After kicking off our Scotland road trip exploring the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, it was time to move on to our next base. We were heading to the village of Banavie, a stone’s throw from the town of Fort William, famously nestled under the immense bulk of Ben Nevis – the UK’s tallest mountain. We’d be following the famous A82 route – a drive which is an event in itself.
Although the journey from Loch Lomond to Banavie should take less than 1 hour and 45 minutes, we knew we’d be out much longer. The incredible A82 passes through some of the most spectacular scenery in Scotland and is not one you should rush. Some sections of the route easily rank among the most photographed stretches of tarmac in the world. This is Scotland peeled straight from a postcard, and we couldn’t wait to get started.
Leaving Loch Lomond on the A82
The journey from Loch Lomond to Fort William begins with a desperately narrow section of winding road just past the tiny village of Tarbet. This sees you squeezed tightly between the waters of the loch on your right and – invariably – cold hard rock faces on your left.
Barely five minutes into the journey, our palms were sweating as a never-ending procession of heavy logging trucks squeezed past. The views of the loch were spectacular – but both Lucy and I found ourselves preoccupied with navigating the route ahead.
Eventually, the road widened, and we waved goodbye to Loch Lomond. It wasn’t long before we arrived at our first stop of the day – the wonderfully alliterative “Falls of Falloch“. The falls are a 10m high cascade, accessible via a short path. The path ends at a viewpoint, including a caged walkway out over the water.
The Falls are a lovely spot, but we urge caution regarding the car park. It’s nowhere near set up to cope with the number of visitors, and you can easily find yourself blocked in by other vehicles. Campervans and caravans would be at particular risk and would probably need a 30-point turn to escape!
Leaving the Falls behind, we snaked further up the road and began to gain some altitude before too long. Eventually, regular viewpoints started to appear on the side of the road. This was where we first began to get the ‘road trip’ vibes, with drivers stopping in their droves to admire the scenery and snap a few photos. The stop-start nature of the route would continue pretty much all the way to Fort William – and with good reason!
Admiring the beauty of Rannoch Moor
Shortly after passing through Bridge of Orchy, we reached the wilderness of Rannoch Moor. This immense, almost implausibly huge landscape is a never-ending expanse of peat bogs and lochans, surrounded by imposing mountain peaks.
On a grey day, it would be desperately bleak. However, we’d struck lucky with the weather, and Rannoch Moor looked striking against the backdrop of clear blue skies.
On this stretch, parking spaces were thin on the ground, and the first few spots we drove past were packed full. Just as we thought we’d missed our chance, we saw a space up ahead and swung in without hesitation. The silence – punctuated only by the occasional passing vehicle – was magical, with views to match the atmosphere.
After wandering down to one of the many lochans lying just off the road, we took one last look at the scenery before jumping back in the car. Next stop – Glencoe!
Driving through Glencoe on the A82
The landscape of Glencoe is one of the most spectacular on the planet. The first taster when approaching Glencoe from Loch Lomond is the dramatic peak of Buachaille Etive Mor, a stunning munro with a distinctive pyramid shape. When driving the A82, as soon as you glimpse ‘The Mor’, you know you’ve made it to a special place.
It wasn’t long before we spotted our first chance to stop, a short distance from the head of Glen Etive. This spot is famous as the location for ‘that’ James Bond scene with Daniel Craig and Judie Dench. On any given day, dozens of tourists will drive their cars down the single-track road to recreate the shot.
Truth be told, neither of us was particularly fussed. The swarm of cars sat on the narrow track, waiting for their turn, seemed at odds with the peaceful solitude of the surroundings.
We chose our own viewpoint to take in the scenery – and what a view indeed! Stretched out ahead of us was Glencoe in all its glory, highlighted against a perfect blue sky dotted with fluffy white clouds. The A82 cuts right through, clinging to the low levels, crossing waterfalls and dodging great hulking rocks.
Admiring the Three Sisters of Glencoe
A little further down from our vantage point were the famous “Three Sisters“. These surreal slabs of mountain look as if they’ve been sculpted to be an intimidating welcome party for hikers and climbers venturing into the wilderness beyond.
One favourite hike is the “Lost Valley“, steeped in history as the hidden spot where the Clan Macdonald hid cattle they’d stolen from their rivals! You can find the Lost Valley via a short but tough walk from the A82.
There are several small car parks along this stretch if you’re heading hiking or just taking in the views. Each has its own unique view of the Three Sisters. Our tip would be to arrive early and take any space you can get.
Each car park was full when we drove past in the early afternoon. For us, this was OK – we’d be returning for a proper hike the next day. However, not everyone has the luxury of knowing they’d be heading back to try again!
Read more: The best things to do in Fort William without a car
Beyond Glencoe and onwards to Fort William
Once we’d waved goodbye to Glencoe valley, the final stretch of the A82 to Fort William was relatively straightforward. After a few minutes, we drove through Glencoe village – a small settlement steeped in clan history. Perched on the shores of Loch Leven, it’s often used as a base for hikers and climbers looking for accommodation in the heart of the mountains.
A little while after crossing the bridge over Loch Leven, we came to the tiny fishing village of Corran. This is home to the Corran Ferry, which crosses a minuscule stretch of water at the head of h. The journey on the ferry takes just 5 minutes but saves well over an hour of driving. It is a vital lifeline for the communities living on the Ardnamurchan peninsula and the Isle of Mull.
As we drove past, the ferry was mid-journey – packed full of vehicles, with plenty more queuing for the next crossing. We sped onwards, and the crossing began to disappear from view. Ahead of us, a new landmark was starting to make an appearance.
Arriving at Fort William
It doesn’t take long to realise that you’re approaching Fort William. As we continued down the A82, skirting the shores of Loch Linnhe, the huge summit of Ben Nevis emerged over the trees.
‘The Ben’, as it’s known, stands at 1,345 meters above sea level. It towers over Fort William and is extremely popular among both casual walkers and serious mountaineers. Routes range from the standard ‘tourist’ trail – no walk in the park, despite its misleading name – to intense climbs up the cliffs of the famous north face.
A day on the mountain looked like an enticing prospect as we reached the outskirts of Fort William. Here, the final stretch of the A82 is flanked by a seemingly never-ending line of B&Bs, each invariably named after either Loch Linnhe or Ben Nevis. There’s certainly no shortage of accommodation in the town, but we were heading slightly further afield, to the little village of Banavie.
Banavie, too, sits in the shadow of Ben Nevis and is a lovely place to stop. This would be our base for two nights as we explored more of the local area – from Glencoe to the coastal villages. It was late afternoon by the time we arrived, managing to unpack in time to enjoy a fantastic sunset over the mountains before retiring to flick back through the photos of our drive.
The A82 doesn’t end at Fort William!
Although we’d be ending our leg of the A82 journey here at Fort William, this is by no means the final stop on the road! We could easily have carried on further, and the A82 will ultimately take you all the way to Inverness, in Scotland’s North East.
On its way to Inverness, the A82 heads straight up the famous shores of Loch Ness and through more wonderful Highland scenery. No doubt we’ll be back at some point to explore more of the route.
Read Next
- Two Tickets To Loch Lomond – featuring wallabies, torpedoes and misty mountains
- Climbing Ben Macdui and Cairn Gorm – more misty mountain climbing in Scotland
- Exploring the magical Isle of Skye