“It’s a party in the forest. With people from all over the world,” explained our new train companion, his long, greying beard rustling with excitement as he spoke. Over the next thirty minutes, he described a fantastical weekend of music and frivolity somewhere deep in the woodlands of Scandinavia. We nodded along, captivated by his enthusiasm. By happy coincidence, music had also inspired our adventure on this sunny summer weekend.
We were travelling from Copenhagen to Stockholm, a journey of a little over 522 kilometres as the crow flies. Outside the window, the Swedish countryside rushed past in a flash of vivid green and blue.
Forests and fields dominated the landscape, interspersed with the occasional glimpse of a sparkling lake under a cloudless sky. The scenery was calm, peaceful and largely empty of people – a contrast, no doubt, to the weekends that awaited both us and the festival-goer sitting opposite.
As we approached Stockholm station, the festival-bound gentleman jolted into life. Scratching his tanned forehead and stretching his arms, he reached down a small, frayed rucksack and wished us a good trip. He disappeared down the aisle, just as the train shuddered to a halt. We had arrived.
Arriving in Stockholm
Stockholm station was a flurry of activity. Large groups – friends and families alike – stood in great clusters on the platform.
We ducked and dived between the dozens of suitcases, rucksacks and bicycles that littered the station’s walkways. The smell of sweet pastries and strong coffee wafted through the air. Before long, we had escaped the central lobby and stepped out into the bright Swedish sun.
Wasting no time, we started following the crowds heading towards the spires of central Stockholm. With just under 24 hours before we were due to depart again, there was no time to waste.
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Exploring Gamla Stan
We spent much of Saturday wandering the cobbled streets of Gamla stan, Stockholm’s exquisite old town. With a history stretching back to the 13th century, this is the capital’s oldest district, home to ancient cathedrals and grand royal palaces.
Today, this tiny island is the beating heart of Stockholm’s tourist industry. The crowded streets and packed pubs were a jarring contrast to the sparsely populated countryside that we had sped through on our journey from Copenhagen.
Embracing the buzz, we stopped for a while to watch a small group of drummers parade through Järntorget – ‘The Iron Square’ in English. A stone’s throw away, we noticed a small queue forming at the entrance to Mårten Trotzigs gränd, Stockholm’s narrowest street, which has become an Instagram hotspot.
Little signs of local life appeared along every cobbled street and chiselled sets of steps. Rusty bikes stood propped against wooden windowsills. A small group of worshippers walked through the twisted metal gate of the Saint Gertrude, an impressive German church. Cafes were full to bursting with friends and couples enjoying an al-fresco drink in the warm July air.
The dangers of a seaside sandwich
Before making our way to Gamla stan, we had picked up an on-the-go lunch from a small 7-Eleven near the station. These tiny convenience stores can be found all over Stockholm and offer an ideal place to grab cheap snacks or speedy meals.
To our delight, we found that the sandwiches at Sweden’s 7-Elevens are made with real bread – none of this ultra-processed, thinly-sliced nonsense that we have to endure in the UK. Craving food after our long train journey, we wasted no time picking out a couple of generously filled items from behind the counter.
Lucy had, sensibly, decided to save her gourmet sandwich until we arrived at the hotel. I, on the other hand, couldn’t resist. We found a set of steps next to the water where a few groups were sitting, enjoying the warmth of the afternoon and the views across the harbour.
No sooner had I ripped into the bag and was preparing to take my first bite, than a flash of white feathers rushed past my shoulder. The gull slammed into my sandwich, causing an almighty explosion of salad and bread. Lettuce and processed cheese scattered unceremoniously across the ground. It was a traumatic fate for my poor lunch.
The drama hadn’t gone unnoticed, and there was a momentary lull in conversation from those sat nearby. The gull landed in front of us, wearing a smug look on its greedy face. Things could only get better.
Stockholm souvenirs: choosing a Dala Horse
“These are all made by hand in Dalarna,” explained the shop’s owner with a smile.
One of our most charming interactions in Stockholm came at Art & Craft, a small souvenir and handicraft shop on Kåkbrinken. Among the dozens of postcards, Christmas decorations and Swedish flags stood a striking collection of multicoloured wooden horses.
The horses hail from the town of Dalarna, over 350 kilometres northwest of Stockholm, where local craftspeople have produced these popular figures since the 17th century. Each horse is hand-carved and hand-painted. Available in a variety of colours and sizes, they make for enchanting souvenirs.
If you want to make sure you are getting an authentic Dala Horse, be sure to ask for more details at the store. The staff at Art & Craft were happy to tell us about the process for making the horses, and the price was reassuringly realistic – we paid 239 Krona (around £18) for a small yellow figure.
