Autumn is a time of transformation, and there are few better places in North Yorkshire to embrace the changing seasons than the Bolton Abbey estate. At the height of summer, thousands of visitors enjoy the woodland trails and riverside walks that crisscross the landscape. As these holiday crowds fade, the estate’s winding paths take on a magical quality as leaves turn a fiery red and the waters of the Wharfe swell with heavy seasonal rain.
On a crisp Tuesday morning in November, we set off for Bolton Abbey armed with sturdy walking boots and warm jackets. The Yorkshire Dales can feel wonderfully desolate at this time of year, and the approach to the estate offers a delightful sample of everything the national park has to offer. Drystone walls stretch across rolling fields draped in dew, with bracken-covered hills looming large above the morning mist. Postcard-perfect cottages and barns provide a classic welcome to the tiny hamlet of Bolton Abbey as you approach the car park.
By the time we arrived, a handful of fellow visitors were spilling out of large vehicles—there were Range Rovers aplenty—with all manner of excited dogs in tow. It was a chilly morning—everyone’s breath curled conspicuously into the cool air. We threw open our car boot, slipped on our walking gear, and set off.
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Heading towards the famous Bolton Abbey Stepping Stones
The first treat of the day was the view that awaited us as we stepped through the stone archway that separates the tarmac road from the grounds surrounding the ruins of Bolton Priory.
Beneath us lay the River Wharfe, bending gracefully through the landscape. To our left, the dramatic remains of the priory stood superimposed against the rocky outcrops on the hills beyond. A few dedicated ramblers were marching at speed towards the stepping stones, whilst a couple of dog walkers had stopped just ahead of us to sip hot drinks from steaming thermoses.
As we began to wander along the trail towards the river, we had no particular itinerary in mind. It had been years since I had visited Bolton Abbey, which always proved to be a favourite spot as a child. I remembered some of the famous sights you can reach by foot – the Valley of Desolation, the infamous Strid, the ruins of Barden Tower. I also remembered the Cavendish Pavilion, the popular tea rooms where dozens of walkers stop to refuel with a slice of cake and a cup of tea. Whatever route we did, we knew we would stop there for a bit to eat.
Our first port of call, however, would be the iconic stepping stones.
Crossing the stepping stones
Below a steep bank of tall trees lay one of Bolton Abbey’s most popular features: the 62 stepping stones that stretch across the River Wharfe. They look almost whimsical, like something straight out of a postcard, designed to tempt the brave into a precarious, tip-toeing dance across the water.
At the height of summer, you’ll see a line of families patiently waiting to cross, children teetering on the stones, and parents offering encouraging arms. On this chilly November morning, however, there were only a few dog walkers in sight, and nobody was venturing out onto the stones.
While the stepping stones are a popular tourist attraction today, they once served a more utilitarian purpose. Directly behind us, the ruined remains of Bolton Priory loomed above a small graveyard. Centuries ago, the stepping stones were laid to help the priory’s lay workers cross the river without having to wade through the chilly, churning water. It wasn’t until 1899 that a bridge was finally built over the Wharfe.
Whilst everyone seemed to have opted for the bridge crossing during our visit, we couldn’t resist trying out the stepping stones. The river was flowing freely, but it looked safe enough from our vantage point on the shore.
“Do you think you’ll make it across without slipping?” Lucy grinned, her foot hovering over the first stone. “Only one way to find out,” I laughed, eyeing up the route.
Lucy took the first step, cautiously testing the nearest stone before moving forward. I followed shortly behind, feeling the rock solid beneath my boot, if a little slick from the damp air. One by one, we crossed the river, each of us instinctively lifting our arms for balance.
Halfway across, the river looked different as I looked down. It gurgled and whirled around each stone, creating patterns that were almost vertigo-inducing. Some of the steps had surprisingly large gaps between them, making us wonder aloud how a small child could cross safely – a feat thousands of them manage with aplomb each year.
We each became more confident as we approached the opposite shore. Before long, we had made it safely across – earning a generous round of applause from a couple of dog walkers who had been watching from the comfort of the footpath. The stones were great fun – a gentle thrill that is well worth the effort if conditions permit.
Exploring the Valley of Desolation and admiring the infamous Strid
From the stepping stones, we proceeded at pace along an undulating path that rose and fell as it tracked along the fast-flowing river. The steep topography made for a surprisingly energetic stroll, and by the time we had crossed over a shallow ford and emerged in front of the tea rooms, we found ourselves slightly out of breath.
Resisting the urge to detour straight inside for a snack, we opted to press on towards the wonderfully named Valley of Desolation. The name conjures images of an oppressive, barren wasteland, but the reality is quite the opposite.
