In August 2022, the UK experienced a rare summer heatwave, with temperatures reaching over 34°C. I had booked a weekend in Eryri National Park – also known as Snowdonia – to enjoy some hiking in the Welsh mountains. I would be staying at the YHA hostel at Pen-y-Pass, under the shadow of Yr Wyddfa – Snowdon – the highest mountain in Wales.
With daytime temperatures far too hot for serious exercise, I decided to take the opportunity to embark on an overnight hike up Snowdon. Armed with a headtorch, plenty of water and my camera, I set off from the YHA at around 02:20am.
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Starting my night climb of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon) on the Pyg Track
My alarm had rung 20 minutes earlier. Resisting the temptation to slam the snooze button, I slid out of bed and threw on the clothes I had laid out the night before, pushing all thoughts of my lack of sleep out of my mind.
Somewhere in the recesses of the hostel’s dark corridors, I could hear one or two other people moving around. Otherwise, the whole building was still and silent. I quietly unlocked the front door, flicked my headtorch on, and began to walk.
A bright moon hung in the night sky, casting a pale silver glow across the dramatic landscape of Eryri National Park. A myriad of looming mountains dotted the horizon. Crib Goch and Yr Wyddfa rose in front, Glyder Fawr behind me. Each summit stood silhouetted against the night sky, their dark shadows making them appear somehow taller in the low, murky light.
I crossed the A4086 road, which would be humming with the constant drone of cars as soon as the sun rose. Pen-y-Pass car park had a smattering of vehicles, but was otherwise blissfully quiet. I weaved my way between the parked cars and set off along the Pyg track.
Why I chose the Pyg Track for my overnight hike up Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon)
There are six main routes up to the summit of Yr Wyddfa. Two of these – the Miner’s Track and the Pyg Track – leave from Pen-y-Pass car park. I chose the Pyg Track for the following reasons:
- Firstly, the Pyg Track offers a more gradual, consistent rate of ascent than the Miner’s Track. We were in the middle of an oppressive heatwave, and even in the dead of night, it didn’t take much to work up a sweat. The Miner’s Track has a couple of intense, steep sections towards the end, which I did not want to tackle as the sun – and temperatures – rose.
- Secondly, the Miner’s Track takes you straight past some of the most stunning lakes in Eryri (Snowdonia) National Park. I made my way back down the Miner’s Track in the daylight, allowing me to enjoy the scenery.
Those familiar with the Pyg Track will know that it is also the gateway to Crib Goch. This infamous knife-edge ridge is the most dramatic route up to the summit of Yr Wyddfa.
Tempted as I was by the windless conditions, I chose against tackling Crib Goch on this occasion. I was carrying all my kit, ready to head straight to Bangor train station after the hike. With a heavy bag, I didn’t want to risk unbalancing myself. The ridge would have to wait.
Walking up the Pyg Track in the dead of night
A bright moon shone overhead as I made my way along the Pyg Track. My headtorch did the rest of the work, its dazzling beam slicing through the darkness to illuminate the rocky path ahead of me.
The night was perfectly still, with not even a hint of a breeze. My footsteps seemed to bounce and echo off the rocky slopes, each crunch of boot against gravel amplified tenfold.
My route climbed up the side of a small hill, running parallel to the A4086 road beneath me. Eventually, it looped around a corner towards the start of the Crib Goch climb.
Before turning the corner, I stole a glance back towards the car park. One single headtorch bounced up and down in the darkness, mirroring the footsteps of a hiker far below. On a night as perfect as this, it came as little surprise that I wasn’t alone on the mountain.
Passing Crib Goch and stumbling across sheep
I continued along the Pyg Track, gingerly making my way over a small stream before eventually reaching the gate that leads to Crib Goch. The path to the infamous ridge disappeared steeply into the darkness above me. Resisting the temptation to throw caution to the wind and change my plans, I pressed on along the Pyg Track.
