The sleepy dog looked up wearily, raising his head from the warm, dusty rock to take a tired glimpse in our direction. He held our gaze for a few seconds before letting out a resigned sigh and flopping back to the floor. We stepped gingerly over his flailing limbs and through a narrow gap in the wall. Beneath us, the grand Roman theatre of Hierapolis sprawled out. A handful of fellow tourists picked their way cautiously along the steep stone terraces, stopping occasionally to snap a photo.
In the distance, we could see crowds of visitors sprawling across the ruins of Hierapolis, an ancient city perched just above the glimmering travertine terraces of Pamukkale. Many of them were making their way from the travertines to the Cleopatra bathing pools, eager to experience the healing waters once said to have enchanted the Egyptian queen herself.
We were exploring Hierapolis as part of a Turkey trip that took us from Antalya to İzmir and finally from İzmir to Urla, an emerging foodie destination that is attracting increasing attention from international travellers. We stopped at Pamukkale for a night along the way, leaving us a morning to see as much of Hierapolis as possible. Here’s how we did it.
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Entering the Hierapolis site
We had arranged to get a lift from the patriarch of the very generous family who ran our hotel. Our host met us in the courtyard at the crack of dawn, just as the first rays of sun were starting to peek over the horizon. We piled into his dusty 4×4 alongside his young grandson, who had excitedly insisted on coming along for the drive.
Within a couple of minutes, we were bouncing up the winding road towards the car park at the South Gate of Hierapolis. At that early hour, there was hardly anyone around – in fact, the only people we could see were the staff at the entrance. After a quick scan of our tickets – purchased for 30 Euros each from the official website the night before – we were in.
A stroll on the Travertines
At this time of day, before the crowds arrived, we couldn’t resist wandering across the iconic limestone shelves that adorn every Pamukkale postcard. The travertines – formed by mineral-rich hot springs – were already comfortably warm underfoot. We slipped off our shoes (mandatory for protecting the delicate surface) and tiptoed across the textured rock.
A few people were already in full ‘influencer’ photo shoot mode, posing in skimpy swimsuits against the powder-white backdrop. We even spotted someone in a garish pair of angel wings leading a sleepy photographer to the best views. It’s what Cleopatra would have wanted.
After enjoying the travertines, we dried our feet and padded across the damp stone leading back to our shoes. Checking the time, we were conscious that our coach from Denizli to İzmir was due to depart at 12pm, so we only had a few hours before we needed to retrieve our rucksacks from the hotel and leave Pamukkale. With that in mind, we decided to head for the furthest point on the map: the necropolis of Hierapolis, on the city’s northern edge.
Heading to the Necropolis
The necropolis is a 20-minute stroll from the main travertines. It doesn’t sound like a lot, but it can be quite the ordeal in the baking heat of a Turkish summer. As soon as we stepped onto the broad, dusty path leading to the necropolis, a small convoy of tourists whizzed past us in oversized golf buggies. The coach tours had arrived, and their tight schedules meant a whirlwind approach to seeing the sights.
A quick walk along the quieter Travertines
We were slightly less restricted on time, but the early morning sun was already hot, and we were tempted – on more than one occasion – to hail a buggy ourselves. However, walking granted us a solitude that we would otherwise have missed. Aside from the buggy groups, we saw scarcely another soul on our walk to the necropolis, which was a welcome respite from the already swelling crowds near the travertines.
Our first stop en route was a wooden walkway overlooking what we nicknamed the “second” or “quiet” travertines. This is a protected area where walking on the stone is not allowed. Because it’s off-limits, few people venture here, giving us a serene vantage point over a series of dry, cracked terraces and trickling calcite pools. In the distance, we could see the ruins of the medieval fortress – the largest monument at Hierapolis, dating back to the Middle Ages.
The approach to the tombs
Soon, we spotted the first of many tombs. Hundreds – perhaps thousands – of stone sarcophagi lay scattered across the baked hillside on Hierapolis’ northern outskirts. Most of the tombs line the ancient Roman road that once led into the city, though a few cluster right on the travertine’s edge. The grey-brown of the tombs stands in stark contrast to the brilliant white limestone, creating a beautifully eerie scene.
We paused to snap a few photos before we reached the main necropolis. At the peak of the city’s powers, this vast burial ground would have contained thousands of graves, stretching for more than a kilometre. Today, over 1,000 tombs still survive, any many are in surprisingly good condition.
It didn’t take long to spot that a number of the tombs feature elaborate carvings – mythological creatures, floral patterns, scenes from everyday life. These offered tantalising glimpses into the beliefs and customs of Hierapolis’s ancient inhabitants. We could have spent hours wandering around the necropolis, taking the time to admire each tomb in turn. They stretched far up the slopes of the hills above the city, making it a perfect activity for anyone looking to get off the beaten track and avoid the crowds.
Heading through the Domitian Gate to the Agora
Sadly, a short visit to the necropolis was all we had time for. We turned back, making our way southeast towards the impressive Domitian, or Frontinus, Gate, an imposing stone structure that once marked the city’s grand northern entrance. Just beyond the gate lies the colonnaded Frontinus Street, which leads towards the agora (the ancient marketplace) and the heart of Hierapolis.
