“That’s it, I’m done. If you need me, I’ll be inside,” yelled the girl next to me whilst her boyfriend wrestled with his wafer-thin waterproof coat, which flapped and flailed as the wind and rain lashed down on our small boat. Just five minutes before the deluge, a dozen or so passengers had been basking in the warm glow of a low autumnal sun, with a smattering of dark clouds on the horizon the only indicators that the weather was about to change. Such is life in the Scottish Highlands as summer slips away.
Almost two years to the day since we made the drive from Loch Lomond to Fort William as part of our Scotland road trip, we were once again returning to this most spectacular part of the UK. Having been blessed with unseasonably warm, sunny skies on our last visit, the forecast for our weekend in Fort William was looking decidedly dodgy as we threw our backpacks on and made our way to the train station. It was time to head back to the Highlands.
Please note: our accommodation for this trip was gifted to us by Highland Holidays. Opinions and recollections of the trip are our own.
A wet and windy journey from Glasgow to Fort William
The West Highland Line is one of the finest stretches of railway anywhere in the UK. It stretches over 160 miles from the busy streets of Glasgow to the sleepy fishing village of Mallaig, where many travellers will continue their journey by ferry to the Isle of Skye. An alternative leg, forking off at Crianlarich, takes passengers to the seaside town of Oban.
Those lucky enough to travel the length of the West Highland Line can gaze across the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, marvel at the bleak expanse of remote Rannoch Moor and experience the ever-popular crossing of the Glenfinnan Viaduct. It is the best of Scotland packed into a railway journey – no wonder it ranks so highly among train aficionados.
Our final destination on this year’s West Highland railway adventure was Banavie, a small village on the shores of Loch Linnhe, just one stop further down the line from Fort William. From here, a brisk 25-minute walk would take us to Ben Nevis Holiday Park, our base for the weekend. We couldn’t wait to get started.
Excitement was in the air as we boarded the 08:21 Scotrail service at Glasgow. Although the peak summer season had ended a few weeks prior, we were pleased to see the carriage busy with travellers from across the globe looking to enjoy an autumnal adventure through Scotland. The overhead racks were crammed full with hefty backpacks, and the clattering of hiking poles filled the air as the final groups rushed through the doors in the minutes before departure.
And we’re off…exploring The West Highland Line
The sky turned darker, and the rain became heavier as we pulled away from Glasgow. It didn’t take long for the city skyline to slip away from our view, replaced by our first glimpse of murky water as we sped along through Dumbarton and up to the town of Helensburgh.
From Helensburgh, the line snakes northwards along the shores of Loch Long, offering a first glimpse of the mountainous scenery to come. On a clear day, the views are sublime. This morning, however, the peaks of the Arrochar Alps – as the local summits are affectionately known – were hidden behind a thick bank of grey cloud that obscured the full majesty of the area.
After crossing the isthmus between the villages of Arrochar and Tarbet where, a millennium ago, Viking raiders had once dragged their longboats ready to terrorise the villages on Loch Lomond, we came to an abrupt halt at Ardlui station. Thick, heavy rain bounced relentlessly off the deserted platform as we waited for two, five, ten minutes. Eventually, an announcement crackled almost inaudibly over the tannoy – the weather had brought a tree crashing down onto the line ahead of us, and we were stuck.
Surrounded by thick forests, there were worse places to be stranded than Ardlui. A resigned silence descended on the train, with many passengers taking the opportunity for a quick nap after the early departure. Finally, after nearly an hour, during which the rain barely abated, the engine spluttered into life, and we resumed our journey to Banavie.
Crossing Rannoch Moor and arriving at Fort William
Whether it’s a night train in the Caucasus or a train and hike in the Peak District, we think it’s hard to beat the romance of a journey by rail. On this occasion, we were particularly looking forward to reaching the vast expanse of bleak wilderness that is Rannoch Moor.
Rannoch Moor is an area of true wilderness. Surrounded by some of Scotland’s finest mountains, the moor is a huge expanse of bogs, lochans and waterways that offer unparalleled adventure and seclusion. The West Highland Line snakes its way across Rannoch Moor for over twenty miles, giving passengers a real sense of the immense scale of this windswept wonder.
The moody weather on this particular morning lent itself splendidly to the occasion. As the carriage’s ancient heating system worked overtime to battle the chill, we peered out of the rain-splattered window and saw…nothing.
In the distance, the faint shadows of tall peaks leered through the gloom. Occasionally, a patch of tall green trees flashed past us. Grey bodies of water – from tiny lochans to overflowing streams – made an occasional appearance. Otherwise, the moor was as gargantuan and featureless as legend made out.
On one rather bleak stretch, we glimpsed the crumbling ruins of an old crofter’s house standing impossibly isolated in the midst of the wilderness. Its roof had long since disappeared, but the silhouette of doors, windows and a chimney stood out against the swirling rain. Just as the ruin disappeared out of sight, the train began to slow ahead of our arrival at Rannoch station.
