Of all the cities in Central Asia, Samarkand barely needs an introduction. People have inhabited the place for millennia, and it grew to be one of the most important sites on the ancient Silk Road.
Thanks to its position as a focal point for trade across Central Asia, Samarkand has long held a reputation as a hub of learning, religion, and culture. Despite repeated invasions – notably by Alexander the Great and Genghis Khan – Samarkand remained a supremely prosperous city.
Many of Samarkand’s most magnificent buildings, crafted thanks to the wealth and knowledge shared along the Silk Road, still stand today. It was the final stop on our journey through Uzbekistan by train, and we couldn’t wait to finally see these wonders for ourselves.
1) Discovering The World-Famous Registan Square
As we stepped off the train from Bukhara, our first challenge was to break through the chaotic wall of taxi drivers battling for our custom. We dodged and weaved our way past the crowd, politely declining all offers. Once through, we made a bee-line for the bus stands. We’d read about the 73 service, which would take us straight into the city centre.
After a short wait, a small bus arrived. Being the start of the route, we were the only passengers on board. We grabbed a couple of seats towards the back, taking advantage of the empty vehicle. However, within a few stops, it seemed like half of Samarkand had squeezed in alongside us. The bus groaned through the heavy traffic towards the city centre whilst we glued our faces to the window, trying to distract ourselves from the rising temperatures with the views of the Samarkand sprawl.
At long last, just as we thought we’d melt into our seats, the road ahead of us opened up. Shortly afterwards, we caught our first glimpse of the opulent, instantly recognisable madrasas which make up Registan Square. The bus came to a stop a short walk away, and, to our relief, most of our fellow travellers piled out ahead of us. There’s nothing worse than having to battle your way through a wall of tired commuters with your backpack.
The fresh air was a blessed relief, and within a couple of minutes, we were staring – probably open-mouthed – at the sight of Registan at sunset. Standing at the top of the tiered steps leading to the centre of the square, we enjoyed a full view of the three famous madrasas lit in soft golden light. Many consider Registan to be the jewel in the crown of Uzbekistan’s Silk Road cities, and it is easy to see why.
Admiring the Madrasas of Registan
The madrasas of Registan stand magnificently around the open courtyard, which was once the very centre of Amir Temur’s gigantic empire. These buildings had previously housed hundreds of scholars, attracted to Samarkand by the city’s reputation as a centre for education. Today the madrasas are primarily home to traders and artisans, who look to sell their wares to locals and visitors alike. The Silk Road is still alive and kicking here!
Registan is at its best once the sun has set. When we visited in early October, the evenings still had a comforting warmth, encouraging locals and tourists alike to stay out in their hundreds. The square and its buildings are sympathetically lit, seeming somehow to glow in the dark. Indeed, it provides the best conditions for capturing the iconic shot of Registan.
We enjoyed exploring almost every corner on our many visits to the square. Unfortunately, however, we were not offered the opportunity to climb the infamous minaret of the Ulugh Beg madrasa. Guidebooks frequently cite the minaret as climbable if you can reach an “understanding” with security. The views from the top are, no doubt, spectacular – maybe next time!
We came back to Registan every day. It’s impossible to tire of the views. On a practical note, there is an entry fee for walking into Registan Square, but the ticket is valid for 24 hours – so keep hold of it to make sure you can experience this stunning location at different times of the day.
2) The Incredible Shah-i-Zinda Mausoleum Complex
The Shah-i-Zinda necropolis was probably our favourite place in Samarkand. Like Registan, we decided to visit multiple times and experience the site in different lights.
The complex is over 1000 years old and centred around the tomb of Quthan ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad. In the centuries that followed, temples, mausoleums and other significant buildings were constructed around the tomb, forming an eclectic architectural masterpiece.
We had imagined that the atmosphere of Shah-i-Zinda would be one of respectful calm. Our first visit, however, didn’t exactly go to plan….
