Sweat dripped down my brow as I stole a glance at the view. The ground was parched – dried mud bleached an anaemic brown by the summer sun.
In the distance, the northern shores of Ullswater stretched and snaked towards the horizon and eventually out of sight. The water gleamed blue, glistening gently as waves rippled along the surface.
Tiny dots meandered across the lake in all directions. Kayakers, paddleboarders and even the occasional hardy swimmer flitted about, enjoying the afternoon heat.
We were a few hundred metres above the action, hiking along on the slopes of Birks – one of the 214 famous Wainwright Fells in the Lake District National Park. It was a hot Friday in June, and we were completing a circular trail from the village of Patterdale. Our route took in Birks and the nearby rocky summit of Arnison Crag.
From start to finish, the views were spectacular. A hike up these two Wainwrights is possibly the best way to appreciate the full scale of Ullswater and its sublime surroundings.
From a summary of the route to the best things to see along the way, here is everything you need to know about the hike up Arnison Crag and Birks.
Arnison Crag and Birks: The Route
In Numbers
Start: This route up Arnison Crag and Birks begins in Patterdale.
Distance: The hike up Arnison Crag and Birks is roughly 5 miles (8 kilometres).
Ascent: There is just over 500 metres of ascent.
Time: We recommend allowing 3 hours for the full circular route. This will give you plenty of time to enjoy a stop at Arnison Crag, and to take advantage of the myriad photo opportunities along the way. However, it is possible to do the hike much faster.
Arnison Crag height: 433 metres (1,421)
Birks height: 622 metres (2,041 feet)
The circular route from Patterdale
The easiest way up Birks is to hike from Patterdale, a small hamlet at the southwestern tip of Ullswater.
From Patterdale, you can take a circular route in either direction. When we did it, we chose to go up Arnison Crag first. We then traversed over to Birks and descended towards Patterdale.
Stage 1 – Patterdale to Arnison Crag
The hike begins near the Patterdale Hotel. A small road leads behind the hotel before eventually taking you through a small, lush copse of bracken and birch trees.
Within a few minutes, you pass through a wooden gate and begin the steep, direct climb up to the summit of Arnison Crag.
The route is primarily a meandering track with some short sections of zigzags on the steeper sections. The zigzags lead straight up, and before long, Ullswater begins to reveal itself over the top of the tree line. To your right, a classic dry stone wall leads the way.
As you approach the end of the zigzags, heart racing and out of breath, there is a wall of rock on your left – this is Oxford Crag. For those with experience, this wall offers some opportunity for scrambling.
Leaving Oxford Crag behind, the path continues at a steep incline. Bracken grabs at you from both sides of the path – if it has rained recently, be sure to wear quick-drying trousers. You will get wet!
Eventually, you will reach Arnison Crag’s small rocky summit, which offers magnificent views back to Patterdale and to the fells around Hortsop and Fairfield. This is the perfect spot to grab some lunch and catch your breath.
Stage 2 – Arnison Crag to Birks via Trough Head
After soaking in the vista, your route descends for a short while into a bracken-covered valley known as Trough Head. You then ascend once more, on another abrupt, zigzagging path, to meet the main trail up to Birks.
At this point, the full magnificence of the view begins to reveal itself. With the hardship of the steep climb out of the way, a gentle incline leads you to your final destination – the subtle summit of Birks.
Birks is marked, inconspicuously, by a small pile of rocks. In fact, it barely resembles a summit at all – instead, a grassy mound that blends into the landscape. On the way to St Sunday Crag, you could easily pass it by without a second thought.
Nonetheless, Alfred Wainwright considered it worthy of inclusion in its own right. Together with Arnison Crag, it certainly makes for a lovely day out in the hills.
Admire the views from the summit before continuing your hike.
Extend your walk from Birks
If you have more energy in the tank, you may want to consider extending your hike to bag the summit of St Sunday Crag. This requires another 219 metres of ascent along the same path – if you are reasonably fit, it is worth the extra effort.
From the summit of St Sunday Crag, you can enjoy superb views of the infamous Striding Edge ridge that leads to the summit of Helvellyn. You can then return via the same path before descending to Patterdale.
Read next: Discovering the beautiful walk up to Angle Tarn from Patterdale.
Stage 3 – The descent from Birks
On this circular route, the descent takes you back to Patterdale via the most direct route. The views at every stage are unbeatable.
Ullswater lies directly in front of you, with no trees or rocks to block the scenery. The views are at their best around Thornhow End, which marks the steepest section of the descent. Take care as you pick your way down the rocky path.
The final leg takes you through whimsical woodland, where gnarly trees grow alongside gentle streams, and sunlight dances through the leaves. In a somewhat unusual sight for the Lake District, there is even a small herd of cows grazing among the trees.
Read next: Exploring the Norber Erratics in the Yorkshire Dales.
How to get to Patterdale for the start of the walk up Arnison Crag and Birks
There are two ways to get to Patterdale – by car or bus.
Getting to Patterdale by car
There is very little parking in Patterdale itself. If you are hoping to do the hike up Arnison Crag and Birks on a sunny weekend, make sure to arrive early.
The best place to park in Patterdale is at the Patterdale Hotel.
Alternatively, you can park in the much larger public car park at Glenridding. Whilst this car park can also get extremely busy, you may stand a better chance of getting a spot if you arrive a little later.
From Glenridding car park to Patterdale, you will have to walk an extra mile along the A592 road.
Getting to Patterdale by bus
If you are happy to leave the car at home, the 508 bus is a great way to get to Patterdale.
Catch the train to Penrith and head to the bus stop just outside the train station entrance. If you’re lucky, you will catch one of the open-top buses that travel the length of Ullswater. The bus will drop you off in Patterdale near the start of the walk.
For more information on the 508’s timetable, click here.
Read next: If car-free walks in the Lake District are your thing, check out our suggestions for the best walks from the 555 bus.
Things to look for on your hike up Birks and Arnison Crag
1) Classic Lake District houses
Keep an eye out for whitewashed farmhouses tucked away on the side of the hill. These historic homes are a staple of the Lake District and always look like an idyllic place to live.
2) Birds of prey around Ullswater
Whilst the last golden eagle sadly disappeared from the Lake District in 2016, you still stand a good chance of spotting other impressive birds. Kestrels and buzzards are particularly common – seeing them soar above the slopes is always a treat.
Read next: Exploring the Ingleborough Estate Nature Trail in the Yorkshire Dales.
3) Local farming activity
Farms have shaped the landscape in the Lake District for centuries. From the ubiquitous drystone walls to the occasional sheep pen, Birks Fell is a great vantage point from which to spot evidence of Lakeland’s most historically significant industry.
4) The Ullswater Steamer
Standing out among the tiny kayaks and paddleboards, the Ullswater Steamers are impressive heritage boats that have been ferrying passengers along Ullswater since 1859.
As you admire the views of Cumbria’s second-largest lake from your hike up Birks and Arnison Crag, see if you can spot the iconic green and white steamer making its way along the water.