On a recent family weekend break, we set our sights on an area that few outside Lancashire seem to know: the Forest of Bowland. Designated a National Landscape (formerly an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty), the Forest of Bowland is often overlooked in favour of its celebrity neighbours – namely the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales. Yet tucked between those busier National Parks, the Forest of Bowland offers a sense of solitude that’s increasingly hard to find on this busy island, a place where rivers carve lonely valleys and the call of curlews rings out over heathered moorland.
We hadn’t done too much advance planning before our weekend away, and we were searching for a walk that would give us a taste of this picturesque landscape, without needing to dedicate a full day to a major hike. Eventually, we landed on our chosen path: the Langden Valley, a green corridor that runs deep into the Bowland fells. Our hike would take us along the side of the valley, finishing at the wonderfully misnamed Langden Castle.
A road into the wild
Even before boots touched the ground, the journey to the trailhead felt like part of the adventure. Turning off at the pretty stone village of Dunsop Bridge – the geographical centre of the British Isles, according to Ordnance Survey – we wound our way into narrowing country lanes. The road clung to the valley’s side, bracken spilling down in thick green cascades towards the dry stone walls flanking the tarmac. Hardy Swaledale sheep nibbled the verges, seemingly unbothered by passing cars.
It’s not an easy drive: single track, relatively sharp descents, and the occasional human obstacle in the form of ramblers who seem convinced that the roads were laid solely for their boots. Normally, I’d be siding with the walkers, but when you’re oblivious of vehicles to the point that a fellow hiker needs to tug you away from the middle of the road, you may need to reassess your spatial awareness.
After a final dip and bend, the little lay-by appeared where we would park up. A handful of cars and a couple of campervans were already settled in, and – inevitably – a tent was pitched optimistically a few metres away from a “No Camping” sign. Less idyllic was the sight of an overflowing bin, its contents fluttering across the grass with scant disregard for the environment. A reminder: the countryside depends on us treating it with care – please take your litter home with you.
Into the Langden Valley
Leaving the grumbles about litterbugs behind, we shouldered our rucksacks and set out. The track towards Langden Valley begins with a touch of grandeur, as if designed to impress new arrivals. Towering conifers form a shaded avenue, and oversized rhododendrons crowd the edges, giving the sense of an eccentric country estate gone feral.
Soon, the trees gave way to stone buildings and the curious workings of Langden Intake, a water treatment complex managed by United Utilities. At first glance, it’s all functional concrete and pipe. But hidden away on the edge of one of the pools is a whimsical surprise: the ‘Intake Nymph’, a carved stone figure poised beside the water, watching over the scene with a knowing half-smile. Installed by engineers in the mid-20th century, she has become a minor legend of the Forest of Bowland – a touch of myth in an otherwise utilitarian place.
But it wasn’t the Nymph we had come for. Beyond the intake, the trail curves round a corner and unfurls into the Langden Valley proper: a long, sweeping wildness where the only sound is the chatter of Langden Brook as it threads its way across the floor. The gravel track runs alongside, sometimes dipping towards the water’s edge near the intake, but otherwise climbing up the sides to give a wider view.
Despite it being August – the height of the British summer holidays – we saw only five other people in the entire valley. For most of the walk, it felt like we had the entire Forest of Bowland entirely to ourselves. We meandered along the valley, admiring the heather, which was entering a magnificent bloom, smothering the slopes in rich purple and turning the valley into a sublime patchwork of colour.
Reaching the castle that isn’t
After just over two miles, the valley deepens, and on the valley floor sits the remains of Langden Castle. Do not expect battlements, a portcullis, or any hint of royalty. The “castle” is, in fact, a sturdy stone shooting lodge, built in the 18th century to serve the great sporting estates of Bowland.
For centuries, this upland landscape has been managed for grouse shooting. Wealthy businesspeople and landowners would travel north for the season, filling the lodges around Bowland with guns and dogs. The moorland itself was – and remains to this day – carefully managed to maximise grouse numbers, burning heather in rotation to provide a patchwork of landscapes for feeding and shelter. The walk in the Forest of Bowland is to walk through a landscape shaped as much by countryside sport as by nature. On our drive back from our day in the Langden Valley, we even heard the distinctive pops of gunshots ringing out over the hills.