We arrived just after lunch. The sun was beating down, and we’d managed to time our arrival spectacularly. By ‘spectacularly’, I mean we arrived one minute behind a 50-strong coach group of European pensioners. Delightful.
Chaos ensued, with tickets and random currency flying all over the place. Next, the women needed to procure headscarves, resulting in a frantic melee of colourful shawls. Eventually, they were through, and we could present our tickets to the shell-shocked staff.
Deep within the complex, through a series of narrow corridors, is the shrine to Quthan ibn-Abbas. Inside lies his grave, watched over by devotees and pilgrims. Hearing the imam recite a prayer to a packed room, where heads bowed solemnly, was a privilege. At the end of the prayer, the room rose as one, filing slowly out to make space for the next group.
A Solemn Atmosphere in Shah-i-Zinda
Whereas Registan has a somewhat jovial atmosphere, Shah-i-Zinda has undoubtedly retained its identity as a holy site. Despite this, it appears the message hadn’t entirely filtered through to some tourists, who seemed quite happy to strike “for the ‘gram” poses whilst standing on tombstones. Someone has even left a one-star review on TripAdvisor because they weren’t allowed to stage a photoshoot. Of course, Uzbekistan is very photogenic, but this is no excuse for disrespect – particularly in a site as incredible as Shah-i-Zinda.
Our second visit was at sunset when the crowds had dispersed, and we could experience the ensemble at a less frantic pace. There were relatively few tourists, and it was lovely to take our time while wandering around. As with Registan, the golden light of sunset brought out the best of Shah-i-Zinda’s distinctive architecture.
If you have a few days in Samarkand, it’s well worth planning more than one trip to this fantastic spot. We certainly appreciated the chance to explore more on our second visit. We’d take the same approach if we find ourselves in Samarkand again.
3) The Opulent Tomb of Amir Timur
Barely a stone’s throw from our guesthouse was the tomb of the legendary leader and warrior Amir Timur. His mausoleum and family members’ tombs lie within the Gur-e-Amir complex.
Timur is known for his ruthless empire-building during the 14th century. From India to Turkey, millions died at the hands of his armies. Yet, despite the bloodshed of his conquests, Timur’s military prowess has elevated him to national hero status in Uzbekistan. The magnificence of Gur-e-Amir is a testament to the regard in which he has been held over the centuries.
Timur’s curse is one of the most fascinating legends we came across whilst exploring Uzbekistan. A foreboding warning was inscribed on the great leader’s tombstone – he was determined to wield the same fearsome power in death as he did in life.
The tombstone itself states, “When I rise from the dead, the world shall tremble.” But, even more menacingly, inside the tomb are the words, “Whosoever disturbs my tomb will unleash an invader more terrible than I.”
His tomb did, indeed, remain undisturbed for centuries. That was until, in 1941, Soviet scientists decided to cast aside fears of a curse and open the casket.
The passing of the centuries had not diminished Timur’s propensity for fury. Within two days of his body being disturbed, Hitler ordered his troops to invade the Soviet Union. This signalled the beginning of one of the bloodiest periods of World War Two.
Coincidence? Who knows, but Stalin – in uncharacteristic deference to religious notions – wasn’t taking any chances. As the Germans continued to battle towards Moscow, the Soviet leader ordered Timur’s remains to be returned to Samarkand.
A re-burial took place, and Timur was at peace once more. Within weeks, the Russians saw the war turn in their favour with victory at the infamous Battle of Stalingrad. The decision to return Timur to his tomb appears to have paid off…
4) The Amazing Ulugh Beg Observatory
The observatory is an incredible place. It may not be the most spectacular of Samarkand’s historical sites, but it’s undoubtedly one of the most fascinating.
The 15th-century complex is centred around the remarkably intact meridian arc, known as Fakhri Sextant. This incredible piece of engineering is a testimony to just how advanced the Temur empire was, and how much Ulugh Beg valued the sciences above all else. Light would fall on the 40-metre arc, and Beg’s scientists would use the results to make calculations – including the length of a year – to a remarkable degree of accuracy.
