I gripped the handle a little tighter as our minibus bounced its way up the winding road. We had reached the most exciting part of the journey from the city of Shkodra to the mountain village of Theth, hidden high among the peaks of the Albanian Alps.
Reaching Theth involves a classic journey through the foothills of the range dramatically known as the ‘Accursed Mountains’. The route follows a road which tracks gently up valley floors before climbing steeply, forcing drivers to enjoy (or endure) a seemingly never-ending series of hairpin bends before reaching the summit of a mountain pass.
The views from the pass are a worthy reward for the white-knuckle ride. As we happily snapped away on our fifteen-minute break, it was easy to forget the adage: “what goes up, must come down”. The white knuckles returned with a vengeance as we made our winding descent into the Theth valley.
Gazing out over the sun-soaked valleys beneath us, it was easy to forget that this road is impassable for much of the winter. Indeed, construction crews only completed the final meandering leg of the route to Theth in Autumn 2021. Until then, travellers had to survive the exceedingly bumpy journeys on a track suitable only for 4x4s.
Our ears popped as we descended. On occasion, the road clung to the side of steep cliffs. The crash barrier was all that separated the route from the vertigo-inducing drop beneath us. I glanced out of the window as we turned one particularly sharp corner and saw that we were level with an eagle, floating effortlessly through the sky. As it disappeared from view, I turned my gaze downwards. The first rooftops of Theth had appeared.
Theth: A Spectacular Village
There can be few places in Europe that can boast a setting quite like Theth’s. The village sits at the bottom of a vast glacial valley, located at an altitude of 850 metres above sea level. This comes some sense of scale to its surroundings – a cauldron of jagged mountains whose rocky summits stretch impossibly high into the clouds.
A river, its waters a bright shade of cerulean blue, runs the length of the valley. On occasion, it dapples over the rocks on a seemingly lazy journey downstream. On others, it roars over the side of a dramatic drop, crashing against gigantic boulders that must have plunged from the steep mountain slopes above.
Most of the dwellings in Theth are built in the style of a classic Alpine chalet. The village has firmly established itself on the local tourist trail, and many residents have used this opportunity to make the shift from farming to hospitality. The influx of investment shines through in the conspicuous number of renovations and building projects well underway.
Happily, this development – although noticeable – does not feel overbearing. Indeed, if the land can remain in the hands of the families who have farmed it for generations, this can only be a positive.
A Warm Welcome at the Guesthouse
We had chosen to stay at a typical Theth guest house, an imposing three-storey chalet standing at the very edge of the village. We endured the final stretches of gravel path in our bumpy minivan before bidding farewell to the driver and making our way into the complex of Guest House Dreni.
The location, for us, was perfect. From the second-floor balcony, we enjoyed sublime views down the valley towards the breathtakingly photogenic Theth church, which stands delightfully well against the mountains overhead.
Alvaro – the wonderfully friendly owner – explained to us how he had built the entire guest house himself over four years. His family have lived and worked in the same plot for generations. Cows still roam the field where the guest house stands, and a happy gang of hens scratch around in the shadow of an old wall, providing fresh eggs for the morning breakfast.
Day One: A Hike to Theth Waterfall
For those looking to enjoy the mountain scenery without committing to an arduous ascent, Theth has plenty to offer. One of the most popular hikes takes you a short distance south out of the village, following the route of the river.
Our hike began in dramatic fashion. No sooner had we set off from the guest house than a local youth launched a volley of rocks in our direction. Thankfully, the youth in question could be no older than five, and the stones limped rather than sped toward us. As the child cackled delightedly at our confusion, an apologetic man flapped out of a doorway, covered in paint-smattered overalls and wiping his dusty hands on a brow glistening with sweat.
The flustered decorator scooped the child up with his free hand and gave us a sheepish wave. We smiled and shared a laugh before the pair disappeared back through the doorway, the child still desperately trying to wriggle free and continue his aerial assault.
We skidded down a steep slope towards the main path and followed it towards the waterfalls. Along the way, we passed an unassuming café with a generous garden and made a mental note to call in on our return for refreshments.
Picking our way through the dense blanket of trees whose branches reached out across the rocky path, we made our way to the waterfall. It cascaded down from above, plunging into a shallow pool where crystal-clear waters shimmered in the late afternoon sunshine. A fine mist swirled around us, providing welcome relief from the day’s heat. This little oasis was a perfect spot to relax and cool down.