Expertly managed by the custodians of the Bolton Abbey estate, the valley is an enchanting haven of woodland where waterfalls and wildlife hide amongst dense foliage. Its evocative name derives from a ferocious storm that ravaged the area many, many generations ago. Torrential rain caused flash floods that tore down from Barden Fell, combining with brutal winds to uproot many of the ancient trees that had grown in the valley for centuries.
Over the years to come, the valley recovered – blossoming into the magical woodland that it is today. As we made our way along the trail, a damp chill hung in the air, and a gentle breeze added a cinematic soundtrack as it hissed through the trees. Autumn leaves scattered across the forest floor and piled up against chunky roots, forming a squishy mosaic of orange, red and bronze.
Every so often, the breeze would pick up, rattling the branches overhead and sending a fresh cascade of leaves floating through the air. Their meandering descent made for a sublime backdrop.
Approaching The Strid
We had chosen to walk on the elevated side of the river. Despite being high above, we could still hear the steady murmur of the Wharfe as it pushed its way along the valley floor. As the path led us higher still, the sounds of the Wharfe grew louder, the gentle murmur now a steady, insistent roar. We were approaching the Strid – a legendary stretch of the river that has captivated (and terrified) visitors for centuries.
Eventually, we saw it – a gorge of steep, moss-covered rocks that framed the river’s narrow channel. It is here that the Wharfe – which was wide and relatively gentle just upstream – transforms into a compressed, churning torrent.
Many people – including famous YouTubers – call the Strid one of the most dangerous stretches of river anywhere in the world. When viewed from above, it’s easy to see why. The murky water is forced through a deep, narrow channel between the rocks – a channel that plunges far, far below what the naked eye can see.
There is a wealth of local legend surrounding the Strid, including the sobering claim that nobody who has fallen in has ever survived. Whether this is true or not, one thing is certain: even a slight misstep can easily lead to tragic outcomes.
We were far above the waters, well away from any danger. Despite the ominous tales, the Strid is captivating – particularly during the autumn months. A perfectly positioned bench stands high above the river among the trees. We sat here for a few minutes, watching leaves fall gently to the ground. It was a wonderful contrast to the drama of the dark waters below.
Enjoying Coffee and Cake at the Cavendish Pavilion
As we sat and enjoyed the view over the Strid, we felt a few drops of rain. It was time to head for a warm-up drink. Thankfully, the Cavendish Pavilion – owned and run by the Bolton Abbey estate – was just a short walk back through the woods.
A stone’s throw from the banks of the Wharfe, this impressive low-rise building is everything you’d hope for in a Yorkshire tearoom – an iconic location, home-baked cakes and plenty of tea or coffee to enjoy.
Pushing open the door, we found the Pavilion half-full. A few groups of dog walkers sat on round tables, tucking into snacks and sipping hot drinks. We had both built up an appetite, so we decided to indulge in the food menu – soup and a sausage roll for Matt and a jacket potato with tuna for Lucy. Hot drinks were needed, so we washed our food down with a large cappuccino and a steaming cup of Yorkshire tea. We both agreed there’s nothing quite like the comfort of warming up with a hot drink after a cold autumnal walk.
Every so often, the door would fly open, and a new couple or group would wander in, unzipping cosy jackets and throwing off thick hats. We had made the tactical mistake of sitting on a table next to the door, resulting in a race against time to wolf down our meals before they got too cold.
By the time we had finished eating, the lunchtime rush had come to an end, and the tearooms were starting to empty out. We sat for a few more minutes before dropping off our trays and heading back into the chilly afternoon.
Wandering the ruins of Bolton Priory
No visit to the Bolton Abbey estate is complete without a stroll around the ancient priory, whose ruins dominate the landscape near the village. Originally founded in the twelfth century by Augustinian monks, Bolton Priory has witnessed centuries of change – from the Dissolution of the Monasteries to the latest waves of tourism.
We strolled into the Priory grounds through a heavy wooden gate. Weathered gravestones flanked the paths, with golden leaves strewn across the damp grass. We walked towards the soaring arches, their stonework marked by centuries of wind and rain. Where once there would have been stained glass windows, the arches now framed the grey, distant Yorkshire moors.
One of the most impressive features of Bolton Priory is the active church attached to the ruins. The Priory Church of St Mary & St Cuthbert holds regular services and is normally open for visitors during the day. It’s well worth a visit, with free entrance for all – although you can leave a donation in cash or by using a contactless card. The church also has a small gift shop stocked with easy-to-carry souvenirs, complete with an honesty box for payment.
Browsing Antique Books
A short stroll up the hill from the Priory ruins, back into the tiny hamlet of Bolton Abbey, is a small establishment selling a vast range of antique books. Grove Rare Books sits on the ground floor of a quaint old cottage near the village car park and is everything you want from an antique bookshop.
