Whilst many visitors to Kosovo flock to the cities of Prizren and Pristina, the small town of Gjakova is well worth a detour during a trip around Europe’s youngest country. Boasting one of the longest – if not the longest – bazaars in this area of Europe, as well as plenty of other historic sites, Gjakova offers a wonderful alternative to Kosovo’s busier spots.
We visited Gjakova on a quiet October day and relished the change of pace. From exploring the fascinating Old Bazaar to crossing an ancient Ottoman bridge, here are 10 of our favourite things to do during a day in Gjakova.
We will also explain why we wanted to visit, and how to get to Gjakova by bus from Peja or Prizren.
Why we wanted to visit Gjakova
When we were putting together our Kosovo itinerary, we knew we wanted to visit the cities of Prizren and Peja. After putting together our final route, we realised we had a spare day – a perfect opportunity to explore another place. A research mission began.
We needed somewhere with easy access by public transport where we could happily spend a day exploring. It didn’t take long before we decided on Gjakova. Situated almost exactly halfway between Prizren and Peja, Gjakova stood out for a few reasons:
- Gjakova boasts one of the longest bazaars in Europe. The main street of the Grand Bazaar stretches for around one kilometre from north to south through the heart of the city.
- Gjakova’s bazaar is home to some amazing artisans. The city has a long tradition of crafts, with makers producing everything from guns to cradles within the bazaar’s hundreds of workshops. While many of these trades, sadly, no longer exist, there are still some who are keeping the traditions alive.
- Gjakova is easy to reach by bus from both Peja and Prizren. Crucially for our packed itinerary, Gjakova is ideally located on the main road between Peja and Prizren. This makes it an easy stop during a trip around Kosovo.
One day in Gjakova: how to get to the city
The best way to get to Gjakova is by bus. There are dozens of buses every day from the nearby cities of Peja and Prizren – here’s how to make the journey.
Getting to Gjakova by bus from Peja
First bus: The first bus from Peja to Gjakova leaves at 06:00.
Last bus: The last bus from Peja to Gjakova leaves at 18:30. The last bus from Gjakova to Peja leaves at 18:45.
Cost: A ticket for the bus from Peja to Gjakova should cost around 3 euros.
Timetables: The timetables for the bus from Peja to Gjakova are displayed in the bus station building. When we visited, there were over 40 buses each day from Peja to Gjakova.
Duration: The journey from Peja to Gjakova takes around one hour by bus.
Getting to Gjakova by bus from Prizren
First bus: The first bus from Prizren to Gjakova leaves at 06:00.
Last bus: The last bus from Prizren to Gjakova leaves at 18:30. The last bus from Gjakova to Prizren leaves at 18:30.
Cost: A ticket for the bus from Prizren to Gjakova should cost 3 euros. You can pay with cash on the bus.
Timetables: The timetables for the bus from Prizren to Gjakova are displayed in the Prizren bus station building. There were around 25 buses each day between Prizren and Gjakova.
Duration: The journey from Prizren to Gjakova takes around one hour by bus.
It is also possible to catch the bus from Pristina to Gjakova. As with Peja and Prizren, there are dozens of departures each day between the two cities. The journey should take around 90 minutes.
Our experience catching the bus to Gjakova
We caught the bus from Prizren. On our travels, we hopped on the 10am service from Prizren bus station.
The system for buying tickets is straightforward – you simply pay on the bus. The friendly ticket inspector spoke good English (although we did try our best Albanian!), and we had no issues getting our tickets.
The bus was a full-sized coach, and there were only four other passengers when we set off from the bus station on a sunny Tuesday morning. The bus didn’t stop anywhere else in Prizren city centre – it just left the bus station and headed straight out of town.
Along the way, we noticed the significant investment going into infrastructure around Prizren. New roads were being built. New bus stops were being installed. There was lots going on.
We picked up a few more passengers along the way. The journey sped by in a flash. The occasional Kosovo Liberation Army war memorial appeared every so often on the side of the road. We kept an eye out for the Ottoman-era Tailor’s Bridge, which would provide a tantalising preview of things to come in Gjakova. Otherwise, the impressive mountain backdrop provided the best of the views from the bus.
Eventually, after just under one hour, we arrived at Gjakova bus station. From here, we had a 20-minute walk from the bus station to reach Gjakova’s Old Bazaar.
Read next: For more information on bus stations in Kosovo, click here to read our guide.
10 of our favourite things to do in Gjakova
Once we arrived in Gjakova, we found that there were more than enough things to see and do during our day. Unsurprisingly, many of these are centred around the beautiful Old Bazaar – but we’ve included a few of our highlights from around the wider city.
