“Passports, please!” The police officer wandered over with a kind smile. He extended his hand, beckoning to us.
We fumbled in our pockets and handed over our passports. “Ah, English! Welcome to Kosovo!” The officer beamed as he wandered back to his small guard post, which stood on a dusty lay beside the busy road.
A few metres away, the entrance gates for the Patriarchate of Peć Monastery were tantalisingly close. We had arrived in Peja, Kosovo’s gateway city to the Accursed Mountains, the previous day. Ever since we started planning our latest Kosovo trip, we had been looking forward to visiting this remarkable monastery.
Within seconds, the police officer returned, waving our passports in his hand. “All is OK,” he confirmed. “Have a good day!” He pointed towards the entrance, nodded his head and returned to his post.
It was time to enter the Patriarchate of Peć Monastery.
The following post is based on our own experience of visiting the Patriarchate of Peć Monastery. It serves both as a record of our visit as well as a guide to help travellers who are planning their own trip to Peja and the Patriarchate of Peć Monastery.
History of the Patriarchate of Peć Monastery
Guarding the entrance to the spectacular Rugova Valley, the Patriarchate of Peć Monastery has been a bastion of the Serbian Orthodox Church since the 13th century.
When it was first founded, the Patriarchate of Peć was originally home to Serbian Archbishops. Eventually, the monastery’s importance grew, and it became the seat of the Serbian Patriarchs – the heads of the Serbian Orthodox Church, several of whom are buried in the grounds.
The Patriarchate of Peć remained an important site for Serbian Orthodoxy as the centuries passed. In recent years, the monastery has faced an uncertain future, with regional tensions – most infamously the conflict in the late 1990s – leading to almost all Serbs leaving the area.
Today, around two dozen Serbian nuns live at the Patriarchate of Peć Monastery in relative isolation. The complex is currently under the protection of the Kosovan police and, in a further effort to ensure its future, was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2006.
Despite the tensions, the Patriarchate of Peć is a wonderful – and perfectly safe – place to visit as a tourist. It will likely be one of the highlights of any trip to Peja.
Getting to the Patriarchate of Peć from Peja
Summary: The Patriarchate of Pec is easy to reach on foot from Peja.
It proved very straightforward to find the entrance from the centre of Peja. The Patriarchate lies just outside the main town, tucked away from the main road leading to the Rugova Valley.
From our accommodation, the excellent Doa Boutique Hotel, we made our way to General Wesley Clark Street and walked west. It was a busy morning in Peja, with dozens of schoolchildren hurrying to class, ducking and diving among the steady flow of traffic.
We could already feel the heat of the sun. Despite being mid-October, the heat of the Balkan summer still clung on. I worked up a slight sweat as we made our way to the outskirts of town.
Eventually, we joined the main M9 road, which connects Peja with the rugged Rugova Valley – the gateway to Kosovo’s dramatic Accursed Mountains. Trucks and cars rumbled sporadically by, coughing out dark exhaust fumes and blaring their horns at the slightest hesitation from fellow drivers.
Thankfully, we didn’t need to follow the M9 road for long – we had nearly arrived at the entrance to the Patriarchate complex.
Entering the Patriarchate of Peć – passing through security
Summary: A quick and easy passport check.
Eventually, we left the busy city behind. Before long, we could spot the imposing perimeter wall and tall wooden gates that marked the entrance to the Patriarchate.
The perimeter stretched for a couple of hundred metres into the distance. On the top, aggressive spikes unsubtly warned off any would-be intruders.
The gate at the entrance was open. However, we knew that we had to show our ID to the police who have guarded the Patriarchate of Peć – and other Serbian sites in Kosovo – for many years.
It only took a few seconds of standing around looking slightly lost before the police officer emerged from a small guard box. He wandered over, fixing his hat and greeting us with a warm smile. After a quick passport check and a friendly welcome, he waved us through the gate.
Walking through the grounds of the monastery
Summary: A short stroll through beautiful grounds.
