During our latest trip to North Macedonia, we spent a lot of time in the up-and-coming capital, Skopje. We instantly warmed to the city, enjoying the views from Skopje fortress and the winding streets of the Old Bazaar.
However, we had a spare day in our itinerary and were keen to explore outside Skopje. Eventually, we settled on a day trip to Tetovo, a small city in North Macedonia’s northwest near the border with Kosovo.
Tetovo proved to be an ideal choice, with some unique sights and easy access from Skopje. From catching the bus to making the most of your visit, here’s how to take a day trip from Skopje to Tetovo.
A summary of the day trip from Skopje to Tetovo
Location: Tetovo is in the northwestern corner of North Macedonia, near the border with Kosovo.
Distance: Tetovo is a 52 kilometre (32 mile) drive from Skopje.
The best way to get to Tetovo: For tourists travelling without a car, the best way to travel to Tetovo from Skopje is by bus.
Travel time: The bus journey from Skopje to Tetovo takes around 50 minutes to an hour – perfect for an easy day trip.
Why Tetovo is worth visiting: The highlight of most visits to Tetovo is the remarkable painted mosque. However, we also loved the Bektashi lodge on the edge of the town.
Language: Tetovo is a predominantly Albanian-speaking city.
Travelling from Skopje to Tetovo by bus
The easiest way to get from Skopje to Tetovo is by bus. Buses run from Skopje bus station to Tetovo bus station around twice an hour. If the traffic is good, the bus takes just under an hour to reach Tetovo.
What are the buses like?
Our bus from Skopje to Tetovo was a full-sized coach – 52 seats or so. The seats – a deep red colour – were comfortable, if a little worn. There was ample legroom for the short journey.
A little over half the seats were occupied. It was a sunny day, so many passengers had decided to draw the curtains to keep out the heat.
Depending on the position of the sun, we recommend trying to bag yourself a seat on the left of the coach during the outward journey from Skopje to Tetovo. This offers you the best views of the mountain scenery outside, including a glimpse towards the entrance to the Matka Canyon, another popular day trip from Skopje.
Arriving in Tetovo on the bus from Skopje
When you arrive in Tetovo, you can get off the bus on Marshal Tito Street, which is the main road into the city. Many passengers choose to disembark here, so you can just follow the crowds. Once you’re off the bus, head straight down the road for ten minutes and turn left at the big roundabout to reach the centre of Tetovo.
Alternatively, you can stay on the bus until you reach Tetovo bus station. This will add about ten minutes to your walk to the centre, as the bus station is on the edge of town.
Having failed to gather our stuff in time to disembark on Marshal Tito Street, we stayed on until the bus station. It wasn’t a bad walk to get back to the main road. The cracked pavement took us past a skate park, play area and a small shopping complex before we reached Marshal Tito Street.
Getting from Tetovo bus station to the town centre
The walk from Tetovo bus station to the town centre is, to be honest, nothing to write home about. Marshal Tito Street is busy and dusty, lined with apartment blocks, cafes and restaurants.
Keep an eye out for the House of Culture on your right as you approach the roundabout. In our opinion, this was the most interesting feature on Marshal Tito Street. Outside the angular, grey building, you can find a handful of memorials and statues from Yugoslavian times.
Most people on a day trip to Tetovo from Skopje will be heading straight to the painted mosque. Click here for a walking route from Tetovo bus station to the mosque. The walk is just under 2 kilometres (1.25 miles) and should take 25-30 minutes.
How to organise your day trip from Skopje to Tetovo by bus
Catching the bus from Skopje to Tetovo is nice and easy. Here’s how to do it:
- Make your way to Skopje bus station. This is just a 20-25 minute walk from Macedonia Square in the heart of the city.
- Ask for a ticket to Tetovo. When you arrive at Skopje bus station, you will need to buy your ticket to Tetovo. Head to one of the ticket booths and ask for a ticket to Tetovo. The staff at the ticket booths will appreciate it if you try to speak Macedonian, but don’t worry if you can’t – they all speak enough English. There are regular departures to Tetovo from Skopje – up to three an hour. The easiest thing to do is to ask for the next bus.
- Pay for your ticket. A single ticket for the bus from Skopje to Tetovo costs 200 MKD. We always paid for our tickets in cash.
- Get on the bus. Once you’ve bought your ticket, it’s time to board your bus. Make your way to the entrance to the platforms, show the guard your ticket, and then find your platform. The platform is usually written on your ticket, but you can also ask the guard or the staff at the ticket booth.
