Two Tickets To Scotland: Loch Lomond and Beyond

2020 has firmly established itself as the year of the “Staycation”. Millions have chosen to discover what’s on their doorstep rather than head overseas. We were no exception.

Our usual style of trip involves plenty of public transport, border crossings, and new cities – exploring as much as we can in our limited time off work. But, unfortunately, the Covid-19 pandemic effectively scuppered any plans we might have had for overseas travel.

All hope was not lost, however. We began to plan a journey we’d always wanted to make but for which we had never found time. Finally, we were ready for a Scotland road trip!

Day One: Are We Nearly There Yet?

It had been over five years since we’d last headed to Scotland together on these roads. However, it felt like we were on familiar territory as we sped up the M6 towards the border. Our first stop would be the infamous village of Gretna Green, a place synonymous with runaway weddings.

The next hurdle – according to chief driver Lucy – was the sprawling network of motorways and junctions that cut through Glasgow.

Eventually, and no doubt to Lucy’s great relief, we made it to the Stoneymollan roundabout. Here, a series of sculptures marked the beginning of the route up the western shores of the vast Loch Lomond. We followed the A82 as it snaked northwards, catching fleeting glimpses of the glistening water through the trees.

After a while, we made it to Tarbet. The iconic peak of Ben Lomond towers above the rooftops of the village from Loch Lomond’s eastern shore. Here, we made a left turn to head towards Arrochar, where we’d booked our first accommodation of the trip.

Arriving in Arrochar

Arrochar and Tarbet form two of the “Three Villages” along with Succoth. With just over 1,000 residents shared between them, this small community is a perfect base for exploring the surrounding area. Highlights range from the spectacular mountains of the Arrochar Alps to the mysterious waters of Lochs Lomond and Long. For Matt, there was a strong personal connection, too. Some old family homes still stand in Tarbet and multiple relatives are buried in Arrochar’s graveyard.

Unsurprisingly, we felt immediately at home as we unpacked our bags. The forecast rain had just about held off, and we’d struck lucky with an immense view of the craggy summit of “The Cobbler” from the living room of our AirBnB. It is perhaps the most recognisable of the peaks around Loch Lomond, and would be our target for the next day’s hike.

We still had enough time for a quick familiarisation walk around the village before dusk arrived. The contrast to our usual city centre living couldn’t have been more stark. The still silence of the early evening was punctured only by the occasional shriek of a gull or the deep comforting rumble of the impossibly heavy logging trucks as they bounced down from the Argyll forest.

It is a perfect place to relax. Or, if you’re us, to leave at 7am the next day to climb a mountain.

Day Two: Conquering the Cobbler…and Knackering our Knees

We’d agreed that we’d look to climb “The Cobbler” on the best weather day during our stay in Arrochar. But, as luck would have it, the forecast showed that it was to be Monday – our first full day. So, Matt’s (in retrospect, highly ambitious) plan to have an ‘alpine start’ and make it to the summit for sunrise was immediately cast aside in favour of an indulgent lie-in until 6:30am.

At 884 meters, The Cobbler stands just 30 meters short of being classed as a “Munro” – the exclusive group of Scottish mountains standing at 3,000 feet or over. There are 282 Munros dotted across the country, and “Munro bagging” is a popular challenge among serious hillwalkers. Although conquering The Cobbler wouldn’t gain us any brownie points, we could already boast some classic Munros as a pair, and Matt had racked up a good number more on previous Scotland trips.

Happy that our Munro-conscience was clear, we were looking forward to heading up to the rocky summit, whose jagged features are said to resemble a cobbler at work. So, with rucksacks loaded up with several days worth of cheese and pickle sandwiches (which were to become a staple of the trip), we set off from our apartment and headed to the beginning of the trail.

Ascending the trails towards The Cobbler

The hike is well worthy of its own write-up, which will follow in due course. However, there are plenty of highlights which we can cover now. The first real treat of the journey came after a steep period of zig-zagging up through the thick forest. Despite the stubborn waves of mist, the views from here were spectacular. We enjoyed a clear line of sight across to Ben Lomond and beyond.

However, the views did not quite hold up as well looking towards the summit. We were heading towards a swirling cauldron of cloud, which was smothering the top despite tantalising glimpses of blue sky. Nevertheless, we pressed on, enjoying the trail as it followed a gentle river towards the start of a steep scramble. This was the final hurdle to overcome before the summit.