Once you walk through the gates, it’s as if you have entered a different dimension. Outside, the air is full of the sounds of city life and speeding traffic. Passing cars kick up dust clouds. We each had to raise our voices a little to be heard over the noise of the traffic.
The moment we walked through the gate, all this lively chaos disappeared in a flash. No traffic noise. No choking exhaust fumes. A green hillside and the sound of flowing water offered a welcome change.
The road to the main Patriarchate complex runs straight ahead for a hundred metres before gently curving to the right. To the left, a small stream trickled tantalisingly alongside us, the gentle bubbling reminiscent of a garden water feature.
Across the stream, a field of lush green grass glowed brightly in the hazy morning sunshine. A small herd of cows plodded lazily in the distance, flicking their tails and grazing under the shade of tall, broad trees.
To the right of the path, behind a small wire fence, a well-established orchard sprawled out. A handful of birds picked through the remains of the dropped fruit, their feet rustling the leaves that had begun to fall ahead of autumn.
Entering the main Patriarchate of Peć complex
After strolling down the path, we rounded the corner, turning right. Another long, tall perimeter wall stared back at us. Behind the wall, the main Patriarchate of Peć complex awaited.
In the middle of the wall, a small dark green guard booth stood a few metres from the huge arched entrance. There was a guard in the booth. He eyed us up through the glass before nodding us through. We didn’t need to show ID or announce ourselves – we assumed that the guards by the road had radioed ahead.
Two imposing doors mark the entrance to the main complex. One of these doors was open, framing the lush gardens beyond. A couple of information boards provided a basic map of the site and hailed its inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Exploring inside the four-church complex
For visitors to the Patriarchate of Peć, an undoubted highlight is the four churches that together form a striking and unusual connected complex. From the moment you walk through the entrance gate, the church complex is immediately recognisable, painted in a vivid dark red interspersed with the occasional faded fresco.
The complex is made up of three main churches:
- Church of the Holy Apostles
- Church of St. Demetrius
- Church of the Holy Mother of God Hodegetria
You can access all three of these churches via the main entrance, or narthex, which is also beautifully decorated.
A fourth church, the tiny Church of St. Nicholas, stands on the side of the Hodegetria church and can be accessed via a small door on the outside of the complex.
As we approached, a couple of nuns wandered in and out of the main entrance. We stepped over the threshold, leaving the bright sunlight of the garden behind. Inside, the church complex was still and silent, the thick stone walls blocking out any sound from the outside.
Discovering beautiful frescoes inside the church
A faint smell of incense and candles hung in the air. Shafts of sunlight streamed through the windows, illuminating small slivers of the stone walls.
The walls themselves were adorned with frescos. Seemingly, every last inch was covered, painted with dozens of stoic figures from Serbian Orthodoxy whose gazes followed us as we wandered through the building.
We could have spent hours admiring every corner of the walls. The detail of the frescos was extraordinary, and their condition was remarkable, especially considering their age.
At the entrance to the narthex, a small dusty book was packed with messages from visitors who had travelled far and wide. From the USA to Japan, the entire world was represented within its pages. The recurring message from the travellers’ scribbles was one of peace and hope.
Note: Photography is not permitted inside the church complex, and clear signs ask visitors not to take pictures. We do not have any photos from inside, but you can find plenty online.
The bell tower and the souvenir shop
As well as the church, the other focal point for visitors is the tall stone bell tower that stands in the centre of the Patriarchate of Peć complex. Although the tower is not open for visitors to climb, it is nonetheless a delightfully photogenic feature and a real highlight of any visit.
When you approach the Patriarchate of Peć from the main road, the bell tower is the first building you spot. It peeks above the high perimeter walls, offering a tantalising hint of the history and architecture that await.
If you are lucky, the small souvenir shop attached to the tower will be open. Inside, you can choose from a small collection of icons, guidebooks and even handmade items – perfect gifts to remind you of your visit. Usually, the nuns staff the shop. Unfortunately, it was closed during our visit.
