When it comes to sunrise in Ohrid, there is only one place to head – the Church of Saint John at Kaneo.
Purportedly dating back to the 13th century and built in Byzantine style, the church is a symbol of the city – adorning every postcard, every brochure and every poster advertising Ohrid. The reason? A remarkable clifftop setting with unbeatable views over the waters of Lake Ohrid.
Saint John at Kaneo looks out over the lake from its rocky vantage point, drawing pilgrims and tourists in their tens of thousands each year. Given its popularity, the church can get crowded during the day. Sunrise, therefore, is the perfect time to visit.
Not only do you get to enjoy the gorgeous golden lighting, but there’s a good chance you will have the place to yourselves.
Here are our favourite spots for a beautiful sunrise stroll around the Church of Saint John at Kaneo in Ohrid. For those seeking photo locations, we have added pins to some of our shots.
3 brilliant sunrise spots at the Church of Saint John at Kaneo, Ohrid
From the classic vista overlooking the lake to a distant view from the clifftop path, here are 3 of the best sunrise spots at Ohrid’s most famous church.
1) From the path leading to the Church of Saint John at Kaneo
This is probably our favourite photo spot for sunrise at the church. The clifftop path, which is the main route from central Ohrid, leads down to the entrance gate. In the background, the distant hills on Lake Ohrid’s western shores provide a stunning backdrop.
We arrived a few minutes before sunrise. There was nobody else around, meaning we could take photos undisturbed.
Below us, the traditional fishing village of Kaneo was still sleeping. A handful of lights twinkled from windows, but the houses were otherwise silent.
After a few minutes of admiring the scene, a solo kayaker slid past, enjoying the opportunity to glide undisturbed along the water before the tourist boats started up.
Top tips: We recommend returning to the path two or three times during your sunrise adventure. Firstly, arriving before the sun appears allows you to enjoy the subtle, pastel colours on the horizon.
Then, a few minutes after the sun rises, the path is the perfect place to enjoy the first light hitting the church.
Note: Due to the mountains surrounding the town of Ohrid, the sun won’t hit the church until a few minutes after sunrise. When it does, it’s already racing high into the sky – it doesn’t take long for the light to get harsh and the temperature to rise.
Photo location: Most of the photos of the church were taken from the path here.
Read next: A guide to the bus between Skopje and Ohrid.
2) Right outside the church
Once you’ve admired the views from the path, it’s time to wander down to the church itself.
The small entrance gate is decorated with an overhead archway. The gate should be open at all times of the day – you can walk through without any problem.
On a busy day, large groups of tourists can make the small courtyard very crowded. At sunrise, however, you stand a good chance of being completely alone.
We only saw two other people – a German couple who spent a few minutes taking photos before heading back toward town.
It was a perfect opportunity to admire the intricate architecture up close. Layers of terracotta bricks piled on top of each other, forming arches that framed the windows and doors.
A small flock of doves fluttered around the church, stopping briefly to sit on the rooftop. Flowers grew around the base of the church. The ancient door was adorned with two small crosses.
Some of the trees were already starting to show their autumn colours. One of them gleamed a bright yellow, draping its branches over two wooden benches with stunning views over the water.
Photo location: These photos were taken around the courtyard surrounding the church.
3) The famous shot: from the rocky slopes overlooking the Church of Saint John at Kaneo
This is the quintessential spot for photographs of the church overlooking Lake Ohrid.
From the courtyard outside the church, follow the short, steep steps leading up the cliff. Once you reach the top of the stairs, turn right. A dusty trail – just a few metres long – will lead you to a rocky outcrop that directly overlooks the church. Here, you will enjoy unrivalled views of the church and the lake beyond.
Long grass grows below you, which you can use as an interesting foreground, along with the steps themselves.
As the sun raced higher up the sky, the people of Ohrid started to stir. A couple of early morning joggers breezed past us, drenched in sweat, techno music thumping from their headphones.
A couple of dogwalkers stopped to admire the view, bidding us a friendly good morning before disappearing into the woodland behind us.
As we left the church behind, we heard the first boat engine splutter into life – a sure sign that the day had begun.
Read next: 20 of the best things to do in Skopje, North Macedonia’s capital.
What to do after watching the sunrise at Saint John of Kaneo
After you’ve enjoyed the sunrise at the church, we recommend walking into Ohrid for breakfast.
Depending on the time of year, some cafes and restaurants will already be open. At the very least, you should be able to find a bakery where you can pick up some pastries and burek.
We went to Bakery Lihnida and picked up fresh burek and apple pastry to enjoy with our coffee.
After grabbing breakfast, we returned to our accommodation via the Ohrid boardwalk. Early morning was a beautiful time to enjoy the boardwalk – we hardly saw any other people. The city was starting to come to life. Ducks and coots floated in the water. A couple of kayaks splashed by. It was a perfect morning.
How to get to the Church of Saint John at Kaneo for your Ohrid sunrise
At sunrise, the only way to get to the Church of Saint John at Kaneo from Ohrid is to walk or cycle. Due to the steep roads, occasional sets of steps and lack of places to leave a bike, we think walking is the best option.
There are two main routes to the church.
Route 1 – picturesque but potentially complicated
The first route tracks alongside the water. It is picturesque but potentially more challenging to navigate.
Firstly, walk through the old town before cutting down to the Ohrid boardwalk. At the other end of the boardwalk, head along the beach, ducking back and forth between alleys until you reach the Kaneo beach at the foot of the church.
When you arrive at the beach, you will see the church standing tall on a cliff above you. From here, you can walk up a steep series of steps to reach the entrance to the church.
Click here for a rough map of the route to the church via Kaneo beach.
Read next: Our guide to the day trip to Tetovo from Skopje.
Route 2 – simple and straightforward
The second route is much more straightforward. We recommend taking this route, particularly at sunrise and especially if you are setting off in the dark.
Firstly, walk through the old town. When you reach the ancient Church of Saint Sophia, follow the road to the right and then turn left until you reach a set of steps. Walk up these steps, then turn left.
Follow the road right to the end. Eventually, you will see the path to the church ahead of you. The road merges with the path, and you can continue your adventure to the Church of Saint John at Kaneo.
Note: The church has no parking, and the nearest roads are steep and narrow. Driving here is best left to the locals.
Click here for a rough map of this easier route to the church.
Read next: Our guide to visiting Skopje Fortress for the best views in North Macedonia’s capital city.
Sunrise at Ohrid: our final thoughts
Whilst there are several excellent viewpoints throughout the city – the fortress and the waterfront come to mind – we think the Church of Saint John at Kaneo is the best place to watch the sunrise in Ohrid.
Being there on a beautiful morning, free from the crowds, is a highlight of any visit to North Macedonia. If we are lucky enough to return to Ohrid, a sunrise stroll to this clifftop church will be top of our list once more.