- Find your seat and enjoy the journey to Tetovo.
The most important things to know about the buses between Skopje and Tetovo
Here are the key practical things to taking a day trip from Skopje to Tetovo by bus:
- The first bus to Tetovo leaves Skopje at 5.30am. The last bus to Tetovo departs Skopje at 9.30pm.
- There are roughly 25 buses a day between Skopje and Tetovo. From 7am onwards, there are multiple buses each hour.
- A single ticket costs 200 MKD.
For the most up-to-date timetable for the buses from Skopje to Tetovo, click here.
For your return journey from Tetovo to Skopje, simply follow the same process. Arrive at Tetovo bus station, buy a ticket for the next bus and enjoy the ride back to Skopje. For the latest timetables from Tetovo bus station, click here.
Why Tetovo offers an interesting change from Skopje
Taking a day trip to Tetovo is not simply a way to explore a new city. The moment you step off the bus, you’ll notice a significant change from Skopje. Tetovo is one of a handful of places in North Macedonia with a predominantly Albanian population. Every conversation, every street sign, every menu – almost everything is in Albanian.
It hasn’t always been the most straightforward mix. Indeed, 2001 saw an uprising by Albanian insurgents in (what was then known as) the Republic of Macedonia. The uprising eventually ended following a ceasefire agreement, but not before dozens of deaths and many more injuries.
Tetovo was a flash point for the violence. Footage from 2001 shows tanks rolling down the streets and heavy artillery striking the forested mountains above the city. This tumultuous period has become known as the Battle of Tetovo.
Today, the situation is much calmer. Tensions still remain under the surface, but the average traveller need not worry about this affecting their day trip to Tetovo. Nevertheless, it’s worth being aware of the history of the region.
Things to do on a day trip to Tetovo
From the Painted Mosque to the ancient Bektashi lodge, here are five things to do in Tetovo during a day trip from Skopje. Provided you have a few hours to explore Tetovo, there should be plenty of time to enjoy each of the below suggestions.
1) Admire Tetovo’s Painted Mosque
Best for: One of Europe’s most unique mosques.
Most tourists who visit Tetovo are heading there for one reason – to visit the spectacular Painted Mosque. We were no exception, having seen plenty of photos of the mosque’s remarkable exterior.
The Šarena Džamija – known as the Painted Mosque – dates back to 1438. The original structure was designed by the Ottoman governor Ishak Bey and – unusually for the period – was financed by two sisters, who are buried in the garden. The mosque that we see today was rebuilt in 1833 by Abdurrahman Pasha.
As its name suggests, the Painted Mosque boasts opulent painted designs that cover both the interior and exterior of the building. On the outside, the facade comprises dozens of rectangular blocks in a myriad of muted pastel tones and colours.
Inside the mosque, the intricately painted walls show even more detail, whilst a grand old clock stands in the corner and is equally worthy of admiration. When we visited, two men were kneeling together in a semi-private corner.
The men were studying the Quran, staring intently at the pages. The atmosphere was quiet and peaceful, and we chose not to take any photos whilst inside.
How to do it: You can visit the Painted Mosque at any point outside prayer times. Entry is free, although donations are welcomed – there is a box next to the door. You can explore the grounds and gardens, and enter the mosque building.
2) Check out the Čifte Hammam
Best for: An ancient monument turned art gallery.
Next to the Painted Mosque, the Čifte Hammam is another of Tetovo’s most historic and picturesque buildings. Standing next to the sparkling waters of the River Pena, the hammam boasts typical Ottoman architecture and was built to serve worshipers at the Painted Mosque next door.
Today, it hosts a small art gallery, which was closed during our visit. If the gallery is open during your visit to Tetovo, it’s worth looking around. If, like us, you visit when it’s closed, you can still admire the hammam from the outside.
3) Stroll along the River Pena
Best for: Taking in the sights and sounds of Tetovo.
Flowing down from the rugged Šar Mountains that tower over Tetovo, the River Pena slices through the city centre. Next to the Painted Mosque is a small park overlooking the river – a popular spot for people to relax on the grass or sit on a shaded bench under the trees.
Meanwhile, paths and roads lead down the length of the river as it flows through Tetovo. To escape the busy main roads, you can wander down these paths. You’ll find the occasional cafe or grill house, and it doesn’t take long before you reach quieter corners of Tetovo.
