Fort William was to be the second base of our Scotland road trip. More specifically, we’d be staying in the small village of Banavie, less than five minutes from the town.
Our trip had begun in the beautiful Loch Lomond National Park before heading up the spectacular A82 to reach Fort William. We’d be based here for two nights and couldn’t wait to see what the area had to offer.
Fort William is, famously, synonymous with Ben Nevis – the UK’s tallest mountain. The peak looms over the town and attracts visitors in their thousands to attempt the long ascent to its summit.
We’d be resisting the temptation to climb Ben Nevis on this occasion. It was certainly a tantalising prospect. However, given that Matt had already bagged it on a previous trip, and taking into account our still aching knees, we decided to give it a miss on this occasion.
This left us with two full days to explore the area. After spending our first evening checking out the area around Banavie, we’d be heading back to Glencoe on our first day for some low-level hiking. Our second day would be a real adventure. We’d be driving to the coastal town of Mallaig before boarding a ferry for the wild and remote Knoydart peninsula. Bring it on!
Day One: Exploring Banavie
Banavie is a small but significant village. Like Fort William, it sits on the shores of Loch Linnhe and is overlooked by Ben Nevis. However, it is certainly worth a visit in its own right.
As we set off to explore the village on foot, it didn’t take long to realise that Banavie is well connected for such a small place. It sits right on the main route between Fort William and Mallaig, a road well travelled by the hundreds of thousands who visit the Scottish islands each year. It also boasts a small train station, providing access to the entire UK train network.
Admiring Neptune’s Staircase
Aside from road and rail, it didn’t take long to stumble across the start of the Caledonian Canal at Corpach. This incredible waterway provides a route for boats up to Inverness on Scotland’s North East coast. Perhaps one of the most impressive sections of the Caledonian Canal runs straight through Banavie – the wonderfully named Neptune’s Staircase.
According to the experts at the ever-reliable Wikipedia, Neptune’s Staircase is the longest staircase lock in Britain. It sits just on the edge of Banavie and comprises eight separate locks. These rise in a stepped pattern, which gives the ‘Staircase’ its name. It’s a serious piece of engineering, which will take boats upwards of 90 minutes to pass through.
Truth be told, the true scale of Neptune’s Staircase is probably best appreciated from the air. Stretching nearly a quarter of a mile, it’s pretty hard to take it all in at ground level. We found the best vantage point to be from the pavement of the road bridge. From here, you can see all the different locks rising up in front of you.
Banavie’s Abandoned Boat: The Corpach Shipwreck
The rocky beach of Corpach and Banavie is a fantastic spot to enjoy the peaceful waters of Loch Linnhe. It also boasts impressive views across to Ben Nevis. In recent years, the beach has become home to a new feature – a vast abandoned fishing vessel known as the Corpach Shipwreck.
The unfortunate boat, the MV Dayspring, was grounded on the beach during a wild storm in 2011. It has stood on the shore ever since, rusting slowly away, and becoming an increasingly popular photography subject.
Indeed, there’s something fascinatingly morose about abandoned boats. Each has its own history, stories of past owners and crew which may never be told. As we walked down to the wreck’s hull, it was easy to understand its draw. It’s almost perfectly located, balanced right on the water’s edge, with Ben Nevis framed directly behind it.
We admired the boat, capturing a few snaps. This stretch of coast was quite remarkable, and we returned several times over the next few days. From the views across the loch, to the sunset over Ben Nevis, this little place was a perfect spot to spend a quiet hour or two.
Day Two: Hiking in Glencoe
We set the alarm early for our first full day around Fort William. As it happened, we were planning on heading back to Glencoe in an attempt to beat the crowds and enjoy a few hikes. Although you can get a sense of the incredible landscape as you whizz through on the A82, the best way to enjoy Glencoe is on foot.
The First Hike: Beneath the Shadow of the Three Sisters
Having set off from Fort William just after dawn, we arrived in Glencoe with the mist still lifting from the valley floor. It made for a spectacular, mystical entrance, and it looked like it would be a fantastic day for hiking.
We arrived at one of the car parks, which had been packed to capacity the day before. Despite our early start, it was already filling up with hikers and climbers. Everyone was looking to take advantage of the clear skies and enjoy a day in the hills.
Our first hike would be along the valley floor, watched over by the buttresses of the ‘Three Sisters of Glencoe’. This is perhaps the most famous and fantastic section of Glencoe. It didn’t take long to cover plenty of distance. We headed first in the direction of Loch Achtriochtan, along the gentle waters of the River Coe.