Langden Castle was one of many lodges scattered through the Bowland fells, but today it stands empty: its ruins weathered but solid, its windows and doors boarded up with metal sheeting. For us, it made the perfect waymarker on our hike.
A failed crossing of Langden Brook
At this point, a few of us decided to attempt a longer route back to the car park that would have taken us over the top of a nearby hill. The first hurdle came immediately – we had to cross Langden Brook. We had read a couple of guides online that suggested the crossing would be relatively straightforward during a dry spell of weather. It was the height of an unusually warm and dry British summer, so we thought it would be easy enough to pick our way across the water.
How wrong we were. We patrolled up and down the riverbank, even finding our way onto small rocky islands in the middle of the river. But to no avail – the water never quite shallow enough to step into, or the distance never quite small enough to leap across. After 10 minutes of scouting, we decided to accept defeat and return the way we came.
Returning to the car at Langden Brook
Walking back down Langden Valley, we talked about how the Forest of Bowland might just be the quietest corner of England. It doesn’t quite have the drama of the Lake District or the ruggedness of the Yorkshire Dales, but its rolling hills and relative isolation make it a place of understated beauty. It’s not like it’s difficult to get to, either – it almost hides in plain sight.
We returned back to the car, retracing our steps as dark, ominous clouds gathered behind us. We sensed a deluge, but the rain held off until much later that afternoon, when it lashed against our holiday house in horizontal sheets. En route to the car park, we waved at the Intake Nymph before finishing our walk along the avenue of trees, stopping to admire some sleepy sheep who had settled in for the afternoon just over the fence.
Upon returning, the car park was still quiet – everyone else must have flocked north to the shores of Windermere or east to the tourist hotspots of Malham and Burnsall. Meanwhile, the Forest of Bowland remained quiet all day, with sheep outnumbering cars as we drove back for lunch.
How to walk the Langden Valley
Start and Parking
The walk up the Langden Valley begins at Langden Brook car park, a small lay-by at the end of Langden Brook Road, which is accessed from Dunsop Bridge. Parking is free but limited – we recommend arriving early, especially on weekends.
Apparently, there used to be a food truck that would set up here, but there was none to be seen when we visited.
The route to Langden Castle
Distance: The walk along the Langden Valley from the car park to Langden Castle is just under 2 miles.
Difficulty: Easy to moderate. It’s mostly level, albeit with small amounts of prolonged but gentle incline.
Time: Around 2-2.5 hours with stops.
Essentials: Sturdy walking shoes – ideally waterproof, since the track can be wet. A bottle of water (at least a litre). Sunscreen for hot days.
Where to stay near the Langden Valley
If you’re looking to extend your stay in the area, there are a few options nearby:
- The Inn at Whitewell: A historic riverside inn a short drive away. Popular for its food, views and countryside charm – it’s a lovely spot.
- Dunsop Bridge: This lovely village has a couple of B&Bs, holiday lets and the ever-popular Puddleducks Tea Rooms for pre- or post-walk refreshments.
- Clitheroe: A 20-minute drive away, Clitheroe is a lively market town with plenty of accommodation options, from guesthouses to boutique hotels.
Read next: Hiking up Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) at night.
Top tips for the walk to Langden Castle
Based on our experience of the route, here are some of our top tips for making the most of it:
1: Facilities are limited: There are no toilets, no cafes and generally no facilities anywhere along the trail. It’s just you and the wild valley. Plan accordingly!
2: Take your litter home with you: The Forest of Bowland’s relatively untouched beauty relies on visitors being responsible. Leave no trace.
3: August is peak heather season: This month is when the heather is at its best, painting the moors in vivid purple.
4: Wildlife: If you’re quiet and lucky, you may spot rare birdlife along the way: hen harriers, lapwing and curlews among the highlights.
The walk along the Langden Valley: Our final thoughts
We came to the Forest of Bowland with no real expectations – it wasn’t an area that we were familiar with at all. We left very impressed indeed, and eager to return to explore more of the area. It’s not often you can head off on a summer hike in the UK and hardly encounter anyone else; this walk was an excellent find…but don’t tell too many people!