Albania by Bus: A One Week Itinerary

Our Albania itinerary is based on a trip we took in May 2022. We had one week to explore the best of Albania, from the beautiful mountains in the north to the energetic streets of Tirana. We think this is a perfect itinerary for anyone who loves to combine hiking, cities, and the coast.

Our one-week itinerary for Albania takes in:

• Shkodër
• Theth
• Durrës
• Tirana
• Berat

These five fantastic places offer great variety, and are all accessible via Albania’s excellent bus network.

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One Week Itinerary in Albania: Travelling by Bus

Many people choose to drive in Albania, but we used the bus system to hop between places. This itinerary is based on seven days in Albania travelling by bus.

There are three main types of bus in Albania:

• Long-distance buses that connect towns and cities across the country. These will typically leave from dedicated bus stations, such as the Regional Bus Terminal in Tirana.
• Local buses that connect neighbourhoods within a town or city. Like most places in Europe, you can catch these buses from bus stops on the street.
• Shared minibuses – also known as ‘furgons’. The furgons often start their journeys from the bus stations. Some will travel around a city – just like a local bus. Others will travel between towns and cities across the country.

Even when travelling by bus, one week in Albania is long enough to spend some time in the cities, head hiking in the mountains, and relax on the golden sands of the Adriatic Coast.

Day One: Tirana to Shkodër

Shkodër is the largest city in northern Albania. For many travellers, it is the gateway to the Albanian Alps. However, it is worth stopping here for a night and exploring everything the city offers.

As one of the oldest cities in the region, Shkodër has a wealth of history and culture to enjoy. Located on the bank of the immense Skadar lake and just a short drive from the shores of the Adriatic, Shkodër was the first city on our seven-day itinerary in Albania.

Getting to Shkodër from Tirana airport

• We landed at Tirana airport at 13:05 on the easyJet flight from Gatwick.
• In the interest of time, we caught a taxi to the bus station. There was a flat fee of 20 euros, which we felt was overpriced considering the distance. In hindsight, we should have waited for the shuttle bus to the city centre and made our own way to the bus station via the local bus network.
• When we arrived at the bus station, we saw the bus with a sign for Shkodër in the window. We paid the driver, dropped our backpacks in the hold, and grabbed a seat.
• The journey from Tirana bus station to Shkodër took 1 hour and 45 minutes. Before we knew it, we had arrived at our first destination.

Exploring Shkodër

Shkodër is not a big city, and one night is enough if you only have a week in Albania. We arrived late in the afternoon, and had enough time to:

• Walk around the city’s old streets, admiring the architecture and soaking in the early summer heat.
• Admire the Ebu Beker mosque, which dominates the view in the city centre as it gleams in the afternoon sun.
• Stop at Flo cafe for a strong coffee and snack.
• Visit the Teatri Migjeni, one of a handful of theatres in Shkodër.

If we had had more time, we would have visited the ruins of ancient Rozafa Castle and enjoyed the views over the city from its crumbling walls.

Where to have dinner in Shkodër

As it was night one of the trip, we wanted to try some Albanian dishes. We stumbled across Fisi Restaurant, located on a busy street near the main pedestrian areas. Here we enjoyed a splendid meal with various dishes – the perfectly-cooked cevapi was the particular stand-out.

Where to stay in Shkodër

There are many guest houses and hotels to choose from in Shkodër. We wanted somewhere central to enjoy a good night’s sleep. Our one-week itinerary in Albania was jam-packed, and we needed our rest.

Unfortunately, we cannot recommend the hotel we booked – it was noisy and unwelcoming. In hindsight, we should have opted for one of these places:

• InTown Guesthouse Shkoder: Expect splendid hospitality from the host, Renato.
• Çoçja Boutique Hotel: A great range of rooms and amenities, including a fantastic breakfast.
• The Wanderers Hostel: A favourite amongst hikers and backpackers.

Day Two: Shkodër to Theth

Getting to Theth from Shkodër

You can read more about how to get to Theth from Shkodër by bus in our guide to the best things to see and do in Theth.

In summary, your accommodation in Shkodër can arrange a place on a furgon – shared minibus – which transports visitors to Theth. The bus from Shkodër to Theth leaves at 7am, so you should be prepared for an early start!