Once we began to approach the Loch, we doubled back on ourselves, enjoying the first rays of sunlight hitting our faces as they rose above the hills. We continued further up the valley, finally crossing the river via a small, inconspicuous footbridge. From here, the track would have taken us into the famous ‘Hidden Glen’ of Glencoe, steeped in clan history.
Instead of heading down into the Hidden Glen, which would have committed us to a much longer hike, we chose instead to head back to the car park. On our journey the day before, we’d spotted a glen a little further down the road, with an enticing footpath which we were keen to check out…
Read next: Things to see in Polonnaruwa in Sri Lanka
The Second Hike: Exploring Secluded Glens
You don’t need to journey too far away from the main A82 thoroughfare to feel like you have Glencoe to yourself. Sure, the car parks do tend to fill up pretty quickly – particularly in good weather – but these can all be gateways to some brilliantly secluded places.
Our next hike took us down the Lairig Gartain trail, a delightful path that followed the River Coupall and is often combined as a circular walk with Glen Etive.
Given our diminished supplies (i.e. Matt had left lunch in the car…), we chose to keep our hike to an out-and-back. Once we’d set off, it didn’t take long before the rumble of the traffic disappeared, and we were wrapped in the warm silence of the hills.
It was a lovely walk, and we could count on two hands the number of people we saw along the way. A noticeable contrast to the relative bustle of the car parks! The sun was shining, and everyone was in a great mood, stopping to talk about their trips. We were all grateful to be here, enjoying the outdoors in a much-needed break from the realities of life during a pandemic.
We spotted a large bird of prey gliding silently among the tall crags high above us on our return leg. It was a classic Highlands scene, and a great way to end our hike down this delightful trail.
Glencoe Visitor Center
After wolfing down a late lunch, we set back off in the direction of the Glencoe Visitor Center. This is absolutely worth a detour, with some great exhibits and displays which gave us an insight into how this dramatic landscape was shaped.
Socially distanced staff were on hand to give insights and recommendations for hikes, climbs and activities. After a quick chat, we left feeling like we needed to book another two weeks off to do the area justice! Instead, we would have to settle for one final short walk along a lovely little circular route that skirted the grounds of the visitor centre.
From the highest point, we had great views back towards Glencoe, as well as towards Loch Leven and the village of Glencoe. By the time we arrived back at the car, we’d certainly bagged a healthy step-count for the day. So it was finally time to take off our walking boots, and make our way back to our cabin at Banavie.
Day Three: The Wilderness of Knoydart
Believe it or not, there are still a handful of places on the UK mainland that aren’t accessible by overland transport. The Knoydart peninsula is one such place and certainly one of the most stunning.
Stretching over 55,000 acres and home to well over 100 people, Knoydart is a rugged landscape of mountains, rivers and valleys. Its remoteness and beauty make it a favourite for hikers and wild campers, many of whom will look to complete the multi-day “walk-in” to the main village of Inverie.
Inverie is home to most of Knoydart’s residents, and this is where we’d be heading today. Rather than two or three days, however, we’d be taking the 45-minute ferry from the coastal town of Mallaig via Western Isle Cruises – a genuine lifeline service for the community.
Driving from Fort William to Mallaig
Mallaig lies just over 40 miles from Fort William, a journey of roughly one hour by car. However, like many of the routes in this part of Scotland, there are too many tempting viewpoints and attractions along the way to manage the journey in just 60 minutes.
We were booked on the mid-morning ferry and gave ourselves just under three hours for the drive. The route roughly follows the train line, along which the famous Jacobite steam service runs – a journey that reaches a climax at the iconic Glenfinnan viaduct.
As we sped towards the viaduct, with the sun having just risen, any hopes of getting some early morning lighting had already faded. A thick morning fog had blanketed the landscape, and we could see very little for the first 30 minutes of the journey. Indeed, as we drove through the village of Glenfinnan, neither the viaduct nor the top of the famous monument could be seen. Atmospheric? Yes. Worth stopping? Probably not.
The sun had risen high enough that the fog was beginning to burn off a short while later. This made for some spectacular views as the road started to climb. Every so often, we’d drive past bodies of water, where small ripples sparkled in the crisp morning sun. Invariably, there would be a camper van or two at each lay-by, and travellers were starting to appear for a morning coffee with a genuinely world-class view.