As I continued the relentless plod uphill, the beam of my headtorch reflected off a pair of startled eyes. The eyes blinked, confused, before disappearing in a flash of white. My skittish friend was a sheep, rudely awakened from its slumber.
Eventually, the Pyg Track merged with the steep Miner’s Track that zigzagged its way up from the ominous black waters of Glaslyn below. Moonlight glistened off the perfectly still surface of the mountain lake.
I could see a handful of head torches scattered below me, the pinpricks of light bobbing along to the rhythm of their wearer’s steps. Above me, more head torches twinkled silently on the final stretch to the summit. Every so often, a loud laugh or the crunch of a dislodged rock carried on the breeze and echoed off the steep slopes. I was approaching the final leg of the journey to the summit.
One last steep stretch
After merging with the Miner’s Track, the route to the summit rises steeply through a slope scattered with scree. Great slabs of stone pave the way, weaving and winding through the landscape. At one stage, the path cuts across a particularly dramatic stretch of scree, and a sturdy stone barrier provides protection – and a makeshift bench – as you complete the final push towards the top.
On an average daytime hike, this last leg can be a bottleneck, with groups of hikers stopping to catch their breath, ready to tackle the final ascent. At this unsociable hour of the night, however, I had it all to myself.
Arriving at the tracks of the Snowdon Mountain Railway
The steep section of the Pyg and Miner’s Tracks ends as soon as you reach the col of Bwlch Glas. Marked by a stoic standing stone, the views from here – on a clear day – are magnificent.
Even on this dark summer’s morning, the moon shone brightly enough to give a sense of the landscape below. Rolling hills dotted the landscape, which eventually became impossibly flat as it stretched towards the horizon.
Right in front of me, the tracks of the Snowdon Mountain Railway led up the hill towards the summit of Yr Wyddfa. When I completed my hike, the famous railway was still closed for upgrades. However, it has since reopened, and it now provides a charming way to reach the summit from the nearby town of Llanberis.
I followed the tracks until, finally, Yr Wyddfa’s summit trig point came into view.
Reaching the summit of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon)
Yr Wyddfa’s summit has an enviable reputation as overcrowded, with infamous images of long, snaking queues for the trig point on busy summer weekends.
There was no gargantuan queue at 04:30am on this Sunday morning, but I still had to wait a minute or so before the small group in front of me finished their photo shoot.
A few hikers had already settled in for sunrise, sitting on the slopes and tucking into an early breakfast. I wiped a few beads of sweat from my forehead – it was still very warm – and decided to find a spot away from the crowds.
Enjoying sunrise over Eryri National Park from Crib Goch
I headed over towards the Crib Goch ridge, banking on the assumption that most people would want to be on the summit as the sun rose. It didn’t take long to find a good spot, with views across towards Llanberis and back towards the summit of Yr Wyddfa. I unpacked some snacks and settled in.
A car engine revved and spluttered far below as the first hints of crimson red appeared on the horizon. It didn’t take long before golden light started appearing, flooding into the valley.
Beyond me, I could see distant silhouettes of hikers picking their way carefully across the rocky ridge of Crib Goch. Some paused for photos, making the most of the glorious conditions.
I spent the next hour enjoying the sunrise, getting accosted by energetic mountain goats, and taking excessive numbers of photos. Here are some of my favourites.
The descent from Yr Wyddfa to Pen-y-Pass
Given that we were in the middle of a heatwave, I had set myself a cut-off point for my return to Pen-y-Pass.
The moment the first ray of sun hit my face, I began to pack my things and start my descent. Having come up the Pyg track, I chose to take the Miner’s Track down the mountain.
This route proved to be a great choice, with the lakes of Glaslyn and Llyn Llydaw looking like mirrors on the perfectly still morning. A few birds sang and chirped, but otherwise the day was perfectly silent.
I passed the remains of the old Britannia Copper Mine, including a crumbling crushing mill. It was already getting busier, with the first wave of families making their way along the well-maintained path. Across the water, a couple of campers packed their tent and set off for the car park.