1) Stroll the streets of the wonderful Old Bazaar of Gjakova
Best for: Visiting one of the biggest bazaars in the Balkans.
Gjakova’s Old Bazaar (Čaršija e Madhe) is a fascinating place. Dating back to the Ottoman period, the bazaar is one of the largest of its kind in South Eastern Europe, with hundreds of buildings dedicated to trade and commerce.
As you wander the streets of the bazaar, you will notice the traditional Ottoman architectural style. Terracotta rooftops sit atop one or two-storey buildings. Many of these line the long main street, but others branch off onto smaller side streets parallel to the central boulevard.
A visit to the Old Bazaar is made all the more interesting by the fact that much of what you are wandering through is a recent reconstruction. During the conflict in the late 1990s, the majority of the Old Bazaar suffered immense damage, with many buildings burned to the ground by Serbian forces.
Through a combination of private donations and international aid, much of the damage has now been repaired, and buildings have been reconstructed in the old, traditional style. It’s an impressive rebirth for an area that witnessed so much destruction. A few plaques and posters around the Old Bazaar commemorate the rebuilding efforts – keep an eye out for them.
2) Visit a traditional cradle maker’s workshop
Best for: Learning about one of Gjakova’s most beautiful crafts.
One of our favourite things to do in Gjakova’s Old Bazaar was visiting Rudzhi Qarri, a carpenter whose workshop stands on the main street. Wooden cradles- handcrafted and handpainted as gifts for newborn children- are one of the core specialisms of the bazaar.
Ruzdhi Qarri has been making his beautiful cradles for decades. His workshop was open during our visit, so we wandered through the door and enjoyed a warm welcome.
Ruzdhi told us about his long career, proudly showing us photographs of his children and his work, which he has exhibited internationally. It was a lovely chat, and Ruzdhi’s pride in his work shone through. The craftsmanship is remarkable, and he was one of the friendliest people we met on our trip.
Whilst our hand luggage allowance didn’t quite stretch to taking a full-sized cradle back to the UK, we were happy to spot other, smaller items for sale. We bought a few of these – including honey drizzlers – as souvenirs and as a reminder of our visit to the cradle maker of Gjakova.
How to do it: You can find Rudzhi Qarri’s workshop here.
3) Admire the traditional clothing shops of Gjakova
Best for: Seeing the intricate national costumes.
Whilst exploring the streets of Gjakova’s Old Bazaar, you can’t help but notice the many shops selling traditional national costumes. These outfits hang outside the shops in their dozens, a dazzling flash of bright red and white.
As well as admiring the clothing, be sure to take your time to notice other small details. For example, peering through the windows of the stores might allow you to spot the tailors at work. We saw rooms decked out with countless pieces of fabric, and people working carefully with sewing machines to piece items of clothing together.
4) Wander around the Hadum Mosque
Best for: Visiting the most famous mosque in Gjakova.
The Hadum Mosque (Xhamia e Hadumit) stands next to the main street of Gjakova’s Old Bazaar. Dating back to the end of the 16th century, the mosque is a typical example of an “Islamic-Kosovar” architectural style, with a classic dome atop a rectangular structure.
Incredibly, the Hadum Mosque managed to survive the 1999 war. Although the building did sustain some damage – notably to the minaret, library and wooden portico – much of the structure remained standing. Some subsequent restoration work has since taken place.
The gardens are peaceful and well-maintained. When we visited, an older gentleman was cleaning the cobbles using a power hose. A cat sat on the edge of a wall, watching it all.
How to visit: The mosque complex is free to enter. It’s worth heading inside the mosque itself to admire the intricate stonework and paintings.
5) Gaze up at Gjakova’s Clock Tower
Best for: A slice of history rising into the Gjakova skyline.
Gjakova’s Clock Tower rises about 30 metres above the rooftops of the Old Bazaar. Like its surroundings, the tower’s history dates back to the late 16th century. However, the Clock Tower that currently stands in Gjakova is a more recent addition.
The original clock tower from the 1590s suffered irreparable damage during the Balkan Wars in 1912. Eventually, the new tower rose to take the place of the original. The tower still tells the time and is an easy landmark to spot as you stroll around the bazaar.
How to do it: You cannot climb the Clock Tower in Gjakova, so you will only need a few minutes to admire the building whilst exploring the Old Bazaar.
6) Learn about the history of Gjakova at the Ethnographic Museum
Best for: Looking around a traditional Ottoman house packed with artefacts.
Gjakova’s Ethnographic Museum occupies a picturesque, upper-class Ottoman house that used to be home to one of the city’s most prominent families. Built over two storeys, the museum tells the story of the population of Gjakova through the ages – from an agricultural past to the modern day.