On the final approach to Mallaig, the road eventually reached a peak. Here, we got our first glimpse of the incredible view over the narrow stretch of sea towards the dramatic Cuillin range on Skye. We could have stood and admired for hours – thankfully, this would not be the last we’d see of Skye…
Read next: Discovering the Great Barrier Reef from Townsville in Australia
The Ferry from Mallaig to Knoydart
The Western Isles ferry leaves from a prominent position on Mallaig’s old harbour. It was easy to spot the queue, which was a fun mix of folk laden with supplies for the village, as well as hikers and campers with gigantic rucksacks perched on their backs.
We had travelled comparatively light. However, we made sure to pack enough supplies to spend the day on Knoydart entirely self-supported – particularly important in the current climate.
The ferry was a grand wooden vessel with plenty of outdoor space to ensure sufficient social distancing. Our journey to Inverie passed by in a flash, and the scenery along the way is reason enough to book a ticket. Views across to the Isles of Skye, Rum and Eigg were mixed with the constant, tantalising promise of dolphins – or even whales.
No luck was had on the whale-spotting mission, despite the best efforts of the waves to play tricks with our eyes. The landscape more than made up for it, and eventually, we began to arrive into the bay, where we started to get our first glimpse of Knoydart.
Single houses stood in solitude on the shoreline, and we could glimpse the very occasional sign of a wild camper among the inlets. Before too long, we passed by a flag pole protruding out of the sea, flying the bright yellow colours of the Royal Banner of Scotland. To its right was Inverie, beautifully laid out along the curved rocky beach at the head of the bay. We’d made it.
Exploring Inverie and Beyond
We had roughly four hours to explore this small corner of Knoydart. First, we disembarked the ferry, climbing the steep stairs up to the jetty before immediately sanitising our hands. Then, after a few minutes of watching the organised chaos of goods, guests and post being rounded up and carted off in a flurry of Land Rovers and trailers, we set off on our walk.
For those of us without the luxury of time to fully explore the area, a “Knoydart in a Nutshell” trail has been created. Although relatively short, it takes you to some brilliant places around Inverie – including forests, rivers and beaches.
We meandered vaguely along it, occasionally stopping for detours. It was clear to see that this is a unique, special community. Wild community gardens thrive alongside the river, where we tried – without luck – to spot otters. Not far away, a herd of iconic red deer grazed peacefully against a dramatic mountain backdrop.
Eventually, we perched ourselves on some rocks at a quiet corner of the beach. The weather had, once more, been very kind to us. It was an amazingly still day – almost silent, save the gentle soundtrack of the sea and the occasional bird call.
Time melted away here, and it was easy to see why this was such a popular spot to come and enjoy the wilderness. It was as good as any spa – mindfulness and relaxation at its very best.
Waving Goodbye to Knoydart
Almost in a trance, we kept a silent watch for the boat appearing on the horizon – this would be our cue to begin the slow walk back to the jetty. Eventually, we spotted it, and our visit to Knoydart was over. However, before we boarded, we did manage to squeeze in a quick visit to the ‘tourist’ store, to buy a couple of small, locally produced items. Surplus profits are invested straight back into the community – an important project for the area.
It had been an amazing day and a real taster for an area of wilderness that remains wonderfully untouched. The solitude of Knoydart was a real contrast to some of the more touristy areas of the Highlands. As if to prove this point, we did eventually stop off at Glenfinnan on our way back! The viaduct is an impressive sight, no doubt, but Knoydart was the clear favourite of the day.
Day Four: Over the Sea to Skye
Just like that, our time in Banavie and Fort William was over. After two nights, we were on the move again. But, this time, we’d be reaching our furthest point – the world-famous Isle of Skye. We crossed our fingers that the weather would keep holding out, but could our luck really last that long?
Stay tuned…
Wow, what stunning scenery! It looks like you had a wonderful trip. I haven’t been up that far, but would love to visit Fort William and Mallaig.
Would definitely recommend checking the area out if you ever get the chance – there’s an incredible variety of places to explore up there! Thanks for reading 🙂
Wow, those pictures are just fantastic. The lochs look like they could be anywhere, hard to believe they’re in the UK! And that red deer picture is so good. This is making me very nostalgic for Scotland, I think a staycation will have to be on the list for 2021 🙂 Lisa
Thanks Lisa! It was such a great place to take photos, and we certainly had great weather for it! Scotland would be a great choice for 2021 😀 Thanks for reading!
This looks like such an amazing trip, I’m dying to take a trip around Scotland!
Thanks Hannah! It was a great chance to explore the country – definitely recommend it when you get the chance 🙂