“It has changed a lot. More big buildings, more big hotels. I liked it how it was before,” reflected our host as she weaved her small car between gnarly potholes along the steep, narrow roads of Ohrid’s old town.
Ottoman-style houses clung to the hillside to our right, their terracotta rooftops and impressive wooden windows facing out towards the shimmering expanse of the lake.
Straddling the border of North Macedonia to the north and Albania to the south, Lake Ohrid is one of Europe’s largest lakes. On the North Macedonian side – a designated World Heritage Site – the town of Ohrid is the beating heart of the region’s tourism industry. Hundreds of thousands of people flock here each year from neighbouring Balkan countries and beyond.
We had been staying in a small, charming apartment hosted by the wonderful Sonja. The balcony boasted unbeatable views of the Church of Saint John at Kaneo, an ancient Macedonian Orthodox chapel occupying an enviable clifftop position overlooking the lake. From a small wooden stall outside, Sonja sold hand-carved souvenirs to the steady stream of tourists who make the pilgrimage to the church each day.
It was our second visit to Ohrid. We were returning after an eight-year hiatus, with fond memories of our first trip to the town. Our original visit, back in June 2015, was a highlight of our post-exam adventure around the Balkans. In fact, the bakeries of Ohrid sparked our lifetime love of the regional specialities – particularly burek, those devilishly greasy parcels of filo pastry fly off the shelves each morning.
The town felt busier than our first trip. In 2015, Ohrid felt like somewhere gearing up for a tourism boom. In 2023, it appeared it had succeeded. Waterfront cafes and restaurants jostled for space on the narrow pavement next to the lake. Each table was occupied, with couples and friends enjoying glasses of crisp white wine and seafood dishes.
We were delighted to be back and couldn’t wait to see how Ohrid had changed.
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Street scenes in Ohrid
After our minibus from Skopje dropped us off on the outskirts of Ohrid’s busy town centre, we made a beeline for the lake. After strolling down the main street, which was packed with souvenir shops, ice cream stands and the occasional cafe, we arrived at the waterfront.
It was just how we remembered it. The pavements were alive with throngs of tourists enjoying the warm October sun. Boatmen vied to catch the attention of passersby, offering short excursions onto the lake or to nearby villages.
We wandered along the shore. Ducks and geese swam past us, frolicking around in the shallows. The afternoon air was filled with the sound of conversation, clinking cutlery and the incessant chugging of the motorised boats that ferry small groups around the lake.
A stone jetty stuck out from the pavement, stretching a few dozen metres into the lake. Gratuitously, I asked Lucy to do her best influencer impression and wander along whilst I tried to take a few photos. After two minutes, her despairing glare told me it was time to catch up.
At the end of the jetty, a handful of locals sat enjoying the final embers of what had been a sweltering day. A man sat beside a rusty bicycle, dangling his feet into the water. A few other groups took the same approach, choosing to dip their toes rather than head for a swim.
Back on the shore, children cycled past on their way home from school, swerving among pedestrians. Elderly couples sat on wooden benches, enjoying the views and making occasional conversation. Life was happening all around us, and it was with great reluctance that we eventually began to plod up the hill in the direction of our apartment. It was time to check in and ditch the rucksacks.
A beautiful balcony sunset
The big draw of our apartment was the balcony. I would go as far as to state that it boasts the best view in all of Ohrid. It’s the second-to-last house on the street leading to the famous clifftop church, and the balcony enjoys unobstructed views over to the famous landmark.
After we arrived, we had just over an hour before sunset. Deciding to settle in and enjoy the spectacle, we made cups of tea and sat on the balcony.
The occasional boat engine echoed from the water below. The church was still busy with small groups and photographers trying to get the perfect sunset shot.
Far out in the middle of the lake, a small white sailing boat caught our eye. The sun reflected off its window. Behind it, the mountains on the far shore shone a vibrant red.
Eventually, a handful of spotlights switched on, illuminating the walls of the church in gentle light. By now, the building was silhouetted against the golden light. We could see a few people taking selfies, clambering along the rocks to make the most of the final few minutes of dusk before darkness descended.