Rannoch station is one of the UK’s most remote, standing nearly 20 miles from the nearest village. It is home to a small tearoom offering much-needed refreshments to the hardy hikers who have braved the wilderness of the moor. As we pulled in, the platform was deserted. Not a soul boarded the train, and nobody got off. We departed almost as soon as we arrived.
No sooner had we left Rannoch Moor behind than the sky began to brighten. A few glimpses of blue sky heralded a jovial mood in the carriage. The high spirits were short-lived, however, as an announcement informed us that the train was to terminate at Fort William, unable to carry on to Mallaig. The weather, it would seem, was determined to have the last laugh.
Our Hosts: Highland Holidays Ben Nevis
We had been invited by Highland Holidays to stay in one of their Highland Pods, described as “a completely self-contained and flexible pod packed with innovative features”. Promising a cosy base for exploring the surrounding area, our stay in the park certainly delivered the goods.
The Ben Nevis Holiday Park is tucked away on the edge of Fort William, overlooked by the great hulking mass of Ben Nevis itself, the UK’s tallest mountain. With a range of pitches for both tents and caravans, along with a range of lodges and pods, this is a park that can cater for all tastes and budgets.
Our walk to the holiday park took us along the first section of the Great Glen Way, a long-distance hiking trail that stretches for 79 miles from Fort William up to Inverness. As the name suggests, the path tracks down the length of the Great Glen, taking in magnificent views of the mountains, lochs and rivers that criss-cross the landscape.
Our time on the Great Glen Way would be rather brief, however. After passing the home of Fort William’s shinty club and waving to the crumbling walls of Inverlochy Castle, we crossed over the River Lochy and entered the home straight. Before long, the park came into view – we had made it.
A warm welcome greeted us at the holiday park. I suspect they don’t get many visitors who travel by public transport for a weekend stay, and our bedraggled appearances probably betrayed the length of our journey. Still, all hardships were quickly forgotten as we took in our surroundings and marched off to check out our home for the next two nights.
Our Accommodation: The lovely Highland Pods
The Highland Pod proved to be a real treat. From the moment we stepped through the doors, we were mightily impressed. Newly built, the pods certainly delivered on their description of a relaxing space packed with innovations.
Having stayed in a range of glamping accommodation over the years, we both agreed that this was up there with the best of the lot. Every little detail seemed to have been intricately planned, from the well-equipped kitchen with its fridge-freezer and top-quality hob to the supremely comfortable beds complete with convenient phone stands and charging points.
Over the course of the weekend, we found the space inside to be perfect for a couple’s break. Meals were easy to rustle up and enjoy on the small table, whilst a generous range of teas and coffees were ideal for a morning pick-me-up whilst curled on the sofa and soaking in the views.
The bathroom, too, was a generous size – especially considering the relatively small footprint of the pod. Water temperature and pressure – two things you can never guarantee in accommodation like this – were spot on. The use of Highland Soap Company products was a nice nod to the locality, and a welcome touch of luxury when jumping in the shower at the end of a long day.
Read more: The best things to do in Fort William without a car
Exploring the Highland Holidays Ben Nevis Park
After our long journey, and given the changeable weather, it was tempting to set up shop in our lovely pod and watch the hours slip away whilst admiring the view. However, with surroundings as sublime as these, it didn’t take too long before we were locking the door and heading out to explore.
The banks of the River Lochy from the park
Few stretches of riverbank can boast views quite like the small stretch of the River Lochy which flows alongside the holiday park. Within sixty seconds of leaving our pod, we were stood by the ice-cold waters as they raced towards Fort William.
Across the river, the dramatic north face of Ben Nevis towered above us. Clouds slipped silently and speedily over the upper slopes, the only indicator of the potentially wretched conditions near the mountain’s summit.
Down where we stood, a gentle breeze blew through the trees, and a handful of autumnal leaves floated to the ground. In some distance treetops, the cry of a large bird caught our attention.
The Fort William area is blessed with a population of iconic golden eagles, and this bird’s silhouette was unmistakable. The eagle was not alone, with a single brave bird – possibly a crow or similar – trying desperately to chase it away. We never saw the conclusion as both figures swooped and dived behind the treeline and out of sight.
After the excitement of eagle spotting, a fresh front of rain began to sweep through the valley. We retreated from the river, tracking back through the holiday park, passing a generously sized play area before entering the cosy surroundings of the newly-opened Campbell’s Café.
Escaping the rain at Campbell’s Café
Campbell’s Café is the latest addition to the Ben Nevis Holiday Park. From the moment you walk in, it’s clear that a lot of effort has been made to make the space feel bright and welcoming.
We sank into two comfy armchairs and ordered a feast of hot drinks, soup, pizza and paninis. For less hungry travellers than ourselves, a range of homemade cakes and sweet treats were on offer, along with an assortment of snack items.
The café was a lovely place to enjoy a relaxed meal whilst waiting for the weather to clear. A vast topographic map of the area adorned one of the walls, and we spent a few minutes picking out places we’d been and mountains we wanted to climb. It wasn’t long before our food arrived – the piping-hot soup was particularly welcome on a day like this, and a generous serving of cappuccino gave the perfect boost for the rest of the day’s adventures.