This section was terrific fun, with the mists becoming ever thicker with each step we took. By the time we got to the final stretch, any hopes of blue skies had disappeared into clouds. It made for a beautiful atmosphere nonetheless, as the Cobbler’s distinctive rock faces loomed over us.

Finally, we reached the summit ridge, heading to the right-hand peak first. There was another short scramble before we emerged out onto a small plateau. Ahead of us, hidden among the mist, was a sheer drop down the cliff face, a favourite among climbers.

Retracing our steps and heading across the ridge took us to the true summit, an abrupt “thumb” of rock protruding into the sky. The only way up here was to “thread the needle”, squeezing through a hole in the rocks to reach a small ledge before scrambling up the other side to stand on the tiny ledge at the top. This feat makes for an epic photo. Nonetheless, given the appalling visibility and strong winds, we both decided not to risk it.

Dramatic Descents and Dodgy Knees

We took another route down, allowing us to complete a short loop around the summit. Whilst descending, the clouds finally lifted. It allowed for fantastic views of the surrounding peaks of the Arrochar Alps and providing a real sense of scale. The Arrochar Alps are an immense landscape, and the hiking opportunities here are limitless.

Limitless is not, however, how we’d describe our knees! The further we descended, the more we both struggled – this must be how getting old feels?! We’ve both been lucky enough to get plenty of long-distance hikes under our belt without any trouble. However, perhaps this marked a turning point. As we stumbled back through the forest, we vowed that we’d endeavour to take better care of our knees.

Knee-pain aside, we were both in agreement that this was a fantastic hike. The combination of forests, rivers, scrambling, and unpredictable weather made for a hugely varied day. The views are well worthy of the effort to reach the top!

Day Three: Dodging The Rain and Discovering Abandoned Places

The forecast for day three, our second full day in the area, was pretty poor. The forecast predicted rain for much of the day, but we weren’t too fussed. It gave us an excellent excuse to take things easy on our knees! A day of low-intensity exploring was on the cards – although we quickly racked up the step-count regardless….

Our morning plans were pretty simple. We set off to follow the “heritage trail” towards Tarbet, a small village on the shores of Loch Lomond. Arrochar and Tarbet are inextricably linked by both geography and history. They lie either side of the isthmus between Loch Long and Loch Lomond, across which Viking raiders dragged their boats during the 13th century to raid the inland villages along Loch Lomond’s shores.

We both agreed that this would have been no mean feat whilst wandering through the woodland above Arrochar, tracking parallel to the Viking route. The heavens opened not long after, and we were thankful for our waterproofs as we trudged along the trail. I wonder how the Vikings would have coped with a similar downpour. I like to think they would flip their boats and place them down as a protective shell like some sort of Norse glamping pod.

Eventually, we crossed under the train tracks of Arrochar & Tarbet station. The station is supremely well connected, with regular trains to Glasgow and even a direct sleeper service to London! Before long, we’d arrived in Tarbet, and we found a row of old cottages which were home to generations of Matt’s family in years gone by. These were a stone’s throw from the shores of Loch Lomond and Tarbet pier, with regular services to the eastern banks of the loch.

The rains began to abate, and a heavy stillness settled over the loch. Small patches of cloud drifted through the forested slopes at the foot of Ben Lomond. A grey fog enveloped the mountain’s summit.

After enjoying our packed lunch – cheese and pickle sandwiches, of course – on the banks of the loch, we set off once more in the direction of Arrochar. We passed Tarbet village shop on our way. The store was a true indicator of the minute size of the place, housed inside a small shipping container.

Time for Torpedoes

After a quick pit-stop back at our flat, we set off again to explore the low-level trails behind Succoth, at the head of Loch Long. It didn’t take long before we were distracted by the overwhelming number of bramble bushes along the way. Our trek quickly turned into a foraging mission as we loaded up on plump blackberries to use on our morning porridge. We had gone all-in on the Scottish breakfasts.

Once we’d filled our sandwich bags to the brim with berries, we headed back towards the loch. From here, we made our way towards one of the more unusual sites we’d spotted during our planning sessions. Twenty brisk minutes later, we turned off the pavement and down an overgrown track, heading straight down to the water’s edge.

We were heading towards the abandoned remains of a military torpedo range, which was active between 1912 and 1986. The military used the range to test torpedoes, which would be fired (without warheads) towards floating targets further down the loch. Since its decommissioning, the range has slowly rotted away. The decline was exacerbated by fire in the mid-2000s and occasional demolition work.