We both needed to choose Christmas presents for our families, so we wandered inside the shop at the end of our walk. Spread across a few different rooms with low, wooden ceilings, we discovered shelves crammed full of intriguing tomes – with particular highlights including sections on trains and mountaineering, as well as Yorkshire-specific reads.
We browsed at a leisurely pace before picking up a handful of affordably priced travelogues to bring home. After a friendly chat with the owner, we bid farewell to the bookshop and returned to the car park, where we scraped the mud off our walking boots before setting off home.
A final summary of our walking route
Start: Bolton Priory and the Stepping Stones
Next: Exploring the Valley of Desolation
A highlight: Watching over the waters of the Strid
Our break: The Cavendish Pavilion for tea and lunch
The final stops: Exploring the Priory Church and the bookshop
Bolton Abbey: How To Do It
Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a seasoned Yorkshire native, there’s always something different to see at Bolton Abbey. With countless ways to structure your day, here are our top tips and tricks to help you make the most of your visit to Bolton Abbey.
Getting to Bolton Abbey
Despite its sense of wilderness, Bolton Abbey is surprisingly easy to get to, particularly if you’re travelling from the nearest towns. Here’s how to do it, including if you don’t have access to a car.
The easiest way: driving to Bolton Abbey
The easiest way to get to Bolton Abbey is by car. The estate is located on the southern edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, which means public transport options are limited – read on for your options.
For those driving, follow the brown tourist signs from the A59 near Skipton or the A65 from Ilkley and Addingham. Skipton is the nearest big town – just 7 miles, or a 15-minute drive – from Bolton Abbey.
The route from Skipton is straightforward. Follow the A59 towards Harrogate before turning off on the B6160 towards Bolton Abbey. Once you turn off, you will pass the Devonshire Arms Hotel on your right before reaching the village of Bolton Abbey.
Parking at Bolton Abbey
There are four official car parks at Bolton Abbey:
- The Bolton Abbey village car park. This is best for visiting Bolton Priory, the bookshop and the stepping stones.
- The Riverside Car Park. This is best for visiting the Cavendish Pavilion tea rooms and the open fields near the River Wharfe.
- Strid Wood Car Park. This is best for visiting the infamous Strid and the nature trails through the ancient woodland.
- Barden Bridge Car Park. This is best for visiting the northern tip of the Bolton Abbey estate and continuing your walk along a peaceful stretch of the River Wharfe.
Cost: When we last visited in late 2024, a parking ticket for one car at Bolton Abbey cost £15. This may seem steep, but we were given a small leaflet that outlined where the parking fees are spent. An estate of this size requires significant maintenance, and we felt it was worth the money to support the stewardship of the land.
Changing car parks: Once you buy your parking ticket, you can use any of the four official car parks on the day. Simply show your ticket to the parking attendant when entering the car park.
Free parking: There are some limited options for free parking in laybys on the edges of the Bolton Abbey estate. However, we think it’s worth paying the parking fee for the convenience of the parking locations and to support the maintenance of the trails.
Getting to Bolton Abbey by public transport
Whilst driving is the easiest way to get to Bolton Abbey, it’s still possible to visit the estate without a car via a combination of trains and buses. There’s even the option of catching a steam train through the gentle Yorkshire landscape. Here’s how to do it.
Taking the train and bus to Bolton Abbey
Although Bolton Abbey itself does not have a train station, there are nearby rail connections in Skipton and Ilkley for those who prefer to travel by public transport.
The most convenient station is Skipton, which is just 7 miles from Bolton Abbey. Both Skipton and Ilkley enjoy regular, direct connections from nearby Leeds.
Once you reach Skipton, there are a handful of direct bus routes. From Skipton bus station – a five-minute walk from the train station – you can catch the following buses to Bolton Abbey:
- The DalesBus 59. This service runs on Saturdays between Harrogate and Skipton, with a stop at Bolton Bridge. From here, it is a half-mile walk to Bolton Abbey.
- The Cravenlink 873. This service runs on Sundays and Bank Holidays between Ilkley and Skipton, with stops at Bolton Abbey and Barden.
Unfortunately, these services only run at weekends. If you are travelling between Monday and Friday, you will need to catch a taxi from Skipton or Ilkley to Bolton Abbey. Please note that many of the traditional taxi services will ask you to pay with cash. However, both Skipton and Ilkley have Uber, which often proves the easiest way to catch a ride from the train stations.
Catching the steam train to Bolton Abbey
For those who prefer a more traditional railway experience, the popular Embsay & Bolton Abbey Steam Railway is a perfect option. The journey takes 20 minutes in each direction and is often a highlight of the Bolton Abbey experience for families and holidaymakers.