Alas, the observatory lasted just three decades before being reduced to rubble. Beg’s obsession with the sciences had led him to neglect some critical facets of being a successful ruler during the Middle Ages – namely winning battles and keeping rivals at bay. In a tale of intrigue and deceit which I cannot possibly hope to do justice in this post, he was ultimately assassinated on the orders of his son, Abdal-Latif.
For those of us who lack the requisite knowledge of astronomy to figure out how the Fakhri Sextant works ourselves, the small museum is a must-visit. The scaled model of the full observatory, as it would have looked back in Ulugh Beg’s day, is particularly impressive.
5) The Enormous Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Arguably the most imposing building in Samarkand is the Bibi-Khanym mosque complex. Indeed, it’s hard to miss its towering presence once you head north from Registan Square. The mosque’s dome stretches a staggering 41m into the sky – an incredible feat for the original 14th-century builders.
Despite restoration efforts during the Soviet era, Bibi-Khanym has not enjoyed the same levels of painstaking rebuilding as, say, the madrasas of Registan. As a consequence, the complex maintains a sense of its dignified age. Yet, from the moss-covered rooftops to the huge cracks in the stonework, the scars of the passing centuries are plain to see.
For us, the Bibi-Khanym complex was another of our Samarkand favourites. Once inside, we never encountered the crowds which can descend on Registan or Shah-i-Zinda. At times, it felt like we had some corners all to ourselves.
Visiting Bibi-Khanym also gave us an excellent excuse to stroll through the adjacent open-air market. Uzbekistan doesn’t do markets by half, and we could have easily spent a whole day wandering the stalls. But, as it happens, we were quickly tempted by the cushioned seats of the market tea house. We then spent a happy couple of hours eating our way through the menu whilst sipping countless bowls of black tea. Perfect.
6) The Fascinating Afrasiyab Archaeological Site
Depending on your outlook, the ancient Afrasiyab site is the least “in your face” of Samarkand’s main attractions. Located between the Bibi-Khanym mosque and the Ulugh Beg Observatory, this patch of dull brown land appears – to the untrained eye, at least – to be relatively unassuming.
However, once you start to look more closely at the mounds of earth and grass, you start to see the outlines of an ancient walled city. Indeed, Afrasiyab’s history stretches back as far as 500 BCE. However, much of what remains at the site dates from the first millennium and beyond.
The ruins can be wandered on foot, although a guide would be helpful to make the most of your visit. A handful of information boards are scattered around but little else to help you distinguish one ruin from another.
If you want to really get to grips with the amazing history of Afrasiyab, then the on-site museum is a must-see. Its walls contain a treasure trove of archaeological finds, which help bring the site to life and give some context to the ground beneath your feet. Particular highlights include a selection of remarkably well-preserved murals depicting scenes of life in the ancient city.
Some final thoughts on Samarkand
Samarkand is a special place. Whether you’re here for two days or two weeks, it will leave its mark. For those who are lucky enough to be able to explore at a leisurely pace, I’d encourage you to take the chance to make repeat visits to these amazing sites.
Marvel at the crowds as they descend on Registan at sunset, before returning at dawn when you’ll have the square to yourself. Join the pilgrims at Shah-i-Zinda, but come back at dusk when a quiet calm has cloaked the site.
It is worthwhile, too, to take stock of the sprawling metropolis built up around these ancient places. Samarkand is a busy city crackling with life, and this contrast with the ancient Silk Road monuments and mausoleums makes a trip here all the more worthwhile.
I’ve got to admit my of ignorance… I had never heard is Samarkand. Gorgeous and evocative photography and lovely read. I now have a handle on the place where I had none before. My favourite photo was the open door shot, btw.
Thanks Martin, so pleased you enjoyed it. We first came across Samarkand whilst watching the first season of the BBC’s “Race Across the World” (recommended!) and were struck by it. Very pleased that we were able to get this trip in before the pandemic. We love that open door shot too – thank you 🙂