when traditional food is served under a leafy canopy in the courtyard.
From casserole to fried cheese, the menu is packed with local specialities to try. However, they also make excellent pizza. To wash your food down, Peja beer is always a favourite, whilst the restaurant also serves a selection of local wines.
How to do it: During the busy season, we recommend calling in to make a reservation. Whilst Peja has plenty of good restaurants, few can match the atmosphere here – as a result, it can get busy.
9) Visit the Ethnographic Museum of Peja
Within the walls of a traditional wooden house stands the Ethnographic Museum of Peja. The museum showcases traditional tools, costumes and ancient archaeology from Peja and the surrounding area.
The top floor of the museum gives a fascinating insight into living conditions during the 19th century, whilst the ground floor is dedicated to telling the story of the area through artefacts and archaeological finds.
How to do it: The Ethnographic Museum is open from 8am to 4pm Monday to Friday, and from 10am to 2pm on Saturdays and Sundays.
10) Explore the Haxhi Zeka watermill
Dating back to the Austro-Hungarian period, the Haxhi Zeka watermill was the first of its kind to be built in Kosovo. Built with the support of the Austro-Hungarians using Austrian technology, the mill is said to have kickstarted the push towards industrialisation in Peja.
The mill was destroyed during the 1999 war, but has since been restored and now exists as a small museum charting the history of the complex.
Top tip: We found the mill quite hard to locate. However, we eventually tracked it down. Click here for an accurate pin of the mill’s location on Google Maps.
How to do it: The mill is open to visitors Monday to Friday from 10am to 4pm.
2 days in Peja: how we did it
Our accommodation in Peja
Peja has plenty of accommodation options to choose from. We opted to stay in a brand new boutique hotel, the Doa. This family-run venture opened during the summer of 2023 on the site of a traditional Kulla. After a busy few days on our travels, this touch of luxury was exactly what we needed. The hotel was spotlessly clean, the bed was super comfy and the shower was excellent.
The sister restaurant, GARDÉ, is a popular dinner spot, with food served in a pleasant courtyard under lush green vine leaves. Rooms from £35 a night.
Our favourite restaurant in Peja
With a large terrace as well as plenty of indoor seating, we really enjoyed our visits to Flo’s Restaurant. The menu is varied and tends to focus more on international cuisine, which was exactly what we needed after many days in a row spent eating kebap. Portion sizes were generous, particularly for the pasta. Service was friendly, with good English spoken.
If you like beer, make sure to order some of the local Birra Peja.
Read next: How to make the most of your time on Širok Sokak in Bitola, North Macedonia.
How to get to Peja
From Pristina
The best way to get from Pristina to Peja is by bus or train. There are frequent buses – up to 3 an hour – from Pristina bus station, whilst the train to Peja leaves twice a day. We took the train from Peja to Pristina and found it to be excellent value at €3 for a one-way ticket.
Alternatively, the drive from Pristina to Peja is just over 50 miles and should take between 90 minutes and 2 hours, depending on traffic.
From Prizren
The best way to get from Prizren to Peja is by bus. Buses leave regularly from Prizren bus station, with journeys lasting roughly two hours. The bus is unlikely to be full, so just make sure to turn up 15 minutes before your planned departure time.
We caught the 13.40 bus from Prizren to Peja – it seemed to coincide with the end of school, so it was a little busier than usual. You can pay on the bus, with tickets costing €5 each for a one-way ticket.
Read more about the buses in Kosovo: For a short guide to the bus stations at Prizren, Peja and nearby Gjakova, click here.
Extending your stay
If we were staying longer in Peja, we would have certainly looked to explore the Rugova Valley. There is a tourist information centre for the valley near the entrance to the Patriarchate of Peć.