By the time the final smatterings of red and gold had faded from the sky, our stomachs were beginning to rumble. We made our way down to Kaneo, the tiny ex-fishing community which gives its name to St. John’s.
An unexpected dinner
We were aiming for Fisherman’s House, a small waterfront restaurant that serves traditional fayre in a casual setting. To our disappointment, however, it appeared to be closed for the season. Although we could hear a couple of voices somewhere in the garden, the house itself was shrouded in darkness. We decided to cut our losses and headed into town, resisting the temptation to slink into a nearby seafood restaurant with prices beyond our budget.
On our way back to the road, we passed a rooftop where half a dozen young kittens were leaping and bounding along the tiles. This somewhat made up for the disappointment of the closed restaurant, but with stomachs continuing to rumble, we had to tear ourselves away and continue into town.
The first couple of restaurants we found were, apparently, fully booked. This seemed a little odd for this time of year, but it had been that kind of evening. Eventually, we cut our losses and ducked into a pizza restaurant.
After an apathetic welcome, we were relieved when the pizzas arrived and tasted great. The rest of the meal flew by without a hitch – barring nearly choking to death on an inexplicably hot chilli sitting on top of my last slice, tempting me to try it. A bad mistake, which resulted in me downing both our drinks in a desperate attempt to stave off the spice. Reader, I survived- just about. Dignity? Not intact.
Day Two: Sunrise wanders, crumbling castles and paper museums
Sunrise the following day was one of the highlights of our time in Ohrid. Setting our alarms early, we resolved to wrap up warm and head down to the famous church. Despite the unsociable hour, we knew that setting off at dawn would be worth it – not only would we enjoy the golden hour views, but we would also beat the crowds that descend on this postcard-perfect spot later in the day.
We were completely alone as we strolled down the gentle path leading to the church. Boats bobbed gently in the water beneath us, tethered to the rocky shores of Kaneo. A few flocks of birds skimmed across the water, flapping energetically as they raced around the cliffs and out of sight.
We could see the first light of the day beginning to creep up behind the mountains. The sun had not yet made its way over the tall summits, but the sky had turned a pastel pink. It didn’t take long for the sun to race over the hilltops, bathing the church in bright light and heralding the start of a new day. A magical experience.
For a full rundown of our sunrise wander in Ohrid, click here.
A sunny morning exploring Ohrid
With the day underway, it wasn’t long before the first boats made their way out onto Lake Ohrid. At first, it was the kayakers – a handful of early risers splashing their way along the shoreline. However, it didn’t take long before the first motorboats spluttered into life.
The racket generated by the boats is particularly noticeable first thing in the morning when there is little other noise – save perhaps for birdsong or the distant barking of dogs. The sound of the engines, therefore, tends to echo around the town, bouncing off the cliffs and carrying up through the narrow alleys.
By midmorning, the din of the boats tends to blend into the general hum of city life. But if you listen closely, you can hear it cutting through the day – a deep, rumbling rattle.
After picking up some breakfast burek from town, we decided to head away from the noisy boats and plod up to Ohrid’s hilltop fortress. Known as Samuel’s Fortress, this impressive monument dates back to the time of King Philip II of Macedon in the 4th century BC.
Wandering the walls of Ohrid Fortress
The current building, however, is believed to date back to the reign of Tsar Samuel of Bulgaria in the 10th and 11th centuries AD. Unlike Skopje Fortress, the walls have been almost completely restored, making it much easier to get a sense of the scale and importance of the site. You do, however, have to pay a small entry fee at the gate.
Once inside, we clambered up a steep flight of stone steps and onto the ramparts. The views were brilliant – just as good as we remembered from our first visit in 2015. The full expanse of Lake Ohrid stretched out beneath us, flanked by forested hills and the occasional lakefront village.
Inside the fortress itself, there was little to see. A small team of workers were sweating away in a series of deep trenches. A man in a bright red t-shirt had drawn the short straw, tasked with ferrying wheelbarrows of excavated mud away from the trenches and dumping it in a quiet corner of the fortress.