Wrapping up the hike as the temperatures rose
By the time I approached the Pen y Pass car park, a steady stream of hikers were making their way up the Miner’s Track. It was barely 7am, and yet the car park was mostly full. It was already stiflingly warm.
Most people seemed sensibly equipped for the hot conditions. Next to open car doors, I saw plenty of walkers slapping on thick layers of sunscreen. A small queue of people waited to top up their water at the free taps near the visitor centre.
However, I did pass a handful of hikers who seemed worryingly ill-prepared for the heatwave. Some had tiny backpacks barely capable of holding a 500ml bottle of water. Others had no backpack at all. I even saw someone setting off wearing jeans. The mind boggles.
As I stood under the baking sun waiting for my Snowdon Sherpa bus, I was pleased to have completed my hike in the relative cool of night.
A Night Climb of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon): how to do it
From picking the right route to packing equipment and choosing clothing, here’s how to set off on your own night climb of Yr Wyddfa.
Choosing your route
From Pen y Pass car park, you can choose from three routes to reach the summit of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon):
- Crib Goch via the Pyg Track. Crib Goch is a knife-edge ridge with extreme levels of exposure. It should only be attempted by those with lots of experience in the hills, a head for heights and an aptitude for scrambling. I would not recommend it to most people.
- Pyg Track. My recommended route for the ascent from Pen-y-Pass to Yr Wyddfa. The Pyg Track offers the most gentle rate of ascent and (in my opinion) is less scenic than the Miner’s Track, making it a perfect choice for an overnight climb in the dark.
- Miner’s Track. Historically used by those working in the mountain’s copper mines, hence the name. The Miner’s Track passes next to two picturesque mountain lakes, making it the perfect choice for your descent after the sun has risen.
For a night hike up Yr Wyddfa, I recommend ascending via the Pyg Track and descending via the Miner’s Track.
Packing the right equipment for Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon)
If you’d like to head off on your own night climb of Yr Wyddfa, make sure you’ve got suitable kit. Despite its reputation as a tourist attraction, this is a serious mountain, and hiking it in the dark adds an extra element of risk.
I recommend packing the following:
- Head torch. This is crucial for any night climb. Make sure to pack spare batteries.
- Water. Bring at least 2 litres of water, and more if you can spare it. Particularly during a heatwave, you need to make sure you are well hydrated.
- Cap. Useful for keeping the worst of the sun off your face when it rises.
- Sunscreen. Factor 50 all the way.
- Coat. No matter the weather forecast, I always take a waterproof. You can decide for yourself whether you need a lightweight or heavy-duty coat. On my hike, I brought my super light Mac in a Sac.
- Portable charger. I rarely leave home without my portable charger these days, and it can be priceless when out in the hills.
- Map. It’s always good practice to carry a map, even on a mountain as busy as Yr Wyddfa.
- Windproof layer. You never know what the conditions will be like at the top. A thin, windproof layer could make all the difference.
- Gloves. You might not need them, but they can be invaluable if the weather at the summit is cooler than you expected.
- Snacks and food. You’ll burn plenty of calories heading up a mountain like Yr Wyddfa. If you are hiking overnight, the summit cafe will be closed, so make sure to carry a generous supply of snacks and sandwiches.
What to wear for a night climb of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon)
When it comes to clothing, what you wear will depend on the conditions. Here’s what I wore on my overnight climb of Yr Wyddfa:
- Hiking shorts. Truth be told, I rarely wear shorts for hiking. However, this weekend was just too warm – even in the early hours of the morning. If it were cooler, I would have opted for trousers.
- Lightweight base layer. I set off in a standard Mountain Warehouse t-shirt – perfect for warm weather like this. Incredibly, a t-shirt was the only layer I needed whilst walking, even in the dead of night.
- Jumper. I kept a trusty Rab jumper at the top of my bag that I put on whenever I took a break. It would have been too hot to hike in, but I didn’t want to get too cold when standing still.
- Hiking shoes. Given the paths up Yr Wyddfa are rocky and well-trodden, you can comfortably wear hiking shoes rather than hiking boots. However, this is personal preference – you may prefer the extra support offered by boots.