The Domitian Gate is often cited as a highlight of any visit to the ancient city – and rightly so, with its monumental arches and weather-worn columns offering a tantilising glimpse into the past.
As we strolled through the gate, the stone colonnades flanked us on either side. It was still relatively quiet, save for a lone gentleman in the distance whose sun-bleached hair matched the dusty hues of the ruins themselves. We ambled along slowly, soaking in the atmosphere – ancient pillars leaning at awkward angles, sections of marble pavement still faintly visible beneath layers of dust.
Eventually, we reached the end of the street and caught our first proper glimpse of the theatre – one of the most popular sights in Hierapolis. By now, a steady trickle of visitors was already climbing towards the top of the stands, some clutching umbrellas for respite from the now-searing sun.
Admiring the views of Hierapolis from the theatre
We joined the procession along the dusty path, sweat gathering on our brows. To our right, piles of carved stone columns lay like discarded puzzle pieces from an ancient jigsaw. To our left, a small sign pointed up the hill to a ruined temple, though we couldn’t see a single soul venturing that way.
Our final obstacle before entering the theatre was the slumbering dog – you may remember him from the introduction. He lay draped across the threshold, clearly reluctant to move a muscle. His dappled paws twitched as we approached, but aside from a half-opened eye, he remained unconcerned. We gingerly stepped over him and made our way inside.
The theatre, built in the 2nd century AD and subsequently renovated under several Roman emperors, is a staggering feat of ancient engineering. Its two-tiered seating once held up to 15,000 spectators, who gathered to watch dramas, comedies and other performances. Even now, the acoustics are impressive – as demonstrated by a noisy group whose persistent shouts echoed eerily around the cavernous space. We sat for a while and took in the scene before heading back down the hill.
Dicing with death at the Ploutonion
Arguably the most intriguing- and certainly the most deadly – attraction in Hierapolis is just downhill from the theatre. Known as the Ploutonion (Pluto’s Gate) or, more aptly, the Gate to Hell, this mysterious cave was used by the priests of the ancient Mother Goddess Cybele (and later by Roman pilgrims) to sacrifice animals. Legend states that any creature led into the cavern would succumb to the toxic fumes that seeped from deep underground.
Today, you can peer down into the Ploutonion at Hierapolis from a safe distance on the narrow walkways that snake above it. Even now, deadly carbon dioxide gases bubble up through the murky water at the cave’s entrance, offering an eerie spectacle that harks back to Hierapolis’s darker, more mystical side. For many visitors, however, it seemed to offer another compelling backdrop for an Instagram-style photoshoot.
A short dash around the museum courtyard
We still had a little time before catching our dolmuş back to Pamukkale, so we dashed to the courtyard of the Hierapolis Archaeology Museum, housed in what was once the Roman Baths. We didn’t have time to venture inside, which was a pity – the museum boasts an impressive array of statues, sarcophagi and artefacts unearthed from Hierapolis and nearby sites such as Laodicea.
Outside, in the courtyard, we wandered among a handful of large sculptures, tombs and ancient friezes. Through the fence, we could see a queue beginning to form at the entrance to the Cleopatra pools – bathers lining up for a chance to soak in the warm, mineral-rich waters rumoured to be Cleopatra’s secret beauty weapon.
Waving goodbye to Hierapolis
Before we knew it, our time in Hierapolis was up, and we needed to make our way to Denizli. Truth be told, we’d barely scratched the surface of this extensive site – but we had experienced enough to glean something of the city’s grandeur. We took our final glimpses of the distant necropolis and the looming theatre before making our way back onto the shining white travertines for the short walk down to the exit to Pamukkale.
Our top tips for exploring Hierapolis
Hierapolis is a huge site, and most visitors – like us – will have limited time to explore. Here are our top tips for making the most of your visit.
- Arrive early: The South Gate of the Hierapolis site opens at 7am, which is an hour earlier than the North Gate and the Town Entrance. If you’re staying in Pamukkale, set an early alarm and ask your hotel to arrange transport to the South Gate. It’s worth the early start, since:
- You’ll beat the crowds at the travertines and have more freedom to explore the ruins in relative peace.
- You’ll avoid the worst of the midday heat, which in summer can exceed 40°C (104°F).
- Buy your Hierapolis ticket online: It doesn’t save you any money, but it may just save you from queuing. Simply scan the digital ticket at the barrier upon arrival. You can buy your Hierapolis ticket from the official Turkish museums website. When we visited, the entrance fee for Hierapolis was 30 Euros per person.
- Take plenty of water: Hierapolis is huge, and the distances between key sights can be significant. You’ll find shops selling refreshments near the Cleopatra pools, but elsewhere, water is scarce.
- Don’t ignore the quiet areas: The “second” travertines and the far reaches of the necropolis are far less crowded than the main attractions. They’re perfect for peaceful exploration and photography.