When we visited, we weren’t sure whether the Ethnographic Museum was open. The door was closed, and the lights appeared to be turned off. We wandered down the stone path towards the entrance.
Just as we approached the door and were about to turn around, we heard a creak. The door swung slowly open, and a man stepped outside to greet us.
We spent the next 45 minutes enjoying a private tour of the museum. It has an extensive collection – far more so than we assumed when we first walked through the garden gate.
The ground floor is home to everything from traditional hats and tools to typewriters of all shapes and sizes. Everything tells the story of the town and people of Gjakova. Upstairs has a similarly eclectic mixture, with musical instruments, costumes and carpets.
How to do it: The museum is free to enter and should be open most days. Even if it looks closed, it is worth walking up to the door to double-check.
7) Stroll past the small Serbian Orthodox Monastery
Best for: A small glimpse of Serbian Orthodoxy in Gjakova
Halfway between the bus station and the Old Bazaar is the Serbian Monastery of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. This small monastery is tucked away down a quiet side street. To be honest, there isn’t much to see from the outside – you can spot the bell tower and a few rooftops, but little else.
Tall walls and fencing guard the perimeter. A couple of Serbian nuns live behind the walls, tending to the upkeep of the building. You may be able to enter, but it appeared to be closed during our visit. Otherwise, it’s an interesting detour for a few minutes.
8) Walk over the Ottoman-era Tanners’ Bridge
Best for: An eye-catching ancient bridge.
It is well worth making the extra journey from the southern edge of the Old Bazaar down to this bridge, which crosses the Erenik River.
The bridge dates back to the late 18th century, when the city’s guild of tanners used it to help transport goods to the city of Shkoder in Albania. Another example of a similar bridge – the Tailors’ Bridge – is on the road from Prizren to Gjakova. See if you can spot it from the window of your bus.
There is not much to see around the bridge – it’s a large expanse of grassland, possibly the early stages of a construction site. In the river, underneath the two bridges, a small group of local boys stood with fishing rods, waiting patiently for a catch.
The bridge stands next to a busy road, along which trucks and cars rumble noisily. We noticed that pedestrians, too, preferred the flat concrete of the new bridge to the wavy cobbles of the Tanners’ bridge. And, having walked across the Tanners’ bridge ourselves, we can’t blame the good people of Gjakova for choosing the newer version.
It’s worth strolling over the bridge, but there isn’t much excitement awaiting you on the other side. Nonetheless, it’s a beautiful structure – with seven striking arches – and we were pleased we made the walk down, even on a boiling hot day.
Thankfully, a nearby supermarket is well-stocked with plenty of snacks and refrigerated drinks. This was a perfect stop for cooling off before walking back up the hill towards the Old Bazaar.
9) Grab a drink on the northern tip of the Old Bazaar
Best for: The social heart of Gjakova.
The northern edge of the Old Bazaar is the best place to head for a coffee or refreshment in Gjakova. There are a dozen or so cafes and bars to choose from, all of which should offer coffee, tea or beer.
We sat here, enjoying an espresso and a tea and watching the world go by. It was midweek, so the streets were pretty quiet. A handful of other groups came and went – mostly friends or colleagues catching up for twenty minutes and then moving on. If you stay here into the evening, this is the place to be, with thousands of people packed into the cafes and bars.
Read next: Our guide to exploring Prizren Fortress.
10) Take a look at the wall of US Presidents
Best for: A quirky stop-off on your way back to the bus station.
This one is a bit of a wildcard entry. We accidentally stumbled across it when seeking out some free public toilets to use before returning to Gjakova bus station.
In a quiet corner of the Center Mall shopping centre, a handful of sofas and chairs sit under a wall covered in portraits of every US President. From Donald Trump to Abraham Lincoln, everybody is up there.
Bill Clinton and George Bush take centre stage – the former is a particularly popular figure in Kosovo thanks to his work during the war. You can find the wall of presidents on one of the upper floors near the bathrooms. Truth be told, it’s probably not worth a detour just to see it – but it’s a nice bonus if you do need to use the bathroom here before catching your bus.
One day in Gjakova: our final thoughts
Whilst it may be one of the smaller cities on the Kosovo tourist trail, Gjakova offers a splendid change of pace compared to the busy streets of Prizren or Pristina. As we strolled around, we didn’t hear or see any other visitors – we must have been two of just a handful of tourists in the city. It was a great opportunity to immerse ourselves into the rhythm of everyday life in Gjakova, and to have conversations and interactions at a slower pace than would otherwise have been possible. Our visit to the cradle workshop was a prime example – an unrushed and unhurried experience that will forever be a highlight of our time in Kosovo.