The humidity increased rapidly on our walk back, and we were relieved when we turned a corner after a rocky uphill section and saw the cafe which we had passed on our way down. Calling in for a much-needed cool drink, we perched on a pair of roughly carved stools and listened to the sounds of the river far beneath us.
A Stormy Evening in the Albanian Alps
We were fortunate to have arrived at the guest house at the start of the season. Just a handful of guests had checked in, and we had the entire second floor to ourselves. The absence of other travellers meant exclusive use of the expansive balcony. With views across the village to the mountains beyond, it was the ideal spot to relax and take in the atmosphere.
By the time we arrived back from our waterfall hike, dark clouds were starting to swirl around the summits of the highest peaks. As the minutes ticked by, the bright blue skies had disappeared, and a curtain of murky grey swept across the valley.
The air was thick with humidity, and it wasn’t long before the first faint rumbles of thunder started to roll down from the distant peaks. We perched ourselves on the balcony just in time to spot the first flash of lightning race across the sky, followed a few seconds later by an almighty crash as the storm announced its arrival with the utmost fury.
Rain began to fall, the first few tentative drops quickly giving way to a cascade of water that slammed against the rooftop and almost drowned out the cacophony of thunder and lightning that raged overhead.
At its peak, the storm was a mesmerising melee of constant lightning, crashing thunderclaps, and the vicious hammering of heavy rain. Almost as quickly as it swept in, however, it was over. The rain dissipated, and the thunder became a distant rumbling once more before falling swiftly silent. The oppressive grey skies and sweat-inducing atmosphere gave way to a bright, fresh early evening.
Day Two: An Amazing Hike to the Valbona Pass
We both agree that the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass was one of the most spectacular hikes we have ever done. It is certainly one of the best things to do when visiting Theth.
The following is the story of our hike. We have also written a practical guide to the hike from Theth to Valbona Pass.
The route had been top of my list ever since I started researching our Albania trip. Hiking from Theth to the village of Valbona is one of the most popular routes in the country. Many travellers will complete it as part of a longer itinerary in the Albanian Alps, combining the hike with a trip on the spectacular Komani Lake ferry.
Our time in Albania was limited. We, therefore, decided against extending our stay by hiking all the way through to Valbona. Instead, we opted to ascend to the Valbona Pass – the highest point of the route at an altitude of 1800 metres – and enjoy the views down both valleys, before returning to our accommodation in Theth on the same day.
Setting off from Theth
We expected the hike would take up the bulk of our day, especially after taking into account the inevitable stops to admire the views and capture a few photographs. As soon as we had finished breakfast, we threw our rucksacks on and headed for the trailhead.
It was a quiet morning in Theth. As we wandered through the village, we passed a handful of other tourists meandering along the dusty track. A small group of children were gathered outside the local school, playing an early game of football before lessons. Next to the river, three free-roaming horses were enjoying a breakfast of long grass and dandelions.
We reached the start of the trail and followed the signpost pointing us in the direction of Valbona. The route quickly became steep, and it didn’t take long for the rooftops of Theth to disappear out of view as we headed into the treeline that wraps around the lower slopes of the mountains.
A thousand metres of ascent took us up through ancient forests, across alpine meadows carpeted in bright wildflowers, and alongside steep gullies where ice-cold water gushed down towards the valley. All the while, the snow-capped summits of the Albanian Alps provided the most stunning backdrop.
The trail was quiet on this particular May morning. A small wooden hut, built in classic Alpine style, was marked as a cafe on the map. With the season yet to begin, the sound of hammer on nail echoed around the trees as the hut came into view.
A small group – perhaps half a dozen – were resting on the benches under the shade of the roof, enjoying a freshly brewed espresso. Today’s hikers were a real international bunch – Czech, British, Irish, German, and Spanish. We stopped for a few minutes to swap stories and itineraries. Most of the travellers were heading to Valbona Pass before returning to Theth, with only one or two opting to head all the way to Valbona.
Encountering Europe’s Most Dangerous Snake
It was not only the relentless ascent towards the pass which got our heartbeats racing. A short while after bidding the group at the cafe farewell and resuming our hike, I spotted a particularly photogenic peak rising high above a steep gully. The great slab of rock leered over us, reminding me of the iconic Three Peaks of the Dolomites range in Italy. The scene was calling out for a snapshot.