When you arrive in Theth, make sure to agree the day of your return trip. The minibus will pick you up from your guest house in Theth at the arranged time.

Exploring Theth

Theth is a wonderfully picturesque mountain village. The scenery here is phenomenal, and there are endless trails for hikers to enjoy. We have written about our experiences staying in Theth and would recommend it to anyone who appreciates great scenery and excellent hospitality.

When you arrive in Theth, we recommend staying local and exploring the village:

• Settle into your guest house and talk to your host family.
• Explore the paths around Theth.
• Visit Theth Church and the Lock-in tower.
• If you have time, take a stroll down to Theth waterfall before retiring for a drink at your guest house or a local cafe.

Where to stay in Theth

We stayed in Guest House Bujtina Dreni and would wholeheartedly recommend it. It was certainly one of the highlights of our one week itinerary in Albania.

The family were wonderful hosts, and the views from the balconies across the village to the mountains beyond were spectacular. Breakfast and dinner were hearty and gave us plenty of energy to explore the area.

Day Three: Theth to Valbona Pass and back to Theth

On Day Three, we recommend taking the classic hike from your guest house in Theth to Valbona Pass. Admire the spectacular views across the Albanian Alps from the top of the pass before returning to Theth for a well-earned drink and food.

Getting to Valbona Pass from Theth

We have written a guide to the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass. In summary, this is a challenging but manageable day hike, with over a thousand metres of ascent. You will follow well-marked paths and will likely meet other hikers along the way.

The views from the top are well worth the effort. Check the conditions before you set off – this can be a dangerous hike if there is still snow on the ground or if a thunderstorm rolls in.

Day Four: Theth to Durrës

When we visited Albania in May 2022, we stayed in Tirana after visiting Theth. Therefore, this is a slight deviation from the route that we did. However, we would recommend adding Durrës to your itinerary for one week in Albania if the weather is good.

Durrës is Albania’s second-largest city and is just 30km from Tirana. It is a perfect place to soak up some sun and relax after a long hike in the Albanian Alps.

Getting to Durrës from Theth

To get to Durrës from Theth, you must change at Shkodër and potentially Tirana. Your day will look like this:

1. The furgon will pick you up from your guest house in Theth and drive you to Shkodër.
2. The furgon can drop you off at Shkodër Bus Station. This is where you catch the main bus to Tirana. There should be a sign in the window of the bus. Ask a local if you are not sure.
3. Check with the driver whether the bus travels via Durrës. If the bus does stop in Durrës, great!
4. If the bus goes directly to Tirana, you will arrive at Tirana bus station.
5. At the bus station in Tirana, look for a bus with a sign to Durres in the window. These buses leave every 30 minutes during the day.

Where to stay in Durrës

With a reputation as a prime seaside resort, there are hundreds of hotels and guest houses in Durrës. Some of the best options are:

• Giulia Albérgo Hotel: A short walk from the beach with excellent rooms and a stunning breakfast.
• Old Town Villa 2: Liljana and Jovan will make you feel right at home. Close to the bus station and not far from the sea.
• Hotel Kloest: Exceedingly friendly staff and a great location next to the sea.

Day Five: Durrës to Berat

Berat is a stunning little city with a remarkable UNESCO world-heritage old town. Known as the ‘City of a Thousand Windows’, Berat’s Ottoman architecture and spectacular setting draws visitors from across the globe. If you have a week in Albania, you must add Berat to your itinerary.

Getting to Berat from Durrës

To get to Berat from Durrës by bus, you will need to::

1. Take the bus from Durrës to Tirana.
2. Take the bus from Tirana to Berat.
3. Catch the local bus from Berat bus station into the centre of Berat.

Exploring Berat

Berat is a small city, and you can easily explore most main sights within a day. You can read our account of our one night in Berat, where we explored:

• The sprawling fortress of Berat castle
• The narrow streets of Berat’s old town
• The banks of the river Osum

Where to eat and drink in Berat

We visited the following places for food and would recommend them:

• Eni Traditional Food
• Bujtina Apsus

If you can secure a table at Homemade Food Lili, this is often cited as the best restaurant in Berat for travellers.

