Kaliningrad is a city like no other, with some intriguing things to see and do. It’s the largest in the region of the same name, a Russian exclave on the Baltic coastline, sandwiched between Lithuania and Poland. Although Kaliningrad is cut off from Mother Russia geographically, it is surrounded by EU states and remains culturally Russian.
However, this was not always the case. In fact, the history of Kaliningrad itself is remarkably short – it only came into existence in 1945…
A short history of Kaliningrad
Kaliningrad lies on top of the historic city of Königsberg. The Teutonic Knights founded the original settlement in 1255 during their northern crusades. The city expanded to become the capital of Prussia and, in turn, East Prussia. It became renowned for academic excellence and military prowess and was integral to the formation of the German Empire.
When World War II struck, Königsberg escaped unscathed for much of the conflict. However, British forces bombed it in 1944, destroying 40% of the buildings in the city centre. These included the cathedral, castle, churches, and the famous Albertina University.
Soviet forces continued the destruction during the Battle of Königsberg. Ultimately, intense bombardment flattened 80% of the city. The Soviets eventually captured Königsberg and amalgamated it into the Russian Soviet Republic.
Unlike many cities which had sustained heavy damage in World War II, the Soviets did not painstakingly restore the historic town of Königsberg. Instead, Soviet Russia opted to complete the war’s destruction. They flattened what was left of the city centre (with one notable exception!) to make way for a grand Soviet town.
The Soviets expelled the German population during this process and repopulated the area with their own citizens. Then, to complete the transformation, they renamed the city Kaliningrad in 1946. The name was in typical Soviet-style – ‘grad’ meaning city and ‘Kalinin’ to honour Mikhail Kalinin, the (powerless) Soviet head of state. Just like that, Königsberg disappeared from the map, and Kaliningrad appeared in its place.
This turbulent history makes it an intriguing city to visit. Here are our recommendations for seven fantastic things you should see and do whilst in Kaliningrad.
1. Admire The House of Soviets
The House of Soviets is the bizarre centrepiece of Kaliningrad. When you look at this brutalist monster, it is impossible to imagine that it stands on the filled-in moat of a stunning 13th Century castle.
Despite taking heavy damage during World War II, Königsberg Castle was structurally intact when the area became Kaliningrad. However, in a move met with outcry, Brezhnev ordered the castle’s demolition in 1968. This was part of a determined effort to eradicate all reminders of imperial Prussia.
The House of Soviets is a 21-storey concrete monstrosity of a building. It was designed to be the administrative centre of Kaliningrad, housing the Party headquarters. However, economic tensions meant the construction permanently stalled. The building started to slowly collapse, as the foundations couldn’t support the vast weight of the structure. To the shock of absolutely nobody, it turns out that the combination of marshy soil and Königsberg Castle’s old tunnel network meant that this wasn’t the best site to build a giant concrete block.
In 2005, to celebrate Kaliningrad’s 60th anniversary, the House of Soviets was painted in a delightful shade of pastel blue.
Whilst the House of Soviets is officially closed to visitors, it may be possible to negotiate your way inside. If you choose to venture within, keep in mind that this is a derelict building. Enter at your own risk!
Read next: Tips and things you should know before you visit Transnistria
2. Visit Königsberg Cathedral
A few paragraphs ago, I mentioned a notable exception to the Soviet policy of flattening any remnants of Prussia. Well, it’s time to solve the mystery – the building spared was Königsberg Cathedral. The reason? Immanuel Kant.
A highly influential philosopher, Kant was born in Königsberg and lived there for most of his life, teaching at the Albertina University. Upon his death, Kant was buried at Königsberg Cathedral. This act would later save the cathedral from demolition.
The Soviets had a general policy of destroying cathedrals and churches – either literally or through turning them into museums or cultural centres. Indeed, they had even less mercy for Prussian churches. However, due to Lenin’s affinity for Kant’s philosophical thinkings, they left Königsberg Cathedral untouched.
That’s not to say that they did anything to help this 14th Century cathedral. However, they did leave it alone until the collapse of the Soviet Union. Eventually, after many decades of decay, the authorities began a restoration process.
Make sure you visit the restored Königsberg Cathedral, as well as Kant’s mausoleum – it is undoubtedly one of the best things to do in Kaliningrad. You can find it on the northeast side of the cathedral.
3. Discover the Museum of the World Ocean
As Russia’s only European port to remain ice-free all year round, Kaliningrad is strategically important to Mr Putin. It’s also home to the Baltic Fleet, a vital part of the Russian Navy. So this makes it the perfect place for a maritime museum!
A variety of vessels are moored along the Pregolya River for visitors to climb aboard. The highlight for us was the chance to explore a Soviet submarine – well worth the entrance fee.
You can find the latest visitor information on the museum website.
4. Take a stroll around Kaliningrad’s Victory Square
Victory Square is an example of a more recent investment in Kaliningrad. The Victory Column in the centre commemorates four important Russian military victories. The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour provides a glistening backdrop in typical Russian Orthodox style, with white stonework and classic golden onion domes.
5. Wander the streets of the Fishing Village in Kaliningrad
The Fishing Village is a recreation of a small section of Kaliningrad’s pre-war fishing quarter. The architecture is distinctly Germanic, offering visitors a glimpse into how the city once looked. Amongst the buildings is a lighthouse, which houses a mini-museum.
It is well worth climbing the lighthouse for an interesting view over Kant Island (Kneiphof) towards the cathedral, with the House of Soviets looming in the background.
6. Watch a match at Kaliningrad Stadium
A little outside of the city centre, Kaliningrad Stadium was built for the 2018 World Cup, where it hosted four matches. Allegations of corruption plagued the construction, and there are various disputes ongoing – the stadium appears to be sinking…
Nevertheless, its selection as a host city certainly raised Kaliningrad’s profile internationally. It’s worth a quick detour if you have the time.
7. Take a tour of Kaliningrad’s Amber Museum
Amber is a big deal in Kaliningrad – 90% of the world’s amber comes from this region. The museum exhibition is split into ‘science’ – amber with plant or animal inclusions – and ‘culture’ – artefacts made using amber. As a bonus, the museum can be found in Dohna Tower. The tower was part of the 19th Century city fortifications, and therefore offers a glimpse into the pre-war city.
You can find the latest visitor information on the museum website.
So that’s it – our tips for things to see and do in Kaliningrad! Of course, there’s more to explore – especially in the wider Kaliningrad Oblast region. However, this list provides a good summary of the key sights for your visit. If you’ve been or would like to go, be sure to let us know in the comments!
Great post! Thank you for sharing this! I love the photos!
Thanks for reading! Pleased you enjoyed the photos.
So informative! I thought I knew a bit about modern Russian history but I literally knew none of this 😂 it’s good to keep learning though!
Thanks for reading! We also knew none of this before visiting Kaliningrad, but travel is the best way to learn 🙂
Its crazy that they decided to level the city themselves and rebuild it?! So much history just gone! Thanks for this post though, so well written.
I completely agree – it seems crazy to intentionally destroy so much history. Thanks for reading!
I’ve never realised there was so much Prussian history there – what an interesting place to visit this must have been! Except for that House of Soviets though, that thing is a complete eyesore!
It was a fascinating place to visit, but yes, the House of Soviets is something else! Thanks for reading!