Time for another mountain write-up, and we’re sticking in the UK for a trip to the Cairngorms. Located in North-East Scotland, just south of the city of Inverness, the Cairngorms National Park is the UK’s largest. Accordingly, it is a perfect playground for outdoor pursuits. Skiing, hiking, winter mountaineering, kayaking – you name it; the Cairngorms have got it.
Lucy and I headed there a couple of years ago along with my family. We spent many days exploring the world-famous ‘Speyside’ whiskey distilleries – Glenlivet and Glenfiddich are both found here. However, we had been waiting for a weather window that would let us head to the mountains.
Our targets were the summits of Ben Macdui (1309m) and Cairn Gorm (1245m). Respectively, these are the second and seventh highest mountains in the UK. On a clear day, the views would be spectacular. We thought we would be in luck when we spotted the promising “sunshine” symbol on the local weather forecast. It was time to pack our bags, ready for an early start in the mountains the next day!
Entirely predictably, we would all be thankful for our waterproofs.
Meeting the Cairn Gorm Reindeer
We’d be following a circular route from the Cairn Gorm Ski Centre car park. The trail would first take us across the infamous Cairngorm plateau. This is a vast expanse of featureless land which can be particularly treacherous during winter.
Eventually, we would reach the summit of Ben Macdui. From here, we’d be navigating back across the plateau to a dramatic ridge, which leads up to Cairn Gorm’s peak. The final leg back would be a zig-zagging slog down the hill, walking in parallel with the funicular railway, which shuttles tourists back and forth from the car park to a mountain cafe.
The first surprise of the hike came at the car park. As we drove up, I’d spotted what I thought was a herd of deer grazing on the slopes, which dropped steeply off from the road. However, once we’d parked up and I’d headed over to take a closer look, I quickly realised that these were reindeer!
It turns out that the Cairngorms have been home to the UK’s only free-roaming herd of reindeer since 1952, when they were introduced from Sweden by Mikel Utsi. Since then, the herd has thrived in the sub-arctic microenvironment of the Cairngorm mountain range, growing to 150 strong today.
To bump into them within seconds of stepping foot out of the car was a real stroke of luck, and we strolled right through the herd as we started following the trial. Well accustomed to humans, they watched us nonchalantly as we wandered by before turning their attentions to the somewhat more exciting prospect of eating the long grass.
Ascending up to the Cairngorm Plateau
The first section of our hike saw us meandering up the mountain’s slopes, following a winding path and enjoying the views as we climbed steadily higher. The weather, although not quite the sunny skies we’d been promised, was holding steady. The clouds provided an extra sense of drama with each break we took.
Eventually, we reached a section of path with immense views over to Coire an Lochain – a cauldron of cliffs that dramatically tower over the loch of the same name. This loch is the highest in Scotland, and the area provides some great routes to challenge mountaineers in winter conditions.
We barely had any time to enjoy these views, as it wasn’t long before a thick cloud came rolling down from the peaks above. This, it turns out, would set the tone for much of the rest of the walk…
Searching for the summit of Ben Macdui
With the cloud having enveloped any remaining views of the landscape beneath us, we decided to press on at a decent pace. We’d finally reached the Cairngorm Plateau – a vast expanse of mountainous wilderness, where our ability to read a map indeed came in handy!
The cloud became thicker with every meter climbed, and the temperature dropped. It was the perfect example of why you need to be well prepared to venture into a landscape like this. The weather changed in the blink of an eye, and it would have been a miserable (and downright dangerous) experience if we’d been stuck up there without proper coats, gloves and food.
Eventually, the plateau became an unpathed, seemingly endless field of scree and boulders. The mist had turned to fog, and we could barely see ten meters ahead. Nevertheless, we had a pretty good idea of which direction we needed to head, and followed in single file. Every so often, a rocky cairn would appear out of the moody grey, guiding our way as we trudged towards the summit.
The lack of visibility and eerie silence which comes with being wrapped up in thick cloud lent a unique atmosphere to the walk. By the time the summit trig point of Ben Macdui emerged out of the gloom, a driving wind had picked up. This was certainly no longer a casual summer hike up a hill – these were proper mountain conditions, and all the more enjoyable for it!
We took a quick break whilst snapping our summit photos. These definitely captured the conditions and made up (in their own way) for the lack of view from the top. A couple of us optimistically tried to turn our short break into a lunch stop, but were beaten quickly back by the freezing winds. It isn’t easy to grip your sandwich when you can’t feel your fingers…
Crossing the ridge to Cairn Gorm
After Ben Macdui, our next stop was Cairn Gorm itself, and we’d need to head back across the plateau to find our way. We used the shores of Lochan Buidhe, a small lake but crucial for navigation on the plateau, to signal that we should turn right.
From here, it wasn’t long before the mists eventually relented, and we were able to see the sweeping cliffs of Stob Coire an t-Sneachda. We would follow a path close to the edge – taking care not to be blown off by any gusts – before reaching the final significant slope of the trek.
Another zig-zag ascent took us, at long last, to the summit of Cairn Gorm. It was hugely busier than Ben Macdui, where we didn’t see any other walkers except ourselves. Despite the weather, the funicular railway continued to ferry tourists to the cafe, from where a short but steep ascent would lead you to the summit.
Here, the variety in what people decide to be suitable mountain outfits was apparent. There we were, windswept and wet in our full waterproofs, gloves and hats, walking past people in flip flops, skinny jeans and hoodies. Although improved from the driving winds of Ben Macdui, the weather was still pretty atrocious. No prizes for guessing that the denim-clad mountaineers looked pretty miserable!
Read next: Hiking around Ribblehead in the Yorkshire Dales on a snowy morning
Descending off the mountain
Getting off the mountain is always my least favourite part of the hike. Before reaching the Ptarmigan cafe, we ambled via a roped walkway, to which people clung as if about to be blown off the mountain. The weather down here, barely 100m in elevation from the summit of Cairn Gorm, had already noticeably improved. It was easy to see why people thought they could get away with walking further up the mountain dressed like they were heading for a swift pint down the pub.
Resisting the temptation to cheat the rest of the descent and head down on the funicular railway, we began a monotonous zig-zag down to the car park. Frustratingly, the views had now reappeared out of the clouds, and we could see exactly where we’d parked and how far we had to go. The funicular had never looked more tempting – perhaps this was all part of a cynical ploy by the park authorities to lure tired hikers into splashing out for the railway. Perhaps.
Eventually, through gritted teeth, we defeated temptation and made it back to the car. We’re not sure our knees were thanking us, but our bank balances and conscience certainly were – Ben Macdui and Cairn Gorm, both in the bag!
Top tips for climbing Ben Macdui and Cairn Gorm:
Ben Macdui and Cairn Gorm are fantastic mountains to climb. However, the frequently crazy weather means there are some things to keep in mind before you head there yourself:
- 1: Pack your kit and prepare for all 4 seasons in a day. This is a cliche in Scotland, but nowhere is it more appropriate or important than in the Cairngorm mountains. Mountain Rescue are very busy here, and making sure you’ve come with the right equipment can help avoid unnecessary call outs.
- 2: Arrive early. There are a couple of reasons why you want to be parking up early in the morning. Firstly, the car park can get full! Secondly, you don’t want to be caught up on the plateau in the dark.
- 3: Know how to read a map and compass. In a landscape which can be as featureless and foggy as the Cairngorms, being able to navigate can be crucial to your safety. It’s great to have a phone with GPS, but you shouldn’t rely on it.
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