A day trip to the magnificent Khor Virap monastery from Yerevan

“This is probably the most picturesque coffee break I’ve ever taken,” I declared to our driver, who returned a polite smile. He reached for his battered flask and poured out another generous helping of thick coffee into our plastic cups. As I took another sip, almost scalding my mouth, I stole another glance at the view.

Rising up in the distance was the ancient Khor Virap complex, one of Armenia’s most historic – and spectacular – monasteries. Dwarfing the entire scene were the snow-capped peaks of Mount Ararat, standing at a dizzying 5,137 metres above sea level. It was easy to understand why this iconic vista finds itself plastered on billboards and postcards throughout Armenia’s capital, Yerevan.

Khor Virap’s Magnificent History

There are records of a monastery at Khor Virap dating back to 642 CE. The site’s history, however, stretches back even further, forming a crucial chunk of Armenia’s national story.

Centuries before it became a place of worship, the site held unfortunate prisoners within its deep pits. One captive, Grigor Lusavorich, played an extraordinary role in the history of both Khor Virap and Armenia during the 3rd century CE.

Grigor was a staunch Christian, refusing to stray from his beliefs at a time when Armenia primarily followed paganism. This put him on a collision course with Armenia’s then-King, Tiridates III.

The conflict came to a head when Grigor’s father murdered the father of the King. Grigor was swiftly captured, and thrown into a prison pit at Khor Virap.

He rotted here for 13 years, kept alive by secret food deliveries by local Christians. During this time, the King was descending slowly into madness and hysteria.

Khor Virap’s history: Curing and converting the King

Desperate for a cure, the King’s sister began having recurring dreams about Grigor. In these dreams, Grigor was the only person able to cure Tiridates. Eventually, she set out to find Grigor and bring him to the King.

Grigor reunited with Tiridates and managed to bring him back to health. He then began to preach his Christian faith to the Armenian monarchy, eventually succeeding in converting them from paganism. Tiridates finally declared Christianity to be the official religion of the country in 301 CE.

Grigor is now known as Saint Gregory the Illuminator, and is considered to be the father of Christianity in Armenia. Unsurprisingly, the Khor Virap site is highly venerated. In the 7th century, a small chapel was built over the pit where Gregory had been.

Roughly a millennium later, a larger church was added to the Khor Virap compound. It now stands relatively untouched for the last few centuries, and still draws both tourists and pilgrims in their droves.

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How to get from Yerevan to Khor Virap

We’d booked ourselves a driver for the short journey from Yerevan to Khor Virap. At less than 50km away, there was a myriad of transport options from which to choose – everything from hitchhiking to organised group tours. Our preference, as ever, was to remain flexible and have the chance to explore at our own pace. At less than 30 dollars, commandeering a taxi for the morning was a no-brainer.

As we set off from Yerevan, we knew we’d struck lucky with the weather. Early morning mist quickly gave way to a cloudless sky, giving us an excellent chance of catching the iconic view of Mount Ararat in the distance.

It didn’t take long before the city sprawl turned to countryside, and the snowy peak quickly revealed itself as we bounced along the dusty road. We’d set off deliberately early, hoping to beat the deluge of organised coach tours which descend on Khor Virap each day. It didn’t take long, however, before we found ourselves in a steady convoy of vehicles making the pilgrimage towards the ancient site.

The first glimpse of Khor Virap

We eventually rounded a corner, and Khor Virap came into view. It was every bit as spectacular as the postcards suggest; the definition of picture-perfect. Ararat was still cloud-free, save for a few gentle wisps wrapping themselves around the summit.

We didn’t need to second-guess where the best spots were to grab a photo. There were only a handful of places to stop on the final straight to the car park. One lay-by in particular was being used as a staging post for a coachload of tourists wielding tripods and selfie sticks.

Embracing the chaos, we squeezed in just behind the group’s vehicle, before joining the quest for the iconic shot of Khor Virap and Ararat. Well worth the wait, we both agreed.

A couple of minutes later, we pulled into the car park. Bidding our driver a temporary farewell, we began the dusty walk up the slopes to the monastery itself. It was only just after 9am, but the sun was already beginning to beat down. Thankfully, Khor Virap is home to a perfect place to escape the heat of the day…

Finding silence in Khor Virap’s infamous pit

Anyone who wants to escape the baking sun can find relief in the legendary ‘pit’, buried 20 feet below the chapel. Here, at the bottom of a rusty ladder of questionable reliability, visitors can experience the very spot where Saint Gregory the Illuminator was kept prisoner.

Gregory was eventually freed by King Tiridates III. He went on to play a key role in spreading Christianity throughout the country. Baptizing the monarchy, he paved the way for Armenia to become the first officially Christian state in world history. As holes in the ground go, this one is certainly more historic than most.

To my surprise, I found myself standing completely alone at the bottom of the pit. Admittedly, the oppressive ladder climb isn’t the most inviting, but the reward was the chance to occupy – if only for a couple of minutes – a space of immense historic and religious importance. Indeed, the very name ‘Khor Virap’ means ‘deep pit’.

The space was predictably small, and softly lit by a few candles. The hum of a weak electric light was the only audible sound, other than the occasional faint voice from above. A small, unassuming icon of Saint Gregory hung in a shallow alcove. The pit was otherwise empty.

I spent some moments enjoying the stillness, and wondering how on earth anyone lasted 13 years down here. Eventually, it was time to climb back up the ladder and out into the open.

Admiring the church at Khor Virap

Aside from the fascinating pit, the rest of the Khor Virap complex is set in a courtyard. The centrepiece is known as the Church of the Holy Mother of God. Its dome can be seen from the road, famously superimposed against the slopes of Ararat.

The interior of the church is charming in its simplicity. Slivers of bright light sneak through a handful of thin windows, cutting through the grey smoke rising from rows of flickering candles.

We didn’t need too long inside. After admiring the small number of religious paintings adorning the walls, we made our exit just before a big group rushed excitedly through the doors.

Read next: Discover the best things to do in Lake Sevan, one of the best day trips from Yerevan

Khor Virap’s Backdrop: Mount Ararat

Everywhere you turned, Mount Ararat dominated the landscape. A tall cross stands on a small hillock just above Khor Virap. We decided to head up to enjoy the vista.

We were joined on the short walk by a weary stray dog, looking exhausted by the day. As soon as he realised we had no snacks to offer, he let out a sigh of defeat, before slumping to the ground.

The dog’s eyes followed us as we took in the views. Mount Ararat is a symbol of Armenia, despite lying inside Turkish territory. Even from this most famous of landmarks, we could see the heavy-duty fence which marks the border between the two nations.

The mountain has two distinct peaks – imaginatively named Greater Ararat (5187m) and Little Ararat (3896m). It is perhaps best known as the purported resting place of Noah’s Ark, whose remains are said to be hidden on the upper slopes. Despite numerous searches, no evidence of the Ark has been found.

Commercial trips to reach the summit of Ararat are popular, although external factors affect the accessibility of the mountain. The area has been a frequent flash-point between the Turkish military and Kurdish separatists, leading to prolonged periods of closure. Nonetheless, when it is open for climbing, it remains a popular challenge for mountaineers.

I wonder if, on a clear day, you can spot Khor Virap from the top.

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