Despite everything nature and humans have thrown at it, a large chunk of the old structures remain standing. These include the pier – a favourite among local fishermen – and the vast warehouse where torpedoes would be stored and mobilised. It is still a unique place to explore, and the day’s gloomy weather made for a great atmosphere. At one point, the clouds broke to reveal the most sublime lighting, with gentle rays of sunlight drenching part of the shore with an otherworldly glow.

This incredible lighting set the tone as we walked back around the loch to our flat. Eventually, it led to a phenomenal sunset – a perfect way to end the day.

Day Four: Watching for Wallabies

The next day began with a perfect breakfast – gigantic cups of tea and steaming bowls of porridge topped with our recently-foraged blackberries. This meal set us up perfectly for the day ahead – it was time to head over to Loch Lomond once more, where we’d hired a two-person kayak to take onto the water.

Lucy will be writing a more detailed account of the kayak trip soon, but needless to say, it was a cracker. We’d read tales of a colony of wild wallabies living on one of the islands and were determined to head there and see if we could spot these most unusual residents.

We collected our kayak from the picturesque village of Luss, and after a quick briefing from the staff at the excellent Loch Lomond Leisure we were on our way. Choppy waters greeted us for the first 30 minutes, but eventually we made it into the calm inlets of Loch Lomond’s islands.

Our main destination was the island of Inchconnachan, owned for many generations by the Colquhoun family. The island is home to an abandoned family holiday house, falling slowly into disrepair among the thick woodland and – infamously – the wallabies. These unlikely creatures were introduced to the island in the 1940s by Lady Arran Colquhoun, who once held the record for the fastest woman on water. However, sightings of the wallabies are increasingly rare as the population declines – kayak staff told us that only one person had spotted them this year.

Still, we’ve got to give it a go!

Reaching Wallaby Island

It didn’t take long to notice the old boathouse, which was our cue to head for the island’s shores and start exploring on foot. After a few minutes of wandering, we found the old house – unerringly quiet, with some furniture and wall paintings still visible inside. The outhouses, too, were open to the elements. The rusting blades of an industrial-sized sawmill were perhaps the most alarming find, and could easily provide enough inspiration for an island-based horror film!

We decided to head away from the house, following Lucy’s intuition to see if we could spot the elusive wallabies. Remarkably, after barely ten minutes, Lucy stopped dead in her tracks and silently beckoned me towards her. There, framed perfectly against the tall bracken, was a wallaby! It was staring directly at us, frozen in time, and it remained there for a good thirty seconds or so before bouncing off into the thick undergrowth. Incredible.

We could scarcely believe our luck, and were still wondering how we’d managed to spot one when – as if by magic – another three appeared in the distance. This time, we crouched and watched them for a few minutes before deciding to leave them in peace. It was a surreal encounter, and we set back off onto the waters feeling very lucky indeed.

We could happily have spent the whole day exploring the various islands. The loch was remarkably traffic-free, perhaps thanks to a combination of weather and the lateness of the season. I suspect that a hot day at the height of summer would be a very different experience.

Our four hours exploring Loch Lomond by kayak felt like they’d gone by in a flash, and before we knew it, we were dragging ourselves back up the beach to enjoy our late lunch! We squelched around the quaint streets of Luss in a vain attempt to dry ourselves off before retreating to the creature comforts of a hot shower back at the flat.

A quick evening stroll signalled the end of our last full day in Arrochar – an unforgettable one.

Day Five: Waving Goodbye to Loch Lomond

Just like that, we were in a final race against the clock to pack the car up before our check-out time. For two people who will quite happily spend multiple weeks collecting passport stamps with just hand-luggage-sized backpacks, we had managed to bring a ridiculous amount of stuff with us. Of course, half of it would never see the light of day – I knew on the first morning that just because I’d packed yoga mats doesn’t mean I’d feel the urge for a sunrise vinyasa flow. However, there’s something about a self-catering holiday that compels you to bring half your worldly possessions along for the ride.

Finally, we were ready to set off and wave goodbye to this special part of the world. The Cobbler was out in full view to see us off, and we waved at the wallabies from a distance as we turned left at Tarbet and began to snake further up the western shores of Loch Lomond.

Our next stop would be just outside Fort William, in the shadows of Ben Nevis – the UK’s tallest mountain. The route up the A82 from Loch Lomond to Fort William would take us through some of the UK’s most incredible scenery, and we’re looking forward to sharing this next part of the Scotland road trip soon!

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