Lucy rolled her eyes slightly as I asked her to stand on a small outcrop, with the mountain superimposed in the background. No sooner had I focussed my camera than she darted quickly away with some urgency. “Snake!” was the cry. Lucy pointed at a spot just a couple of metres away from where she had been stood, and I raced up to take a closer look.
Somewhat foolishly, I followed the as-yet unidentified serpent as it slithered away towards the long grass. I caught up with it in time to grab a few low-quality snaps. As the snake disappeared out of sight, we glanced at the pictures. Zooming in, it became clear that this was no benign grass snake. Protruding from the head was a small, angular horn.
A quick check after the hike confirmed that we had come across the Nose-Horned Viper, purported to be the most dangerous snake in Europe. A close call, and a reminder that you do not have to stray too far from the trail to encounter dangerous animals.
After the excitement of the viper, we were somewhat keener to stick to the rocky paths and make our way to the Valbona pass.
Admiring the Views from Valbona Pass
Just before reaching the hike’s highest point, a young American couple came bounding down the trail towards us. To our slight horror, we saw that they were both wearing flimsy sandals and carrying just one tiny rucksack between them, barely large enough to fit a small bottle of water. They had made the ascent from Valbona woefully unprepared and described navigating the trickiest section of the hike – a steep snow patch clinging to the side of the mountain – using a large stick for balance whilst shuffling along inch by inch.
A few minutes later, we reached the top. Stretched out below us was the Valbona valley, flanked on both sides by great grey mountains covered in vast sheets of snow and ice. Our eyes darted from the jagged summits to the lush, green valley floor. A few dozen houses – Valbona village – stood in uneven clusters along the meandering path of the river. The scale was immense.
As our eyes followed the river’s path, we saw that the valley snaked to the right and out of sight. We stood in silence for a few minutes – partly to take in the majesty of the scene, and partly to catch our breaths.
Our solitude came to an abrupt halt as we heard a heavy panting behind us, which transpired to be an intrepid stray dog announcing his arrival at the summit. Klaus, as his adopted group affectionately named him, had followed all the way from Theth, sticking to his new human friends like glue the entire route. He seemed decidedly less excited about the views than his companions.
Between a flurry of photos, we took the opportunity to rest our legs and enjoy the packed lunch our guesthouse had prepared for us. We could happily have stayed up there indefinitely, but as we glanced back toward Theth, we noticed a few grey clouds had started gathering around some of the distant summits. Within a few minutes, the tallest peaks had disappeared from view. A cool breeze began to whisper through the trees beneath us. We both agreed it was time to start our descent back to Theth.
Descending from Valbona Pass to Theth
Casting one last gaze back towards Valbona, we inched our way across the scree and back towards the path. By the time we reached the first tree line, the bright blue skies that had accompanied our ascent were a distant memory. Dark, menacing clouds now filled the sky above our heads. We knew it would be a matter of minutes before the heavens opened.
We heard the rain before we felt it. The first gentle taps on the leaves. The occasional splash as a droplet made its way to the ground. Having seen the speed at which the downpour developed during yesterday’s storm, we were taking no chances. We flung our trusty waterproofs on (our matching Mac in a Sac gear was ideal for this hike) and embraced what came next.
For fifteen long minutes, we endured torrential sheets of rain lashing down on us, breaking through the canopy of branches and leaving us wondering how long it would be before our trail turned into a river. Thankfully, just as with the previous day’s deluge, it was over as quickly as it began.
By the time we reached the alpine meadow, the rainclouds had disappeared from sight, and the afternoon sun was starting to break through. The improved weather put an extra spring in our steps, and the final leg of the trek back to Theth was thoroughly enjoyable. As we turned the corner and reached the home straight, a strategically-located bar was a welcome sight. Before we knew it, we were enjoying a cold drink and toasting a day well spent.
Wandering the Tiny Paths of Theth Village
Theth is a gateway to a heap of fantastic hikes and some of the most dramatic views. However, visitors who shun the opportunity to explore the village itself are missing out.
We loved wandering the subtle but substantial network of footpaths which criss-cross the village. The trails can lead to the most delightful and unexpected of sights. From the lizard, boasting the most vibrant green skin, to the magnificent horses who roamed the paths freely, you never quite knew what you were going to find.
All roads seemed to lead to the church, and it was here that we ended our final exploration of Theth before catching our minibus back to Shkodra. Standing in the shadow cast by the small, square tower, we gazed up in the direction of the Valbona pass. As we did so, a distant rumble of thunder rang out. We nodded at each other, and began our short walk home.
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