Trains depart from Embsay Station, which is a 2.2 mile walk or drive from Skipton train station. You will arrive at Bolton Abbey station – from here, you will need to walk for 1.5 miles to reach the ruins of Bolton Priory. For a summary of the walk from Bolton Abbey train station to Bolton Priory, the railway’s website has a handy leaflet.
The best time to visit Bolton Abbey
Bolton Abbey is beautiful at any time of year. However, we do think the estate shines particularly brightly during autumn, which typically stretches from late September to mid-November. The best time for ‘leaf-peeping’ tends to vary each year depending on the weather conditions. Our visit – in the first week of November – was probably a couple of weeks after the ‘peak’ of the Autumn colours. Nonetheless, the leaves still proved spectacular, especially when they fell in their droves in the breeze.
Unsurprisingly, Bolton Abbey is busiest during the summer months – particularly on a sunny day during the school holidays. Be prepared for packed car parks and crowds of families on the popular stretches near the priory and the Cavendish Pavilion. However, you’ll still find pockets of solitude on the estate’s quieter corners.
The Bolton Abbey estate also has a packed events calendar, and it’s worth considering timing your visit if anything catches your eye. When we visited in November, there was an enormous fireworks display planned for that evening. During our next visit, in late December, the trails near the Cavendish Pavilion had been transformed into a festive treat with a ’12 Days of Christmas’ theme. For more information about events throughout the year, visit Bolton Abbey’s ‘What’s on” page.
No matter when you decide to visit Bolton Abbey, we would always recommend arriving early in the day – especially on weekends – to beat any late-morning rush. An early start will also give you the best chance of experiencing a misty morning, when the ruins are at their haunting best.
What to wear and bring on a walk around Bolton Abbey
Your choice of clothing will vary depending on the season and the forecast, but be warned – the weather at Bolton Abbey can be unpredictable. Layering is generally key – start with a warm base and add or remove as the day unfolds. A waterproof is a sensible idea on all but the sunniest of summer days.
If you are planning to venture along the Strid or into the more rugged corners of the Bolton Abbey estate, comfortable hiking shoes are a must. Most of the trails are well maintained, so you won’t need to go too over-the-top, but you will want something more substantial on your feet than flimsy trainers or flip-flops.
Finally, we would advise taking a small backpack for snacks, water and extra layers – and if you can squeeze a camera in there, even better.
Read next: How to get from Budapest to Timișoara by train.
Our five top spots to explore at Bolton Abbey
- The famous stepping stones: A classic experience for all ages, but not one to risk when the Wharfe is swollen. You can always opt for the adjacent footbridge if you are concerned about keeping your balance.
- The Valley of Desolation: This spectacular woodland is a tranquil escape from the picnicking crowds next to the river.
- The Strid: One of the world’s most infamous stretches of river, the Strid’s raging waters are best watched from a safe distance.
- The ruins of Bolton Priory: Centuries of monastic history stand alongside a modern, welcoming church.
- The Cavendish Pavilion: The popular tea rooms are an ideal place to stop and refuel during your adventure at Bolton Abbey.
Read next: 10 of the best things to do in Saltaire
Extending your stay at Bolton Abbey
If time permits, you may want to consider booking a night or two at a local hotel or guesthouse.
- The Devonshire Arms: Occupying a prime position on the edge of the Bolton Abbey Estate, the Devonshire Arms is a local institution. It offers everything you could possibly want from a classic country hotel – from an opulent spa to a whole host of outdoor activities, including clay pigeon shooting and fly-fishing. Perfect for adding a touch of luxury to your Yorkshire trip. Rooms from £221 a night.
- Highfield Guest House: In the heart of nearby Skipton, Highfield House is an ideal choice for those looking to take a day trip to Bolton Abbey before returning to the bustle of a busy market town. Highfield offers four-star accommodation and is within easy walking distance of everything Skipton has to offer. Rooms from £95 a night.
- The Black Hat: Just a five-minute walk from Ilkley train station, the Black Hat is a popular pub that offers a range of comfortable rooms to suit couples or families alike. The star of the show is the breakfast, which is included with every booking – the perfect way to set yourself up for a day exploring Bolton Abbey. Rooms from £85 a night.
Autumn at Bolton Abbey: Our Final Thoughts
There’s an undeniable beauty to Bolton Abbey in autumn. Even if you miss the peak of the autumn colours or arrive on a damp day, you can’t help but be charmed by everything the estate has to offer – from the ancient arches of the priory to the roaring currents of the Strid.
We loved watching the leaves fall around us as we wandered along the quiet, carried by the cool breeze. Our tea stop at the Cavendish Pavilion was another highlight, offering the perfect opportunity to warm up after our woodland walks. Finally, we would always recommend stepping into the Priory Church after exploring the ruins – it’s a beautiful space to spend a few quiet minutes before waving a temporary goodbye to Bolton Abbey. It won’t be long before we’re back.