We also enjoyed some refreshing drinks at these two cafes in Berat castle:

• Bar Akropoli
• Guest House Iljesa

Berat has a wealth of cafes, bars and restaurants to choose from. Whether exploring the old town, wandering the busy Bulevardi Republika in the evening, or discovering the beautiful castle, you will never be too far from a great place to eat or drink.

Where to stay in Berat

Berat has a great variety of accommodation to choose from. Hostels, hotels and guest houses have sprung up throughout the city. We decided to book at Timo’s Guest House, staying with the wonderful George and Maria, whose hospitality (and breakfast!) was unforgettable.

There are countless other great hotels and restaurants in Berat. Some others that caught our eye are:

• Hotel Klea: A traditional hotel based in the heart of Berat Castle with excellent reviews.
• Hani i Xheblatit: A guest house with fantastic views from a terrace and superb hosting from the owner, Andi.
• Olive B&B: A more modern bed and breakfast with a warm welcome and excellent food.

With stunning views, incredible history, and some amazing accommodation, Berat is a must-do in any itinerary when spending one week in Albania.

Day Six: Berat to Tirana

One or two days is enough to get a feel for Tirana. We enjoyed the city, but if you only have seven days in Albania, you should not dedicate too much time to Tirana. We have seen some people encouraging visitors to skip Tirana altogether, but we believe it is worth spending some time in the capital.

Tirana is also an excellent base to explore some of Albania’s other major attractions and cities. Tirana is not an expensive city, particularly if you choose to eat and drink at non-tourist sites.

We recommend the following if you have only got one to two days in Tirana:

• Take a walking tour of the city centre. Tirana is a wonderfully walkable city, and a good guide can bring it to life. Tirana Free Tour run free walking tours of the city twice a day.
• Visit the Bunk’Art 2 museum and learn about the history of Albania under the brutal communist dictatorship.
• Admire the views of Tirana from the Dajti Express Cable Car.

Where to stay in Tirana

We stayed in the following hotels whilst in Tirana. They are both centrally located and suited our low budget:

• Freddy’s Hotel: Budget, comfortable and clean. A stone’s throw from Skanderbeg Square. Perfect for a short break in Tirana.
• Hotel Boutique Restaurant Gloria: Slightly more expensive than Freddy’s. A short walk from Skanderbeg Square. An excellent roof terrace with one of the best breakfasts of the trip.

Other hotels and guest houses that caught our eye were:

• Garden B&B: An oasis of calm near central Tirana run by the friendly Albi and Adela.
• Condesa: A spotless guest house run by Erdin and Ann, with a lovely roof terrace and breakfast.

Where to eat in Tirana

During our time in Tirana, we ate at the following spots. We would recommend each of these for a relaxed, budget-friendly meal:

• Lezet: A popular Turkish cafe and restaurant on the main street in Tirana castle. Perfect for a casual meal and a Turkish tea.
• Shije Fshati: A very pleasant family-run restaurant serving traditional Albanian food. Just a short walk from Skanderbeg Square.
• Oxhaket: Excellent Italian restaurant serving a range of pizza and pasta dishes.
• Byrek Te Çastit: Ultra-budget-friendly option for a lunch on-the-go. Fresh Byrek straight out of the oven.

Tirana has enough excellent restaurants to keep you going for months. From seafood to traditional dishes, you will not need to look far to find a great place to eat.

Day Seven: Tirana to Home

On your final day in Albania, there is only one thing for it: enjoying a traditional Albanian breakfast in one of Tirana’s excellent cafes.

Most hotels will allow you to leave your luggage at reception. If you have enough time before your onward journey, we suggest an early morning stroll through the streets before tucking into a breakfast feast.

How to get from Tirana city centre to Tirana airport

There are two easy ways to reach Tirana airport from central Tirana:

• Taxi to Tirana airport: Your hotel or guest house should be able to arrange this.
• The airport shuttle bus: The shuttle bus from central Tirana to Tirana airport leaves from behind the Palace of Opera and Ballet. The journey takes 30 minutes, and a single ticket costs 400 Lek.

So, there you have it. Albania is a fantastic country, and you could easily spend weeks or months here without getting bored. However, we think this suggested itinerary for one week in Albania will help you make the most of your time in this beautiful place.