- Consider hiring a golf cart: If you’re short on time or feeling the heat, the golf carts are a practical solution. The necropolis is a 20-minute walk from the travertines, so a buggy can help you see more of the site without rushing.
- Follow the signs around the travertines: In order to protect the delicate formations, you’re only permitted to walk on a specific section. Anywhere else is off-limits, so tread carefully – you will (rightly) be shouted at by security guards if you try to break the rules.
Note: If you choose to head to the South Gate, we strongly recommend you get a lift from your accommodation or arrange a taxi. Whilst it may be tempting to look at a map and decide to walk along the road, there are frequent reports of aggressive stray dogs along the route. We’ve found that strays tend to be at their most lively in the early mornings, so we suggest playing it safe and taking a car.
Our favourite spots at Hierapolis
- The Domitian Gate: This imposing Roman arch once guarded the northern approach to the city and now offers a majestic entry point for modern-day explorers.
- The mysterious necropolis: One of the largest ancient cemeteries in Turkey, filled with centuries-old tombs and sarcophagi, each with its own story to tell. You could spend days here (if you really, really wanted to).
- The Ploutonion: Infamously known as the “Gate to Hell”, this ancient site was believed to be a portal to the underworld where fatal fumes claimed the lives of sacrificial animals. We were fascinated to watch the bubbles of deadly gases still bubbling up through the water.
- The “second” travertines: You can’t walk on them, but the panoramic view – and the lack of crowds – makes this a must-see spot.
How to get to Hierapolis
By plane: The nearest airport to Hierapolis is Denizli Çardak Airport, which is roughly an hour’s drive from Pamukkale. However, most international visitors fly into Antalya or İzmir and then travel onward by bus or car. This is what we did: flying into Antalya and then stopping at Pamukkale on our way to İzmir.
From Antalya: Several bus companies operate daily services to Denizli. From Denizli’s bus station, you can catch a minibus (dolmuş) or taxi to Pamukkale, which is about 20 kilometres away. We wholeheartedly recommend Kamil Koç – the buses were on time, air-conditioned, and incredibly comfortable. You can book tickets for Kamil Koç directly via the Flixbus website.
From İzmir: There are frequent direct buses from İzmir to Denizli. These take around 4 hours – again, we would recommend using Kamil Koç. Once in Denizli, you can easily reach Pamukkale by dolmuş or taxi.
More detail on the dolmuş from Denizli to Pamukkale
We decided to take a dolmuş (shared minibus) from Denizli to Pamukkale. Here’s how we did it:
- After arriving at Denizli bus station from Antalya, it was time to find the dolmuş. The long-distance coaches arrive at the upper level of the Denizli bus station, but the local dolmuş fleet departs from platforms on the lower level of the bus station.
- To reach the lower level, we took an escalator, which was easy to find – it’s right in the middle of the bus station building. You should be able to see it when you step through the doors from the coach platforms.
- The dolmuş platforms on the lower level are numbered. You may spot a big board that lists all the route numbers for the local buses. As of May 2024, the dolmuş from Denizli to Pamukkale is number 76.
- We looked for platform 76 and were pleasantly surprised to find it within a few seconds. The dolmuş was mostly empty, save for one or two people sitting on the seats nearest the door. We checked the sign on the front of the dolmuş – it said ‘Pamukkale’ and boarded the bus. We ended up waiting 25 minutes before the dolmuş was full and we set off on our journey to Pamukkale.
- Once the dolmuş departed, each passenger passed their fee to the driver. If you’ve never done this before, don’t worry – it’s not as confusing as it sounds! Simply pass your cash forward, and your fellow passengers will pass your change back to you.
When we travelled in May 2024, the fee for a one-way ticket on the dolmuş from Denizli to Pamukkale was 24 TL.
Where to stay near Hierapolis
We recommend basing yourself in the small town of Pamukkale for the easiest access to Hierapolis. Many guesthouses and hotels are within walking distance of the travertines and the southern entrance gate.
If you want to enter the site early – like we did – ask your host about arranging a ride to the South Gate just before it opens. This ensures you’ll be among the first to set foot on the travertines and the streets of Hierapolis.
We stayed at the Aspawa Hotel, which proved to be excellent value at £27 per night. The accommodation is basic but comfortable, and the family who runs the guest house is super friendly – as demonstrated by their kind lift to the northern gate of Hierapolis just after sunrise.
If you fancy splashing out on fancier accommodation, the Venus Suite Hotel (from £57 a night) and the Whiteheaven Suite Hotel (from £100 a night) are two of the most popular choices.
Hierapolis: Our Final Thoughts
We left Hierapolis dusty, sweaty, but thoroughly enchanted. It’s a unique place – the majesty of ancient Rome meeting the uncanny beauty of Pamukkale’s white-washed terraces. We both agreed that there’s something for everyone here – whether you’re a history buff keen to explore ancient tombs and theatres, or a casual traveller looking to photograph stunning landscapes.
Cleopatra’s pools, the theatre and the glistening travertines may be the headline acts, but don’t miss the quieter corners – the deserted roads, silent tombs and hidden views are just as worthy of your attention. Our only regret is that we couldn’t explore for longer.