Once you’ve walked as far as you want, simply turn around and retrace your steps. Alternatively, it won’t take long before you find a bridge which will allow you to cross over and explore a different route back.
4) Enjoy a drink at the Mulliri coffee shop
Best for: A riverside drink on a summer’s day
Given that we visited on a Sunday, we struggled to find many good places to grab food and drink in Tetovo. At least, there weren’t many that were open or busy.
However, the Mulliri coffee shop next to the river bucked that trend. The cafe occupies a prime position on the corner of the main road next to the river, with views across to the Painted Mosque. Dozens of tables sprawl from the entrance onto the grassy verges above the river.
It certainly looked like the most attractive spot as we strolled past. However, every seat was taken – each table packed with people sipping coffees and enjoying the warm afternoon. For the location and the atmosphere, Mulliri was the pick of the bunch in Tetovo.
5) Visit the fascinating Bektashi lodge
Best for: A fascinating insight into Bektashism
The Bektashi lodge – also known as the Arabati Baba Tekḱe – was the highlight of our trip to Tetovo. Whilst we enjoyed the Painted Mosque, there was something special about the lodge.
The lodge – or tekke – is dedicated to the Bektashi Order of Dervishes, an Islamic Sufi mystic order headquartered in Tirana, Albania, with pockets of followers across Anatolia and the Balkans. The tekke in Tetovo is regarded as one of the leading examples of its kind in Europe.
The lodge, located on the western edge of Tetovo, was a little tricky to find. We walked from the Painted Mosque through a quiet residential area before eventually spotting the stone walls of the lodge.
Inside the grounds of the lodge
At the entrance, enormous wooden gates open out to a vast open space. There were a handful of other groups milling around. A family kicked a ball around under the shade of the trees. A couple of friends posed for a photo shoot beside the patterned stone wall.
At the centre of the complex, the administrative buildings stood empty. Moss grew from the rooftops. Faded paintings and murals adorned some of the walls.
We walked into the courtyard of one of the buildings. A small collection of information boards hung on the wall to our left. Grainy black-and-white photos of lodge events, visitors and figures stared back at us.
Previous visitors had reported meeting the dervish himself, who spoke with them about the lodge’s history and his order. However, we only saw a handful of other people during our visit – the dervish was not one of them.
How to do it: The Arabati Baba Tekḱe is free to enter. You will need to walk just over one kilometre from the Painted Mosque – this should take around 15 minutes. Click here for a walking route from the mosque to the lodge. Note that the entrance gates are at the corner of Lubetenska and Gostivarska.
Three places to grab a bite to eat in Tetovo
There were plenty of places to grab food in Tetovo – from simple grill houses and bakeries to stylish bars and restaurants. During our day trip, we noticed that many of the spots we had picked out were either closed or empty. Admittedly, we were visiting on a Sunday during October – perhaps not the busiest time to make the trip.
Nonetheless, we managed to call in at a few places. Here are three places to get some food on your day trip to Tetovo.
- Patara: A stone’s throw from the Painted Mosque, Patara is a no-frills Turkish restaurant serving generous portions of classics such as lahmajun, pide and kebap. Pizza and burgers are also available, and Patara serves breakfast – mostly omelettes – until noon.
- City Grill: A short walk from the Painted Mosque, City Grill is a traditional ‘qebaptore’ serving local specialities, including (unsurprisingly) kebap. They also serve breakfasts, burgers and salads, whilst you can wash everything down with a traditional Turkish tea.
- Bocata: If, like us, you want to enjoy a final meal in Tetovo before heading back to Skopje, Bocata is ideal. Located on Mashal Tito street, just a 15-minute walk from the bus station, Bocata is a stylish, modern restaurant which was reassuringly busy when we visited on a Sunday afternoon. The menu is international, with every dish generously sized. Service was friendly and efficient, and we were pleasantly surprised by the prices.
Read next: Travelling from Prilep to Skopje by train.
A day trip from Skopje to Tetovo: Our final thoughts
We chose to make the trip to Tetovo because we found ourselves with a spare day at the end of our North Macedonia trip. We felt like we had explored all the main things to do in Skopje, so a day trip seemed like the natural choice.
Given that Tetovo is under an hour away from Skopje and there are regular buses, we wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it to those who have time during their trip.
Truth be told, there isn’t a huge amount to see in Tetovo aside from the Painted Mosque and the Bektashi lodge. However, those two sights in themselves are a compelling reason to make the trip – you won’t find anything like them in Skopje. We left Tetovo with no regrets – it was a day well spent.