Check the weather before you set off
No matter the conditions or the time of year, you should always check the weather forecast before setting off on a hike like this.
My favourite sources for mountain weather in the UK are:
Even in a heatwave, it’s important to check for any last-minute changes to the forecast. At some point, the heatwave will break – usually with a storm. The summit of Yr Wyddfa would not be a good place to be during thunder and lightning.
Accommodation for a night climb of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon)
If, like me, you are travelling to Eryri National Park by public transport, then there is one place I highly recommend:
- The YHA Snowdon Pen-y-Pass is perfect for a night climb up Yr Wyddfa. It’s a youth hostel, so the accommodation is basic, but I found it to be comfortable, friendly and excellent value. You can either choose to get a bed in a shared dormitory (from £18 a night) or book a private room (from £40 a night). The Pyg Track and Miner’s Track are less than a minute from the hostel’s front door.
Alternatively, you could base yourself in Llanberis and drive to the start of your preferred route. Popular options in Llanberis include:
- Lodge Dinorwig: A classic bunkhouse-style hostel near Dinorwig Slate Quarry above Llanberis. Great views over the mountains and just a short walk into Llanberis itself. Beds from £41 a night, including breakfast.
- Dolafon Guest House: Just a short walk from the Snowdon Mountain Railway station, Dolafon is one of the best guest houses in Llanberis, with comfortable rooms, friendly owners and a pleasant garden perfect for post-hike relaxation. Rooms from £70 a night, including breakfast.
Read next: Hiking around a misty Lake Saint Anna in Romania.
Guided night walks up Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon)
If you would like an experienced guide to take you up Yr Wyddfa, Manawa offers sunrise hikes that are perfect for an unforgettable adventure in the Welsh mountains. The standard route for groups begins in Llanberis, although you can also organise private trips on a route of your choice – ideal for tackling the Pyg or Miner’s Track from Pen-y-Pass.
Getting to Eryri National Park for your night climb
Most people choose to drive to Eryri National Park and Yr Wyddfa. If you want to tackle the Pyg Track and Miner’s Track, this means parking in Pen-y-Pass car park. Be warned – the car park fills up quickly. It was already full when I was there, just after 7am. You can reserve your parking space online. It is also expensive, with a ticket costing £20 for the day.
Whatever you do, don’t just park on the side of the road. It blocks access for emergency services, it tears up the landscape and it just isn’t the right thing to do. There are plenty of alternatives, including public transport.
Read next: An accidental hike in the Tatras Mountains of Slovakia.
Reduce the strain on Eryri’s roads by taking public transport
Thankfully, Eryri National Park is easy to explore by public transport. This is exactly what I did, and I found it to be a hassle-free way to visit the area. Sure, you might lose out on some of the flexibility that comes with having your own vehicle, but it’s a small price to pay for not having to worry about parking spaces on a busy summer weekend.
Bangor train station enjoys direct connections to Chester, Birmingham, Cardiff and beyond. From here, you can connect to the likes of Caenarfon, Pen-y-Pass, Beddgelert, Llanberis and Betws-y-Coed via the excellent Snowdon Sherpa bus network. I can’t recommend these buses enough – they are an ideal way to enjoy a sustainable break in the Welsh mountains.
Read next: A guide to the wonderful walk between Arnside and Warton.
A night climb of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon): Our final thoughts
I’ve been lucky enough to hike up Yr Wyddfa a few times over the years. It’s always been busy, but I’ve never known it to be as crowded as it has recently become. The heatwave gave me the perfect excuse to try my first night climb of Wales’s highest mountain, and it couldn’t have gone better.
The YHA Pen-y-Pass was the perfect base, and the Pyg Track + Miner’s Track circular was the ideal route. I wholeheartedly recommend a night hike as a brilliant ‘alternative’ way to enjoy Yr Wyddfa without the crowds. Keep an eye out for the next heatwave and book your travel – I might just see you at the top.