Outside, a large patio area looked like it would be a fantastic place to enjoy a drink during those precious summer days when the weather allows. As with the rest of the park, the views across the Ben Nevis from here are magnificent – what better setting could there be?
Beyond Ben Nevis Holiday Park: From Locks to Lochs
Ben Nevis Holiday Park is a great base for anyone looking to explore Fort William and beyond. Although we didn’t have the time to take in some of the best-loved sites in the wider area – think the iconic valley of Glencoe or the sweeping views of the Glenfinnan viaduct – there was plenty to enjoy on our doorstep.
Stepping it up at Neptune’s Staircase
The first stop was Neptune’s Staircase, just a short walk from the park in the village of Banavie. A marvel of engineering, the staircase is a series of eight canal locks, built between 1803 and 1822 to help vessels make their way onto the Caledonian Canal, which connects the North Sea at Inverness with the Atlantic at Fort William, thus avoiding the need to circumnavigate the waters around the top of Scotland.
We were lucky enough to arrive just as a large ship – the Nova Spero, which means ‘New Hope’ – was about to start its journey down the staircase towards Loch Linnhe.
As the process of navigating Neptune’s Staircase begins, the water in the locks begins to churn with ever-increasing vigour. Half a dozen small whirlpools manifested themselves as we watched on, spinning through the murky brown water before disappearing in a flash. Eventually, the water reaches the required height and the boat passes through. This process is repeated for each lock, and it can take up to 90 minutes for a vessel to pass through the entire system and complete its journey.
A short walk from the base of Neptune’s Staircase is a shipwreck so tragically photogenic that you could be forgiven for thinking that it was placed there deliberately. The Corpach Wreck, as it is affectionately known, washed up in 2011 after a mighty storm. It has remained there ever since, becoming a favourite among photographers as it slowly deteriorates.
Cruising the waters of Loch Linnhe
An alternative view of the Corpach Wreck can be enjoyed from the waters of the loch itself. A handful of firms offer tours of Loch Linnhe from Fort William, with Cruise Loch Linnhe being one of the most popular.
The team at Cruise Loch Linnhe offer a range of trips for tourists, from sunset cruises to seal island cruises. We opted for the two-hour seal cruise, which promised to cover vast swathes of Loch Linnhe before taking us over to a patch of tidal rocks where the local population of seals can be reliably found.
From the moment we set off, we couldn’t help but be impressed at the wealth of knowledge shared by skipper Karl. From the dramatic geology of Ben Nevis to the tragic history of the Highland Clearances, Karl’s commentary helped bring Scotland’s rich history to life, warts and all.
Karl also did a great job of keeping everybody’s spirits up as we grappled with the delights of everything the Scottish weather could throw at us. Rain showers came and went, before a blissful twenty minutes of sunshine fooled everyone into thinking we could pack our waterproofs away. This, it turned out, was a bad mistake.
As we made our way towards Seal Island, past rusting old ferries and controversial salmon farms, the skies ahead of us turned an ominous dark grey. With barely any warning, a great sheet of torrential rain raced down the loch towards us, and chaos ensued as everyone either raced indoors or grappled desperately with their waterproofs.
Amidst the rain-induced madness, we had all failed to notice that the boat had pulled silently up alongside a small patch of rocks jutting out above the choppy waters. A small colony of seals – perhaps twenty in total – lay lazily on the wet stone. They barely noticed as the rain bounced off their gleaming blubber.
Loch Linnhe has a reliable population of seals – from Common Seals to the rarer Atlantic Grey Seals. Both types of seal can be found on Seal Island, enjoying a welcome break from chasing their dinner in the murky waters of the loch, and – if they’re lucky – soaking up some Scottish sun.
Although the sunshine was nowhere to be seen, the deluge did – mercifully – come to a stop as we bobbed alongside the island. The seals lay nonplussed on the shimmering rocks, lifting their heads occasionally to glance at the boat before returning to their rest.
As the boat’s engines fired up once more, a sliver of sunlight finally broke through the clouds. Before long, the outdoor deck was packed once again with passengers enjoying the weather.
At the back of the ship, the young couple had been reunited, waterproofs successfully donned and a smile on their faces as they enjoyed the scene. Towards the front, a bright rainbow swept across the landscape, eliciting oohs and aahs from all on board. Moments like these are worth braving a storm for.
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This looks like the perfect weekend trip. Thanks so much for sharing all about it!
Thanks, Charity! It was a fantastic weekend!
This looks like such a beautiful place to visit. I have never been to Scotland before, but would love to. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Lauren.
Thanks Lauren, really appreciate that. I’d definitely recommend making the journey up to Scotland sometime – it will be worth the long trip from Bournemouth!
Looks like a fantastic time! I loved reading about your experience. The pods look super cozy!
Thank you! We had a wonderful weekend, and the pods were the perfect place to relax.