Swapping rain for burgers in Gamla stan
With our new equestrian companion safely tucked away in Lucy’s shoulder bag, we set off into the busy throng of Gamla stan once more. As we glanced up, we noticed ominous dark clouds gathering overhead.
We barely got two minutes down the street before we felt the first drops of rain. Just a few at first, tapping on heads and hands as if gently warning us to make a move.
It didn’t take long before the scattered taps gave way to a deluge. The street transformed instantly into a scene straight out of a comedy sketch. Dozens of umbrellas appeared instantly, their owners unfolding them urgently as the heavens opened. People rushed to rescue raincoats from the depths of rucksacks and shoulder bags.
We had neither umbrellas nor raincoats. Instead, we made a snap decision to dive into Barrels, a rustic grillhouse, where we snatched their last dry table. Taking it as an opportunity to make up for the earlier gull-ruined lunch, we settled in for burgers and chips. Quick service and reasonable prices – a quick call well-made.
Exploring the courtyards and streets around the Royal Palace
When the rains subsided, we headed to the Royal Palace, which overlooks the Norrström waterway on the northeastern corner of Gamla stan. The palace is still the official residence of the Swedish King and hosts numerous receptions and events throughout the year.
Outside the palace, a lonely guardsman stood next to ancient cannons. The sun reappeared as he marched slowly up and down, keeping a steady pace and a distant stare.
Outside the courtyard, at the top of a long cobbled street, the statue of King Charles XIV John looks out across the water. Charles, who was King of Sweden and Norway in the nineteenth century, sits atop a horse, dressed in full military regalia. He points a green, weather-worn arm towards the sky, his movement frozen in time.
With three museums to explore and the changing of the guard to admire, it’s little wonder the palace was a hive of activity each time we walked past.
Saturday Night’s Alright
We built our trip around the final show of Elton John’s 330-date farewell tour. We had been watching his mesmerising Glastonbury performance live on BBC One two weeks before we set off.
Halfway through his set, we each lamented the fact that we had missed our chance to catch him in action. Knowing there were just a handful of dates left on his tour, we set about plotting a last-minute trip.
By the time Elton had finished his Glastonbury show, we had bagged some of the last remaining cheap seats to the Saturday show in Stockholm.
14 days later, we found ourselves walking to the Tele2 arena among a sea of Elton fans. Flashing sunglasses, flamboyant jackets – you name it, everything was on full display among the 40,000-strong crowd.
The stadium, which normally hosts Djurgårdens’ and Hammarby’s football matches, was a superb music venue. Food and drink prices were surprisingly reasonable (4 euros for a beer!), and we enjoyed an excellent view from our budget side seats.
As you would expect, Elton put on a spellbinding show with a setlist packed full of classics. We left feeling very lucky to have been there for the final date of the five-year tour.
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Morning reflections in Stockholm
The following day brought perfect, still conditions. The sun was already beating down as we threw open our curtains and began to stir.
We headed out to the jetty of the Rygerfjord Hotel, our home for the night. On the shores of Södermalm, opposite Gamla stan, this no-frills boat hotel offered superb views across to Stockholm’s famous old town.
From the tower of the Riddarholmen Church to the grand facade of the Old Parliament House, the historic buildings looked resplendent in the early morning light. A slight breeze disturbed the water, causing a band of ripples to break up the reflections. It was a magnificent morning.
Ferries and islands with a view
Our final stop on our whistlestop stay in Stockholm was the island of Skeppsholmen. Guarded by hundreds of geese which roam the island’s patchwork of lawns, we had read that the tiny place is home to some of the city’s best views.
To reach Skeppsholmen, we passed alongside the Strömkajen ferry terminal. Even at this early hour, dozens of people stood in the morning sun waiting to board the large, whitewashed boats.
Couples and families made up the bulk of the passengers. Mirroring the scene at the train station less than 24 hours ago, suitcases were sprawled haphazardly across the pavement.
We weaved among the expectant crowds, pausing to watch as ship staff beckoned the passengers on board. This created a melee of luggage, bicycles and pushchairs as each group gathered their belongings and went on board.
Eventually, as the first ferry blared its horn and slipped away into the distance, we crossed the ornate Skeppsholmsbron and arrived on Skeppsholmen. The views were as good as promised, with the multicoloured townhouses of Gamla stan lined up perfectly in the distance.
We admired the vista for as long as we could. A quick glance at our watches beckoned us away – it was time to wave goodbye to Stockholm. Our next adventure? The Flixtrain to Gothenburg.