Read next: How to spend a day in Gjakova.
Strolling around the grounds of the Patriarchate of Peć
Alongside the impressive architecture and world-class frescoes, the grounds of the complex are a highlight in themselves. The small group of nuns who called the Patriarchate of Peć home are always busy, tending to the flowerbeds, trimming weeds and keeping the stone paths tidy and clean.
Their hard work pays off, with the monastery complex looking utterly pristine, a lush blend of rich green grasses, vibrant red and pink flowers and fruit-bearing trees. When coupled with a deep blue sky, it’s a scene peeled straight from a fairytale.
We saw a handful of nuns in the distance as we wandered the grounds. Some swept the pathways with tall brown brushes, the delicate bristles clearing mud, leaves and freshly cut grass from the grey stone.
As well as the beautifully-tended flowers and lawns, dozens of trees of varying shapes, sizes and species are dotted around the complex. A small orchard, with carefully planted rows of trees, stands just behind the tower.
Read next: Exploring the National Library of Kosovo in Pristina.
Admiring the ancient mulberry tree and waving goodbye
However, the Patriarchate’s most impressive tree stands near the middle, watching over the remains of the ruined 14th-century palace, only the foundations of which remain. The tree is an ancient mulberry, purportedly planted by Serbian Archbishop Sava II during the monastery’s early days over 750 years ago. The tree’s gnarly branches spill out over the grass and the path, twisting and turning under its own weight and age. It’s a magnificent sight.
Behind the tree, a small collection of gravestones stands in a quiet corner of the monastery. Most of the graves in this monastic cemetery are carved in a uniform style – small crosses with well-tended flowerbeds stretched out in front of them.
Once we had explored the grounds, it was time to wave goodbye to the Patriarchate of Peć. A handful of nuns were making their way across the courtyard as we walked toward the exit. We followed the same route back to the entrance next to the M9 road and stepped out into the noise and dust of the day.
Note: Some of the grounds are off-limits to tourists. For the most part, these areas include the administrative buildings for the Patriarchate as well as the nun’s living quarters. There is clear signage informing visitors which sections are out of bounds.
Read next: Discover why Peja is one of the four best cities to visit in Kosovo.
Visiting the Patriarchate of Peć Monastery: how to do it
Nearest hotel: The nearest hotel to the Patriarchate complex is the Benelux, which is just under 2 kilometres away. This sleek, modern hotel offers rooms ranging from generously sized doubles to family suites. Some rooms offer balconies. From £39 a night, including breakfast.
Getting to the Patriarchate of Peć from Peja: The Patriarchate complex is around 2 kilometres from the centre of Peja. The easiest way to reach the Patriarchate of Peć is to walk, which should take a little over 30 minutes. The most straightforward route is to follow General Wesley Clark Street, which will join up with the M9 road leading to the entrance.
Eating and drinking: There is nowhere to eat and drink at the Patriarchate of Peć. However, the popular Te Sharra riverside restaurant is a short walk further down the road. For more information on Te Sharra, see our post on the best things to do in Peja.
What to know about the Patriarchate of Peć Monastery
Entry fee: The Patriarchate of Peć Monastery is free to enter. However, you will have the opportunity to make a donation towards the upkeep of the complex.
Opening times: Although opening hours can vary, we recommend visiting between 9am and 5pm.
Toilets: There is a small, basic toilet block on the edge of the complex. When looking at the front of the tower, take the path on the right-hand side. On your left, you will see a small orchard. On the right, you will pass a handful of maintenance buildings. The toilet block is at the end of the path near the perimeter wall.
Dress code: The dress code for Serbian Orthodox Churches is generally modest. In practice, this typically means no shorts for men. For women, avoid wearing sleeveless tops, jeans and shorts. Some women may choose to cover their heads, although this was not enforced at the Patriarchate of Peć.
This sounds like a wonderful place to visit and very peaceful. Thanks for sharing your visit with us 🙂