We’re not sure exactly what the purpose of the trenches was – whether they were for archaeological investigations or part of further restoration works on the fortress. Either way, they didn’t want unannounced visitors disturbing their work, as a few angry shouts to an oblivious tourist carrying a large camera and sporting aviator sunglasses demonstrated.
After admiring the views and watching the commotion, we waved goodbye to the fortress and continued our wander around Ohrid’s old town.
Amphitheatres and ancient churches
We were delighted to see that the old Greek amphitheatre was every bit as charming as we remembered it. Hidden almost out of sight among the steep streets and multi-storey townhouses that straddle the hillside, the amphitheatre comprises a sweeping semi-circle, perhaps 15 metres high.
It faces a small stage over which hangs a small perspex roof. There was no sign of any performances during our visit, but we understand the theatre hosts the occasional play or musical evening. Sitting down to enjoy our final portion of breakfast burek, we quietly cheered on an intrepid loose hen that was making a tentative break for freedom, waddling in the direction of the stage.
Just as the hen was about to enjoy its moment in the spotlight, stage fright struck, and she hurried off into the safety of the undergrowth. Naturally, this seemed like our cue to leave. With our bus to nearby Bitola just a few hours away, we still had one final stop to make.
Discovering Ohrid’s Paper Museum
After calling in at the hilltop Church of Holy Mary Peryvleptos, a striking Byzantine church set in a peaceful courtyard with impressive views across to the fortress, we made our way back into town. We were aiming for a small museum that would quickly prove to be one of the highlights of our short stay in Ohrid.
The Paper Museum – a workshop, in reality – is hidden away among the streets of the old town near the shore. If you are in a hurry, you could easily walk past it without realising it was there. But, for those lucky enough to spot it, the museum offers one of Ohrid’s most unique experiences – as we were shortly to discover.
Outside, dozens of sheets of pale yellow parchment hung from a washing line, loosely secured with plastic pegs. Inside, gently lit by low artificial light, paper of all shapes and sizes adorned the walls. There was artwork everywhere – depictions of Ohrid and scenes of local life. Lino prints, sketches, watercolours – the paper had been put to good use in many different styles.
When we entered, we were the only ones there. A gentleman greeted us, explaining how he was the only traditional paper maker still left in the Balkans.
An enormous wooden printing press stood next to him. A replica of the original Gutenberg press, he revealed – one of only two left in Europe.
He proceeded to give us a live demonstration of the paper-making process, dipping his paper into a wooden trough filled with thick mulch. His knowledge, gathered during a paper-making career spanning over 30 years, was remarkable. He knew every wood, every method of dying the paper, every technique.
It’s a remarkable place. The demonstration lasted for around ten minutes, with questions encouraged and answered with aplomb. If you get the chance, make sure to add it to your Ohrid itinerary.
We thanked the gentleman for his time, buying a few souvenir sheets of paper and a small print to take home.
A lift to the bus station and a final farewell to Ohrid
Sonja, our host, very kindly offered to give us a lift to the bus station to catch our onward service to Bitola.
This is the only downside of Ohrid – the bus station is far, far away on the edge of the town. In a Balkan heatwave with backpacks, this is an arduous walk along dusty roads packed with traffic.
Thank goodness, then, for Sonja. Not only did our brilliant host allow us to use the apartment long after our official checkout time (nobody was staying there after us), but she also offered to drive us to the bus station. This saved us from what would have been a very sweaty hour-long walk.
We crammed ourselves and our rucksacks into the car and set off. It was fascinating to hear how tourism has shaped Ohrid in recent decades. New hotels, unprecedented visitor numbers – the town is undoubtedly experiencing a boom. From a residents’ perspective, sustainability and over-tourism are big topics.
I suspect we’ll be back. When we do return, it’ll be fascinating to see how Ohrid has continued to evolve.
How we did it
Accommodation: We stayed at the brilliant Apartment Kaneo. Equipped with a basic kitchen and a sublime balcony, it is perfect for a short stay in Ohrid. Oh, and did we mention that the host, Sonja, is great?! From £44 a night, self-catering.
Getting there: We took the bus from Skopje to Ohrid. Buses run regularly from the North Macedonian capital. We recommend asking at Skopje bus station to check the latest times, as we found the online timetables to be unreliable.